valve block rebuild instructionsGavin said:Can anyone post a link to rebuilding the valve block. A while ago i was having a few problems and i replaced the compressor bought a valve block rebuild kit from Rover Renovations. I have no external leaks but after the car is parked for a while the front rises and sometimes the rear passenger side lowers, so i am presuming i have put the valve block together wrong.
The front end dance is typically leaky non-return valves, it could be a bad sensor though. a session on a Rovacom will confirm a bad sensor. If it's rising with the compressor on, then stops the comp to lower, then comp starts and rises again, open a door to inhibit leveling, wait for the comp to stop and see if it continues to dance.996TURBO said:Hi Dennis,
As you may know i've rebuilt many valve blocks.
One that i rebuilt 6 months ago is causing me some troubles.
Owner is encountering the front springs slow dance.
If read you well, this is due to leaky non return valves?
Can it be something else like worn height sensors?
Stevemfr said:Mmmm - auto-level is on all the time and has nothing to do with only leveling for leaks. Read up on the main site - there is a cute story about a RR auto-leveling down on to a cooler left under a RR parked on uneven ground overnight while camping :roll: which is the other prob - auto-leveling seem to try for the lowest common denominator. It chooses the lowest corner and lowers to try to level around that value (but is limited to max correction levels for each session). So, after a night, the RR may be lower - depending on whether all 4 corners remained relatively equal all night (for whatever reason: leak, temp change, or other) - and may or may not be level - depending on whether or not there was sufficient time for enough auto-leveling sessions for the higher corners to 'catch-up' to the lower. The proper way to check for leaks is to remove the EAS delay timer (read up!) and leave the car sitting overnight. That way, the valve block gets no signals, does not try to auto-level (no the lock switch does not inhibit auto-leveling), and only the corner(s) with leaks will drop - assuming a good valve block.
Please take the time to download the RAVE manuals, read up on the EAS, and then go to the main site and read up on the EAS there as well. It'll take you about an hour to do, but it will stop all this silly speculation.
After reading through this thread, here's what I see as some misconceptions and my take:
- on the ride height indicator, a solid light is where your at and a blinking light is where the EAS is trying to go. Any more than a couple of seconds of blinking indicates a prob - usually a worn compressor not providing enough air
- an air spring will not unseat and reseat itself while parked
- I can only imagine that the rapid dropping in your initial post went through the valve block as your EAS is now (semi-) working and leaks don't magically reseal themselves. Whether the cause is electrical or mechanical, you'll have to find out.
- you nearly certainly have a worn compressor.
What I would do in your shoes:
- unplug the EAS timer and leave the car sitting overnight/longer. Check for leaks with soap water at the bad corner
- order a compressor rebuild kit and probably a valve-block rebuild kit from Dennis (shupack)
- repair whatever else leaks (soap water)
- buy an EAS buddy or download the free EAS SW from Storey and check for faults
I'd be willing to speculate that a new compressor seal will temporarily solve most of your probs - you'll be wearing the new seal quickly tho as the compressor compensates for leaks.
Sorry if I seem a little short tempered, I am trying to help but it's frustrating watching all this silly back and forth where a real solution is right here and within your grasp.
pressure relief pops at about 200 psi, it will be a shotgun blast of air. your symptoms are exactly what happens when the non-return valves leak by (the 3 little spring loaded valves inside the blocks..)Kancler said:can someone explain me how Pressure Relief Valve works, cose im desperate, i just did valve block, bus still i got the same problem, pup works allmoust constantly, its just shut off after that front gose a little bit up, then some minor corectionson hights and compresor kick in again, and all this goes non stop, if ill shut of pup by the program from laptom, every thing is ok, but if all runs on auto, it comes back again, i did reserc and found Pressure Relief Valve failjure can lead to sistem not reach the presure
plzzzz i need advaice, couse im desperate
thanx in advance
996TURBO said:Interesting, i have similar issues : random activity of a rebuilt compressor.
I do have the gauge kit to track any loss at the air tank.
This thing kicks for no reason at 140 psi to fill to the max instead of waiting for the low psi limit which is i believe 110
I have designed and manufactured and installed a bypass cable, to disable the autoleveling "feature" on the P38 Rangies - Its a godsend !!!! Costs about $1.75, takes 20 seconds to install and reduces EAS faults by 90% (assuming you dont have a fault already!!!!)
Much of the EAS valve switching, clicks, clacks, pump running, wheel dancing etc etc are some design gurus idea of a cool feature - alias "crap".
We drive our rangies on average 5% of the day but the EAS is operational 24 hours a day to make the rangie look "cute" - You guessed it I'm a cynical fellow !
The enclosed document provides details for the cable and mugshots
What does it do!
Pretty simple really - It turns the EAS system on when the ignition is on and off when the ignition is off!!!! - (Bit like a thermos flask) The cable picks up +12v power from a spare fuse position in the fuse box and uses that supply, instead of the always on power supply.
Read the docy and you will understand - If you dont search - EBAY for a "Rangie EAS Bypass Cable" kit - It comes with cable, labels, terminals and install instructions fitted all ready to install. You can get your garage or sparkie to make you one - PLEASE LABEL THE FUSEBOX and CABLE if you make your own as most garages wont know its there and you will pay em to find it!!!!!!!
Big Photos at
If you make and install your own cable - Donations towards more Rangie innovations will be gladly accepted via paypal ([email protected])
(I have automatic headlights (another wonderful P38 design guru feature ...!) complete with headlights off during starting too !!!! installed on my truck.)