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F29 is the EAS fuse in the Bosch box. Now to find a sub for F35...RAVE says F5 and F16 arent used, but I don't know if they switch on with the ignition. I'll check tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
From a PM

After researching my EAS "soft failure" twice in 90 degree heat over the last 2 days, I am wondering which is the better place to start,

replaced my airsprings with Arnott gen III's, rebuilt compressor. My system has no leaks, and has never had any EAS problems,

recurring fault code = "Pressure switch not changing state" as reported ny my eas kicker. It fails to the high position, with the associated flashing lights on the height selector and a brief EAS fault msg.

After much searching and reading, where should I begin? Replace the pressure switch or do the "Brush box" mod. (I'm sure your familiar but here is the link to the brush box repair http://www.falconworks.net/eas/Brushbox.htm) or what do you reccomend?
Neither...

If the pump doesn't rattle at the brush end, it doesn't need the brush box mod/repair (yet).

If the pump cycles normally the pressure switch is fine (very robust units, never seen a bad one, I have several used available)

the "pressure switch not changing state" fault is typically a red herring, the actual issue is a failing driver module (assuming your compressor is in good shape). The ECU logic isn't very sophisticated so will grab the first fault code that meets the criteria programmed in. Pressure switch faults are almost always a driver module failure. the drivers are affected by heat, worse when they are starting to fail, so the warm days could have an connection to the faults coming up.
 

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Re: EAS compressor not starting

OK so I thought I would install one of those EAS bypass kits just in case mine failed somewhere at sometime.
Bloody brilliant I might add and works a treat but.....

History – My system was working fine before installation maybe a little slow to rise but hard to tell. Certainly I had checked it by pulling the relay under the LHS seat next to the EAS controller and NO deflating over a two day period.

Added the EAS bypass and tested by pulling the relay again. The car stays up and level for several days so as far as I am concerned there is NO leaks from the valve block side to the bags. Sprayed all connections with soapy water and no sign of leaks.

Now my problem is the EAS compressor doesn’t seem to want to start? The only thing I have touched is the relay and the airlines. Bloody coincidence.

I checked the faults using Storey Wilson’s software (none) and can manually activate the compressor using the same software. Fills the tank in 5- 10min to around 140 PSI so from that perspective I believe the compressor is working. I have checked the relevant fuses but not the relay but given I can manually turn it on using the software which I believe is akin to manually jumping the connections electrically the system should be fine?

I have checked the thermal cutout switch for continuity and that seems fine!
What next?

I guess it could be the drive box or the EAS controller or the pressure switch?

My thought is the pressure switch might have failed and therefore not kicking the compressor back in when it gets below 110 PSI like it should. With a full take of air the suspension will fill to HIGH mode but drain down to around 50 PSI in the process and the compressor doesn’t kick in during that process.

When I turn the key to position 2 I can hear the compressor kick in for less than a second but then nothing . As said above can then manually start it with the software and away she goes fine and dandy.

I also read somewhere about the brushes causing a similar issue in the compressor but that doesn’t really make sense to me if the compressor runs fine using the software.

Desperate for ideas of what could be wrong and maybe instructions to test the pressure switch.

Only good thing is the EAS bypass works a treat but I would like my conventional EAS back.
 

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Hi!!

I change the diaphragm and the 3 orings from the non return valve (they are little used, the metal not only the orings :| ) and what a difference, almost one year after I bought the RR, I have the "flying carpet" ride, and with not 100% shocks.

But 1000 kms after, now I still have some problems and the ride is now a little more harsher :( like it was before.
So what´s wrong?
1. The car sometimes run little "high", but when I stop the engine, he goes to the +- correct position??? any ideas?
2. Sometimes also the entire right is more up then the left.

Can my problem be from the EAS Ecu? From the man site
Sensor Out of Range
Some owners have reported the fault condition appearing after replacing the shocks or even jacking the vehicle up on a lift -- presumably the problem here is the axles moving outside the normal range causing a "sensor out of range" signal. If you are replacing the shocks, it might be advisable to disable the EAS and be careful not to move the axles to extreme positions. Another possible cause of this signal is a bad EAS ECU -- in 1998 thre was a Technical Service Bulletin, number 0007, "INCONSISTENT RIDE HEIGHT - ELECTRONIC AIR SUSPENSION (EAS)", admitting that bad ECUs were interpreting valid height sensor signals as outside range. The affected vehicles were in the VIN number range from VA 346794 to WA 409701. The remedy was to replace the ECU (part number RQT100040).
mine is a MY99 with VIN XA 415??? I check the values from the height sensor and they look ok!!

But the good news is that the dance in the lights stop :thumb:

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Jos Geuze said:
Hi

Some strange problem exists with my EAS at the moment.

During the time the car is parked it will gradually lower the car to the bump stops. At first I tought a leaking spring, air line or valve block but could not find any leak. Reservoir pressure remains at 10 bar.
Then I took out the eas timer 15 minutes after the car was parked and cooled down. The next morning the car was at the same height as when I left it with the timer unplugged. Plugged the relay back in and read and cleared the fault codes and all was well for the day but the next day again lowered car overnight.
Checked the ECU memory: No faults.

Because of this behavior every morning we have to give time to the EAS system to pump back the pressure into the tank. The moment you start it will self level and the car comes up but there is not enough air pressure to lift it up completly (The tank pressure drops from 10 to 5 bar) and the light keeps blinking. If you open a door and wait for the compressor to refill the tank to 10 bar the car self levels and all problems are gone for that day. It looks like the springs are completly deflating overnight without any pressure left in them.

Anybody came across this behavior? What did you do to solve this problem?

Regards

Jos

Height sensor calibration, you've got one or more that the values have changed (will happen over time, normal age) or is dying. It will lower itself to find level, and keep going down till to access. if the value for access height is BELOW the value the bumpstops are actually at, it will continue to release air trying to get it down untill there is no air left.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Just found a new trick for getting tough pistons off, remove the motor end, and the motor housing (magnets). leave the allen key in the counterweight to prevent it from turning, then turn the motor shaft by hand to spin the shaft inside the piston counterweight. Once the "gunk" is twisted free, it'll come right off.
 

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New Valve block Problems identified:

about 12m ago invested in a new valve block (from AirBag Man) because the solenoids in the original were shot...

New Symptoms:
1.the dreaded front end traffic light dance and constant compressor operation began in ernest recently.
Relay #20 OK etc etc, had already removed offending thrust washer from compressor motor several months ago (Ref Falconworks fix)
2. Losing height (50-70mm) over night...
3. Pulled delay timer and totally isolated valveblock with ballcock valves in the bypass system. Result: vehicle maintained height within 3mm for a week! :D
4. No sign of external air leak from valve block (ballcocks open, delay timer reinserted etc)
TOTALLY FRUSTRATED...
Thanks to all for hints in other posts re. the three non-return valves... so,, on a hunch:

5. Removed valve block yesterday afternoon and opened up non-return valve section only.
6. Examined valve seats and o-rings minutely with high power mag glass in Swiss Army knife (Magiver eat your heart out :lol: )
RESULT: seating contact surface of o-rings appeared coated/=contaminated? with a silvery substance. Non contact surface very clean..
Didn't have heart to open my brand new set of o-rings from Dennis, so removed existing rings and refitted them upside down... cleaned mating surface with cotton bud dipped in disc brake cleaner...
7. Reassembled valve block and went on 40km drive...
8. compressor filled totally depleted tank in 7 mins 22 secs, minimal compressor operation during drive.
9. Measured heights last night, again midday today and tonight... less that 1 mm difference :shock:
Lessons Learned: Beware the dreaded non-return valves :!: :clap:
 

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I had a p38 in yesterday, almost on its bump stops with a hard fault.

Put it on T4, said FL valve stuck closed, FL and FR incorrect signal. Ran some more tests and found the compressor was not adequate, so I replaced the compressor. Did a leak check on valve block, drier and collets + lower airspings. Checked air tank and lines and had a quick wiggle of the four height sensors. Everything appeared well. The valve block exhaust silencer had gone hard and white power was deposited around the external black plastic EAS box, next to the exhaust. It was slightly resisting exhausting air, and to check the inside, I ran the dump tank fuction on T4 and noted any internal contaminant blowing out of the valve block without the old exhaust silencer, but there was none. I replaced it with a new one.

Then I ran the car on the ramp to check it was happy. Problem is that in normal height, the front raises slightly, then lowers again to correct itself. It's only about 1cm up and then down pretty much every cycle (30 seconds?), but I'm not happy with that. It is both front left and right, so I'd be suprised if it was as simple as height sensors. :think:

Any advice or past experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
does it rise with the compressor on, then shut off the comp to lower? if so the non-return valves in the block are leaking by, causing "the dance". Check by running the compressor with a door open, it will slowly rise, then shut the door, it should stop the comp, lower and restart the compressor until the tank is full.

The powder is most likely the desiccant, which may have gummed up/destroyed the seals on the NRV's. If you're going to pull the block, may as well do the full rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
to stay in extended height, either the compressor is running too much (relay 20 stuck) or the diaphragm is stuck, OR the shop mixed up the solenoids, and the exhaust is on the inlet. either way DIY, you don't have to be an expert to work on these, how else can you become an expert?

if the comrpessor won't run automatically, the thermal switch is likely bad.
 

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I am going to go for the Arnott Industries Gen lll airsprings, a little more than the Gen ll but if I am going to spend the money might as well get the best.. Arnott has them throught amazon for $738 all round or the front pair for $358 and the rear pair $381, that is the cheapest i have seen them anywhere so far.
This website rangerovers,net has different pages for parst etc. and where to get them. try the links below
Aynsley
tp://www.amazon.com/1995-ROVER-RANGE-SU ... 953&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/1995-ROVER-RANGE- ... 953&sr=8-6
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I didn't realize they had them on Amazon, I'll match that price for RR.net members, and a portion of the sales go directly to RR.net for advertising fees...
 

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Discussion Starter #54
New one! This took a couple weeks to figure-out. Long distance troubleshooting is a PITA sometimes.

initially, the rover won't lower- typically relay 20 stuck, nope - new relay, no relay, manual, won't go down.
Turns out the exhaust muffler was completely plugged.

Installed rebuilt block, all was well for 2 days, then started leaking out the diaphragm (wtf? failed diaphragm maybe?)

Another rebuilt block put in, works fine for 2 days then leaks out the diaphragm again.....3rd block sent out, then the 1st arrives here- diaphragm full of desiccant :evil: :evil: :evil: - moral of the story, check your air dryer!

There are 2 felt filters that hold the desiccant in, if they've failed the desiccant will travel through the system and get stuck in the diaphragm or other valves, which will prevent proper sealing.

The exhaust muffler was plugged up with dust from the desiccant, it had gotten wet from road-spray (I assume) and turned into a rock..
 

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For what its worth (Tons I say)

When re-sealing the EAS valve block you may aswell replace the Diaphragm, over time the rubber shrinks ever so slightly but its enough for it to leak. (I keep at least 30 of these in stock at any time and every valve block gets a new one regardless of condition)

The first 2 valves, (Top, front to rear) rubber tips must be soft, if not you will encounter further problems as they do not seal correctly, these are becomming a problem as they are not available loose but working on a solution, best route so far is to have new tips manufactured.

The reason why the stem sealing ring is square is from pressure when assembled, over time heat and pressure will deform a round O ring into a square ring, this is normal and round O rings are perfect.

The multi plug conections within the EAS box will benefit with a squirt of contact cleaner to mmmm clean connections, remember that time and heat have effects on these connections, tarnish is one of them which is resistive.
The connector on the EASC ECU under the seat to can be removed and a squirt of cleaner applied.

You may think you have good eye sight but using a magnifying glass is king when working with anything small like the the components on the EAS valve block.

The end cover O rings where the NRVs are located must be assembled dry. Other O rings through out can be assembled using either a smidget of oetroleum jelly or silicone grease/paste.

Metric O rings seem to fit best and are ever so slightly thicker than imperial.

I will shortly be updating my blog with full details on how to replace the rubber tips on the 4 valves that control inflation/deflation of the air bellows.

Relocation development of the EAS system is now finally under way, lots of detailed info and testing was carried out to detrmine a potential faults that could arise.

Till later
 

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Hi Dennis - Need some input from you here.

I've replaced most of my EAS. It has had a new valve block about 4 years ago with a new drier unit. It's had airsprings done about 2 years ago. It has had new height sensors, compressor and a driver box about 5 months ago and was calibrated with T4 and the blocks.

However, it still feels like it shifts around on the highway. I can feel the front and rear adjust and you get that feeling through the steering wheel when it does drop. I always drive it locked in standard height, and there is no indication of a change in height on the LED's. T4 shows no fault codes.

Any suggestions from your experiences with the p38 EAS?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Dancing is (typically) one of two things:

Non return valves
Sensors

To check the NRV's, let it idle with the door open and compressor running, if the front end dances, then it's the NRV's, possible on a new-ish block. Not likely but possible

If she doesn't dance in the driveway it's likely the sensors, if the calibration is good when static, it could be a bad-spot away from the calibration area, or a loose sensor joint or suspension bushings causing the sensors to read funny.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Finally figured out what the plastic ring in the end-bell is for. It holds the brushes apart for assembly!

I thought it was a part of the bearing, but re-doing one thisafternoon, I noticed it fit neatly in the hole in the PCB...

It kept dropping when I tried to set the brushes against it, so I wedged it up with 2 small screwdrivers, carefully removed them and the endbell went right on, maybe 3 seconds!



Endbell by shupack, on Flickr
 

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Hi All,

may thanks for all the posts in this forum. It is a gold mine.

I have, however, a couple of issues I'd really appreciate some feedback on... The story so far….

I got a valve block kit from Shupack a while back and as the front was dancing like a drunken student, I decided at the weekend to make the changes.. After some initial nervousness I found the instructions on this site to be right on the money and taking the process slowly, worked finished in a few hours on Saturday…

After returning the block to the car and fixing a couple of small leaks I connected the FaultMate to do some final checks (something I should have done in the first place)…

The car came up fine, apparently…

I noticed there was a sensor out of range alert on the right rear height sensor. Looking at the numbers, it was indeed jumping around.

After another read through all 13 pages of the posts here I swapped the height sensors across the back. (I have a ’99 HSE with all round Arnott GenIIIs). Removing them was a challenge as my copy of RAVE has the old sensors in it that unscrew. It took me a while to work out the new ones were a push fit and a while longer to gently pry them from the rubber mountings

Initially it seemed to work but the sensor (now on the opposite side) is, again, jumping around and the truck takes on a rather unattractive tilt when on high… I tried messing with the settings but the sensor won’t play ball…

I have removed the valve block again and remade all the external connectors to be sure. My soapy spray tells me there are no leaks

I now have a couple of symptoms…

Sensor Failure.. I have ordered a couple of new sensors from Island 4x4 (thanks guys for the quick turn around) and will fit them when the arrive…

Rear Drop… The rear of the truck is dropping to the stops when the engine is off… This happens even if I remove the Delay Timer. The Front stays up with the timer out but drops (I assume due to auto levelling) with the timer in. The reservoir empties with the timer in also.

So, to my questions….

1) From the posts I am assuming I’ve got a leak to the rear… Is there anything in the valve block I could have screwed up which would cause this across both back springs…
2) Is there something else that could be causing this drop even with the delay timer out that isn’t a leak?
3) Is it plausible that I have caused leaks at the rear in both springs when I swapped the sensors… like popping the bags off the shaft or something

I suppose I am worried I have done something bad in the valve block that is causing a leak through some common valve

Sorry for the long post. I try and tell my wife this detailed stuff but she glazes over so I needed an outlet ?

Jaitt
 
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