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Discussion Starter #1
I got my transfer case chain and seals from Atlantic British! What advise do you Gents have for me before I undertake this adventure? One main question...what type of transmission fluid to put in the case? I have read mixed results on the forum. Any other advise is appreciated.


thanks

charliet
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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go through and work according to the manual (RAVE) use Dexron III (3)

Yet to do one but been told can do in place...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply!

Dexron III--Cant find it. What are my alternatives?

Can do in place? I dont have to take the case out?


charliet
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Don't be surprised if you need new bearings when you get in there.

Yes...you need to remove the TC to replace the chain.

Not a bad idea to replace the viscous coupler while you're at it if you're planning on keeping the truck for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
kmag-
Dont be a "glass half empty" type of mechanic!

I'm going in with eyes wide closed (extremly tight)!

If I screw it up, I can always walk...

charliet
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You said it...I did not! You pull to much power in the forum for me to pi$$ you off!

By the way didnt you do it your self?


Me? ...Self gratification. I CAN DO IT. I just never have DONE IT. If I screw up...I'll ask you guys, my friends, some non frineds work on Maggie. If she doesnt work. Ill work some more; until she does. Its just mechanical, electrical & computer...how hard can that be (the phrase of death)?

My wife read the post (because i spend more time with you people than her) and she said i was screwed! But my 3 y/o is pyched; 5 y/o doesnt care!


charliet
 

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don't you have a Walmart in your city? Dexron III is the same transmission fluid used in G.M. transmissions. Just look at the fine print and it will say if it's for a Ford or G.M.. Don't mistake the two, Good luck,Big-T. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
HELP!

How the heck am i to get to the 6 bolts that hold the T-case to the tranny? I'v got just about everything else disconnected. Just like everything else on the rover...4 days to take the thing apart (while trying to figure it out) and it will be 1/4 time putting it back together. I can get a socket on the bolts but cant generate enough power to turn the darn things, and i sure as hell dont want to roundoff the heads.

Once i get the thing out, I can get going.

Any suggestions are appreciated...even the obnixious ones (i could use the humor at this point).
 

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well, you could give up like I would lol, and take it to a mechanic, j/k. However, for me that is out of the question, unless it is major. I don't need another person feeling up my rover :) . I would try an impact driver to get those pesky bolts off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I cant get to them. The four that i can get to did not take that much torque to brake loose. But the two on the top are a mother to get to. I can rig all sorts of u-joints and extensions to the to the bolts, but cant put enough a$$ behind it to brake them loose. I will continue on the project today. Not giving up yet.

charliet
 

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if possible, try applying heat to the head of the bolt using a hand-held propain torch.

just be carful not to burn/score anything while doing this.

i have not looked myself to see if this method is possible...it's Sunday...it's 7AM in Vancouver and i am doing another 12 hour shift...to tired to look :?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok. I have the t-case out and seperated.

How do i bypass LRT-51-003 (the one that restrains the drive flange according to RAVE)? Or... how do i get the chain off without doing this step?

My chian was (is since its not off) very streretched. It was not hitting the T-case makeing the noise. The chain was ridding up the gears, under stress, and slamming into gear. The gears are not worn, the bearing are smooth, there is a slight mark on the side of the case where the chain was hitting. The mark does not affect the performance of the T-case.

So, back to the question of the moment...how do i either bypass LRT-51-003 or remove the chain without this process?

THANKS,

charliet
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Chain is in, case is sealed and back together! I am tired and that thing is heavy. Here is what I did:

Removed the Circle-ring clip and the 8 bolts holding the gears in place. Removed the gears and old chain. Put the new chain on the gears and put it all back together. I did not have to mess with the oput seals. They were never touched. Whatever your religious preferences...pray for me. Tomorrow its going back in! I will post some pics later.

charliet
 

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Discussion Starter #17
She is alive! First off, the T-Box is heavy. I would not recommend dropping the thing on your leg or finger. It leaves cuts and bruises. Secondly, know how to use your transmission jack BEFORE you start trying to put a T-Box back in place. And lastly, have someone help you. Its a daunting task to undertake, but is fairly straight forward. Follow RAVE (except for a couple of steps). Its just a bunch of work.
I got the T-box back in, attached the multi-plugs, and bolted everything back in place. I drove around the neighborhood so proudly. I stopped at a stop sign...moved the gear selector slowly through the H-gate, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP it would not stop BEEPING! I threw it into LOW...NOTHING. No low. I drove back to the garage dejected. I ran to the computer and frantically searched on rr.net. None of my symptoms appeared. I looked at RAVE. I had a brain fart. I forgot one small multi-plug. Crawled under, felt her up a bit and she works perfectly. Moral of story...also follow RAVE when re-assembling. Now off to find an oil leak!

This project was a testament to the forum. Without you guys I would have never undertaken such a challenge. Thanks for all of your help and posts. :thumb:


charliet
 
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