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Test drove several L322 rovers and even gotten a few of them inspected. Ended up not buying them due to timing chain issues or they were not mechanically up to my standards.

I originally was looking for low mileage 2011-2012 L332s with under 80k, but felt they were overpriced considering most of them were due for a timing chain replacement or needed replacement.

Talking with a few LR shops in the area, I’ve been told that the timing chains need to be replaced anywhere from 80-120k miles.

Is it better to buy a low mileage rover (under 80k miles) or buy a higher mileage RR, 120k+ miles and use that savings to replace the timing chain and other common issues?

What mileage is considered too high? I’d expect to eventually replace the chain, water pump, all fluids, but I’d like to enjoy it a little before I start dropping dollars on repairs.

Feedback appreciated!
 

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I went low miles 60K. Timing chain is silent. Might have a some supercharger snout noise brewing. Anything rotating with a bearing is subject to that.

One problem that you won't hear much about is the ZF 6HP28 stator bushing wear. But it's out there and as common as a timing chain imo.

Had to pull my trans and did a rebuild. The stator bushing had worn to paper thin and oblong. I was getting the e-clutch dropping out when on the highway and low revs etc (gearbox fault).
After the trans rebuild, it shifts like factory new. However the build kit plastic bridge block cracked, so we have to pull it apart again (x2 :( ).
I have an aluminium (not plastic) part coming next week. Hopefully back on the road soon!

But factor into the price. 1 owner 2010 Autobiography with options & custom tint, no ACC - they were asking $25K CAD inspected, serviced, new tires and new brakes. Really nice shape. It got reduced to $23K... I offered 21K to keep $ for repairs. I knew the shop that did the inspection was just average (not a dealer).

I found the active suspension module was fried ($100 on ebay), new lift struts all-round, 12V socket fuses, I replaced the MAF's ($100) due to a small error bank1 vs bank2. Realigned the passenger door w/rattle - I could have taken back to body shop on that one. Here's a shot before I put the company wrap on it.
Transmission issue is a bit of puzzle. I talked with the PO and they didn't know about it. It's OK, as the rebuild shifts amazing.

293508



PS: I realise now that any big ride in that say over 100K km mark will have progressive transmission wear, eg my 2011 Audi A8 ZF 8 speed has some strange shifts at low revs, likely same sort of issue.
 

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I went low miles 60K. Timing chain is silent. Might have a some supercharger snout noise brewing. Anything rotating with a bearing is subject to that.

One problem that you won't hear much about is the ZF 6HP28 stator bushing wear. But it's out there and as common as a timing chain imo.

Had to pull my trans and did a rebuild. The stator bushing had worn to paper thin and oblong. I was getting the e-clutch dropping out when on the highway and low revs etc (gearbox fault).
After the trans rebuild, it shifts like factory new. However the build kit plastic bridge block cracked, so we have to pull it apart again (x2 :( ).
I have an aluminium (not plastic) part coming next week. Hopefully back on the road soon!

But factor into the price. 1 owner 2010 Autobiography with options & custom tint, no ACC - they were asking $25K CAD inspected, serviced, new tires and new brakes. Really nice shape. It got reduced to $23K... I offered 21K to keep $ for repairs. I knew the shop that did the inspection was just average (not a dealer).

I found the active suspension module was fried ($100 on ebay), new lift struts all-round, 12V socket fuses, I replaced the MAF's ($100) due to a small error bank1 vs bank2. Realigned the passenger door w/rattle - I could have taken back to body shop on that one. Here's a shot before I put the company wrap on it.
Transmission issue is a bit of puzzle. I talked with the PO and they didn't know about it. It's OK, as the rebuild shifts amazing.

View attachment 293508


PS: I realise now that any big ride in that say over 100K km mark will have progressive transmission wear, eg my 2011 Audi A8 ZF 8 speed has some strange shifts at low revs, likely same sort of issue.
If I posted a video, could you tell from that video if my timing chain was particularly noisy?


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I went low miles also at 62k miles. No timing chain issues so far, no codes, totally trouble fee with the exception of the CD player. I like having the latest L322 made and the 5.0SC is just a fantastic engine. When it either needs tensioners replaced or the supercharger needs rebuilding, I'll do both and call it a mid-life refresh. Factoring in this major repair and the cost of purchase, it still seems like a crazy value for such an awesome vehicle.
 

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I went low miles also at 62k miles. No timing chain issues so far, no codes, totally trouble fee with the exception of the CD player. I like having the latest L322 made and the 5.0SC is just a fantastic engine. When it either needs tensioners replaced or the supercharger needs rebuilding, I'll do both and call it a mid-life refresh. Factoring in this major repair and the cost of purchase, it still seems like a crazy value for such an awesome vehicle.
Add VelocityAP tune and pulley for extra fun. I did.


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If I posted a video, could you tell from that video if my timing chain was particularly noisy?
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If you can set the cam mic to music recording, might do a better job that just in normal. Otherwise it's too noisy to distinguish.
However, chain rattle will be loudest on a cold engine, right at start-up.
Oil pressure should support the guides and as the engine heats, the block expands so the chains can tighten more.

Theory - chain guides could last longer if :
1. highway miles, long trips @ steady speeds
2. small or easy rev changes with limited aggressive driving (stops chain from slapping around).
3. moderate climate/garage kept = no operating temp extremes.
 
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