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Discussion Starter #1
Filled the tank and added Injector Cleaner + Octane booster, now I have a horrible missing that is killing me. Tried to dilute the gas with extra 5 gals of super grade fuel still doing it. Any ideas short of emptying the tank??
Please help:shock::shock:
Tks
Lou, II
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Filled the tank and added Injector Cleaner + Octane booster, now I have a horrible missing that is killing me. Tried to dilute the gas with extra 5 gals of super grade fuel still doing it. Any ideas short of emptying the tank??
Please help:shock::shock:
Tks
Lou, II
Now I am getting a po 506 code gas level sensor and cannot get the car started. NOT HAPPY I think I have committed a serious mistake and should have left well enough alone!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What do you mean by this? If what you saying is did I take them out and clean them...no I have not. Did I damaged them I don't know. do you know how to drain the gas tank so I can get rid if this crappy gas?
Tks
Lou
 

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Remove the access panel and siphon from there. THe tank has two "compartments" so be sure to siphon both. You can also place a temp hose on the fuel pump and pump it out. DO NOT let the pump run dry as it will burn out quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Remove the access panel and siphon from there. THe tank has two "compartments" so be sure to siphon both. You can also place a temp hose on the fuel pump and pump it out. DO NOT let the pump run dry as it will burn out quickly.
Sorry but I am new at this, where are the access panels? to put a temp hose on the fuel pump that will require the key on but doesn't it stops automatically when the car does not start?
 

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Directions and pictures are in RAVE. See the FAQ stickie above.
 

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Regarding the plugs I was wondering if whatever you added to the fuel fried the spark plugs. That's the only electric related thing I can thing of that is touched by the fuel. If it's not that then it must be fuel related like plugged up filter, or injector issue. BTW you might want to change the oil after you flush that stuff out of the truck as I have read injector cleaners can be nasty oil contaminators.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Spark plugs will be ok, repeated use of injector cleaner will dilute the engine oil, one treatment won't harm it, these engines are designed to run on very low octane fuel, they have 8 knock sensors and were made to run on poor fuel because of the areas they are sold in, so it's a waste of time using octane booster... The access panels for the tank are under the rear seat, be very careful taking them off and ensure they are sealed well on fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Pete I will let you know how I make out siphoning this crap out of the tanks.
Any particular order I must follow in the disassembly process?
Lou
 

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I know it's a bit late, but I read a Notice on TOPIX last week that specifically stated not to use Fuel System conditioners not approved by Land Rover as they had been having problems and that all warranty claims would be denied.

The Land Rover approved PN is LRN5010.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey ALL:
After several hrs of work I was able to open up the tank access port (LH side) gingerly removed the top of the port and access the tank. I must say draining the tank was a less than appealing chore I was bit uncomfortable with 25 gals of gas open inside the truck.

The tricky part was getting the drain hose to the RH side of the tank . In 32 degree weather the drain hose was too hard to handle so we had to heated up and make it pliable. Finally we got the tank fully drained and with 5 gals of fresh high octane clean fuel we got the truck started. It took more than 3-4 cranks to get it going. I filled tank up to the brim after button it up all the way. BTW I did get a new seal for the port $15.00 at LR. The car is purring like a kitten again thanks God!!!`)`)

The taking out of the seats is work out, heavy mothers, but it was done. Here is the kicker, I put half of the gas in my wife's Navigator and it didn't even feel it, took it like a FORD engine.
I want to thank you all the guys in the forum who sent out the suggestions!!
Cheers
Lou, II
 

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Glad you got it sorted and well done on doing it yourself...

Now... Follow the golden rule....

If it ain't broke.... Don't fix it...! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys sorry to report that the problem is back. Today after running like a charm for about 40 minutes the misfire returned, head back home where the car died at my driveway and would not start.
Tried to start the car repeatedly, however it sounded as if it was flooded and would not start. Finally gave me a PO 171 code "bank too lean" which leads me to believe that something is still clogging the injectors, if it was the MAF it would give me that code. I am going to change the gas filter. If anyone has a better suggestion pleas chime in I am open to all suggestions. Very frustrating after all the work done yesterday.:crybaby2:
tks
Lou, II
 

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Discussion Starter #17
.This is where I am now. Today 11-28-14 I added 20 oz of Chevron Techron injector cleaner to 23 gals of 93 octane nothing happening yet. Cannot get the car to start.
tks
Lou, II
 

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What I am not seeing in all this, and your duplicate postings in the P38 section, are your covering the basics. When not starting have you verified a nice clean spark? Are you sure your fuel pump is 100% operational? Now that you have crankedfor awhile are your plugs saturated and your cylinders flooded?

Obviously dumping more and more additives is NOT going to help the issue.
 

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Agree with RRToadHall You should at least get an idea of fuel rail pressure (Easiest job to do diagnostic wise on a P38) and confirm pump is ok, if its okay check the spark plugs, putting stronger concentrates of injector cleaner doesn't sound like your going to alleviate the fault. These cleaners are designed to remove tiny tiny particles of dirt to help clean up the spray pattern from the nozzle, if your car won't start there is a lot more wrong with the engine than a faulty spray pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What I am not seeing in all this, and your duplicate postings in the P38 section, are your covering the basics. When not starting have you verified a nice clean spark? Are you sure your fuel pump is 100% operational? Now that you have crankedfor awhile are your plugs saturated and your cylinders flooded?

Obviously dumping more and more additives is NOT going to help the issue.
Well:
I was able to start the car for over 25 minutes running well and basically not misfire, this gave me an indication that the fuel pressure and plugs were fine. No I have not removed the plugs nor have I checked the fuel pressure. My question is why when I shift into drive it will eventually die. The idea of the techron was urged by an auto-mechanic instructor who swears by this product. After reading over 100 reviews I was pretty convince that this could clean up any left over residue that could be clogging the lines/filter/injectors. I also got the filter delivered which I will install very soon. When you say that the cylinders are flooded, are you referring to gas flooding. I am a bit confused by this, I can understand this happening to a carb equipped car but not one with fuel injection I don't even touch the accelerator pedal when starting the car???? Nor does the car smells as gas flooding.
Please forgive my lack of expertise and maybe my dumb questions
tks
Lou
 
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