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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was able to remove the top bolt but this bottom one is absolutely frozen. I was able to get the nut off the end but the bolt is frozen to the strut.

Tried the following:

  • Penetrating fluid/PB Blaster over the course of days/weeks
  • Breaker bar
  • Hammering it out from the opposite end
  • Heat from butane torch (I don't have a propane torch)
  • Wedging a screwdriver and trying to hammer it in between the bolt flange and the air strut to try to separate them.
  • I even tried changing the way I jacked the truck up, switching from the side jacking point to the front jacking point where both front wheels are off the ground, in case this was due to pressure/weight on the bolt.

I'm at my wit's end. This was supposed to be a straightforward job but I'm getting extremely frustrated.

Thanks all for any tips/tricks.

Automotive tire Bumper Electrical wiring Motor vehicle Fender

Automotive tire Wood Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Gas

Gas Electrical wiring Auto part Nut Wire
 

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2003 mk3 4.4L
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79 Posts
yeah, i feel your struggle... but i'm surprised you can't hammer it out (with a sacrificial nut on the end). My go to of last resort has been dry ice. if you try that, chill the bolt at both ends and then hammer from the end, and maybe breaker bar socket spin at the same time on the head.
 

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It looks like the bolt head is still in decent shape. I would get a 6 pt impact socket, an air impact wrench and try to get it to rotate. If you free it to spin, it will probably come out. I realize you may not have an air compressor and impact tool, maybe you can find one to rent. If you can't do that, you might try getting a buddy to apply torque on the socket with a cheater bar while you smack the bolt with a BFH. Failing that, you might have to take the driveshaft out, remove the hub and shock as a unit, then use a vice and spacer to push the bolt out. Not fun work, swearing helps, best to do when your wife is not around to hear what you are capable of saying.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My small butane torch wasn't able to turn the bolt red/glowing even after putting it on the bolt for a minute, so I'm thinking it's not hot enough. I might buy the below propane torch and try that.

 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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475 Posts
Follow @NorCal RR & @dfrhodes advice - Put a sacrificial nut on the end of it and use a BFH while you keep pressure on bolt with a breaker bar and 6pt socket. Use hearing protection too :)

If that doesn't do it, oxy+mapp torch will take care of it - They are available at various box stores and tractor supply stores.

on reassembly, use copper anti seize inside of knuckle to avoid this in the future.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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2,113 Posts
go get a tank of MAPP gas the yellow tank at the hardware store and a compressor and 1/2 inch impact gun heat the area then use the imp[act gun to go back and forth till the bolt moves then put a nut on the end of the bolt to hammer it out
 

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I had exactly the same issue, had to give in and take it to a garage, they had a pig of a job getting it out too, but it eventually freed off with a big impact wrench managing to break the seal, once it was turning it knocked out with a bit of persuasion.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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My small butane torch wasn't able to turn the bolt red/glowing even after putting it on the bolt for a minute, so I'm thinking it's not hot enough. I might buy the below propane torch and try that.

Heat needs to be applied to the fitting the bolt goes through, NOT to the bolt.

You’re doing it backwards. Heat is applied as necessary to the lower mount area to enlarge what the seized bolt slides into. Unless you have an acetylene torch, you’ll probably need to carefully apply a mapp gas flame to the hub’s mounting point to the strut for several minutes.

Be careful not to catch the brake hose or ABS sensor wiring with the flame.

As someone else already mentioned a high torque impact gun (1/2”) will help too.

Good luck,
Rob
 

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2012 Range Rover L322 AJ133 5.0L NA
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15 Posts
In the meantime, if you don't have immediate access to the proper type of torch, you could try jacking up that wheel hub to take some friction load off that bolt-strut connection. When replacing the strut, I believe you want to support the wheel hub anyway (via jack); otherwise, when removing the two large strut bolts, the hub can tip outboard >45° and pull the half-shaft out from the differential(!), a shocking sight for the uninitiated. Ask me how I know.

My left lower strut bolt was very hard to remove as well. Got it out by pounding with a BFH. I should have used a sacrificial nut on the end of the bolt as dfrhodes suggests.

It looks like you may have started to mushroom the end of that bolt, in which case its nut won't thread onto it (can test it now). Since these bolts tend to get stuck in the strut, might as well order new ones (KYG000031 bolt and KYH000051 flanged nut) and coat the shaft (but not the threads) with anti-seize. These bolts are a bit expensive as far as bolts go but cheap in the grand scheme.

If you're replacing the strut, remember to replace the RYF000141 Shock Retainer Ring (sealing washer). Also, the workshop manual says to discard the (QYH100271) nut for front stabilizer link, indicating, to me anyway, that it would be (or once was) a locknut. I replaced mine with a genuine LR part, but it was not a locknut. I decided to add a bit of locktite blue to it; this was probably unnecessary but it was a way for me to hedge my concern between what I read in the manual and what I saw in the actual replacement part.
 

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Key words here

BFH

1/2 impact drill 6 point socket. Air if you have 1560psi avail or ....great to hammer , go to Harbor freight and buy the impact tool thaey have. It is an awesome addition to any garage and you will use it EVERY time you deal with tires etc. You need power here and as said, unweight the hub a bit. Good luck and happy swearing!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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250 Posts
Any update? I'm doing this soon, too. I got my rover on ramps and will start bathing all the fasteners with Aerokroil while I wait for the supplies to replace my airbags.

It looks like you may have started to mushroom the end of that bolt, in which case its nut won't thread onto it (can test it now). Since these bolts tend to get stuck in the strut, might as well order new ones (KYG000031 bolt and KYH000051 flanged nut) and coat the shaft (but not the threads) with anti-seize. These bolts are a bit expensive as far as bolts go but cheap in the grand scheme.

If you're replacing the strut, remember to replace the RYF000141 Shock Retainer Ring (sealing washer). Also, the workshop manual says to discard the (QYH100271) nut for front stabilizer link, indicating, to me anyway, that it would be (or once was) a locknut. I replaced mine with a genuine LR part, but it was not a locknut. I decided to add a bit of locktite blue to it; this was probably unnecessary but it was a way for me to hedge my concern between what I read in the manual and what I saw in the actual replacement part.
Thanks for the great info with part numbers!!! I was about to order my Dunlop bags and saw the spring gasket as a suggested item to add, then I saw the strut bolts. I was about to post here on the forum to ask about those items and saw this thread. Very timely. Just to confirm, installing ONE new/refurbed strut will require:
  • 1 sealing washer RYF000141
  • Two bolts KYG000031
  • Two flanged nuts KYH000051
  • One stabilizer link nut QYH100271
Double the parts if doing both sides. Correct?

Looking forward to your responses fellas.
 

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2019 Range Rover Sport Supercharged
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19 Posts
I had the same issue. It took me 2 days to remove it. What you need to do it keep soaking it with pb blaster. Spray over/around the bolt and thru the opening of the bottom of the strut. Let it soak. Then I used a butane torch To add a little heat. Keep repeating this process for a day. then I used a 45 inch breaker bar. In the end I was cranking down so hard that I pulll the half shaft out . To avoid this make sure you have support under the strut. I had hammered the bolt in the beginning so I need a new bolt. So if you haven’t order one. I didn’t believe in the soaking process but it worked.

hope this helps
 

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2012 Range Rover L322 AJ133 5.0L NA
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...Just to confirm, installing ONE new/refurbed strut will require:
  • 1 sealing washer RYF000141
  • Two bolts KYG000031
  • Two flanged nuts KYH000051
  • One stabilizer link nut QYH100271
Yep. And you may want to pickup a can of Gibbs, which seems to work even better than Kroil and PB Blaster as a penetrating oil:
amzn.to/3LvQqzv

And a marine-grade, moisture-resistant anti-seize lube to coat the shaft, but not the threads, of the new strut bolts:
amzn.to/3FVbbDC
 

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I was able to remove the top bolt but this bottom one is absolutely frozen. I was able to get the nut off the end but the bolt is frozen to the strut.

Tried the following:

  • Penetrating fluid/PB Blaster over the course of days/weeks
  • Breaker bar
  • Hammering it out from the opposite end
  • Heat from butane torch (I don't have a propane torch)
  • Wedging a screwdriver and trying to hammer it in between the bolt flange and the air strut to try to separate them.
  • I even tried changing the way I jacked the truck up, switching from the side jacking point to the front jacking point where both front wheels are off the ground, in case this was due to pressure/weight on the bolt.

I'm at my wit's end. This was supposed to be a straightforward job but I'm getting extremely frustrated.

Thanks all for any tips/tricks.

View attachment 300875
View attachment 300874
View attachment 300873
I just did my front shocks and got the same frozen bolt. Let it soak in pb blaster overnight. My tire wench cross fit on the bolt. Then got a 6 foot cheater on the tire wrench and pushed and pulled until it popped and small amount. More pb plaster and repeat. Then my impact gun took it the rest of the way out.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I did have my choice of words with these bolts. Even with a pipe on the breaker bar was not helping me unbolt the nuts. So I bought the electric impact wrench at HarborFreigh


Still with my office clothes I couldn't resist testing the impact wrench, and it is an absolute brute. Took me minutes instead of hours. I'm sure it will make the bolt turn inside.

Good luck. Please post some pictures after you're done.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Yep. And you may want to pickup a can of Gibbs, which seems to work even better than Kroil and PB Blaster as a penetrating oil:
amzn.to/3LvQqzv

And a marine-grade, moisture-resistant anti-seize lube to coat the shaft, but not the threads, of the new strut bolts:
amzn.to/3FVbbDC
Thanks for the suggestions. Love my aerokroil and never tried the Gibbs stuff. But, both items are on order.
 

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I did have my choice of words with these bolts. Even with a pipe on the breaker bar was not helping me unbolt the nuts. So I bought the electric impact wrench at HarborFreigh

Just got home from (China) Harbor Freight, and browsed through the flyer they put in my bag for their "HUGE PARKING LOT SALE" coming up in early June, where it'll be on sale for $60. Not too shabby for a cheap Chinese tool, which is good enough for us occasional mechanics.
 

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I guess I'm a little old school when it comes to tools. I want every one I buy to be the last one of those I buy. I don't have any experience with this HF brand but they often have quality problems or much less power than the spec sheets say. I have a big heavy air compressor that's about 25 yrs old and will probably out live me. I need a good air compressor anyway. For common things like an air impact wrenches, $100 - $120 will get a solid Ingersol Rand air tool that will last a very long time. For less used tools, Craftsman air tools are pretty decent for cheap. Another benefit is air tools are typically smaller and fit in tighter spaces.
 
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