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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I've had a problem with the EAS compressor constantly running.

4 New dunlop bags - same problem
new relay - same problem
swapped sensors - same problem
rebuilt valve block with used spare - same problem possibly leaking NRV's

I left the truck overnight with the door open, did not drop a centimeter.

took the compressor off to rebuild and took the best NRV's from the both blocks, air compressor puts out decent air, no air leaking out of the silencer but now the truck will not rise at all. I triple checked to make sure the NRV's were not put in backwards.

there are no leaks that i can hear or have been found with soapy water. There is air in the system as i get air escaping when i unplug the lines to pull the valve block once again. Swapped driver modules to no avail, the truck refuses to rise now no longer how long i let the compressor fill up the air tank.

I honestly have no idea what to look for now but im seriously considering the AB lift kit. Somebody please help!!!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Are we to assume you have an type specific diagnostic tool like a nano?
RSW?
If it goes into hard fault, you need to reset it before it will work.
Sounds like you have covered the bases tho'
I have diagnostic and am in the Bay area......
If you decide to throw in the towel, I have a nice spring conversion on the Borrego, and would love to swap for your new Dunlops to get Borrego back on EAS.....
Cheers!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, sorry should have mentioned that I have an EAS Buddy but not the full software. No codes being thrown yet.

I haven't thrown in the towel yet! but I might take you up on that offer, what kind of kit do you have? I'd be interested in a kit that would leave in the truck in the "Wade" Height permanently, as I did buy this truck to off-road.

I'm leaning towards the compressor not putting out enough air now....the compressor works but I can stop it with my finger. That said I've let the compressor build up pressure in the tank 8 minutes at a time, it still won't even get the truck to access height :(
 

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If it didn't drop when left with the door open, it is dropping because it is not parked level and is meant to do that. If you change the timer relay for a standard 4 pin one, it will inhibit self levelling the same as leaving a door open. You will need to put the timer relay back to connect with diagnostics though.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Put a pressure gauge on it so you can see what is going on. It sounds like your air compressor.
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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251 Posts
Don't give up! Chasing a slight leak myself. You need to isolate other parts of the system. Like dave mentioned, get some push to connect fittings and a schrader valve. Hook a pressure gauge to it to see if it's filling.

One thing I've done is to remove the line for the air tank at the valve block, hook a schrader valve to the line, fill up manually and see if you lose air. If so, pull out the soapy water and spray around the tank. You'll want to make sure you spray BOTH sides of the tank. Mine was leaking from the bolt that was meant to clear any water out from the tank.

Now, put a line with schrader valve in the air tank port on the valve block. Give it pressure with an shop air compressor (if you have one). I've actually had some success doing this with the valve block completely out of the truck. This way you can spray around the valves on the bottom of the block that you can't easily get to when in the truck. If the compressor is running constantly, there is a pretty significant leak somewhere. Don't forget to spray around the air dryer.

I've seen time and again of folks rebuilding a valve block and dismissing any chance that the didn't miss something small, or pinch an oring with re-installation. Don't give up! Keep breaking the system in half to isolate the problem.
 

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Second the pressure gauge, put it in the pipe to the air tank. This allows you to see what is happening.
 

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Yes, sorry should have mentioned that I have an EAS Buddy but not the full software. No codes being thrown yet.
You serious? the EAS "buddy" simply clears the codes. Clearing codes does not in any way fix any car issues.

Get proper diagnostic gear so you KNOW what is wrong not just hiding what is wrong. A standard OBDII scanner from the local national chain is only good for standard engine and maybe tranny codes.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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"I'm leaning towards the compressor not putting out enough air now....the compressor works but I can stop it with my finger. That said I've let the compressor build up pressure in the tank 8 minutes at a time, it still won't even get the truck to access height
"


You cannot hold the pressure from a properly working compressor "with your finger"......
Sounds like this is the root problem. Rebuild or replace compressor?
Not sure which kit I have.....Came with the Borrego......
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As a noob to the P38, but having mileage driving OR, on road, and towing with a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee and 2016 Cayenne, and spirited driving in an Audi S7 - airbags are more than worthwhile if you can get and keep them working properly. I even have added airbags for towing and rear leveling in a HD half ton truck. No doubt they would be maddening in failure.

This board seems to be heavy advocates of the EAS and more than knowledgeable about getting the system troubleshot and squared away properly. Good luck, hope you can get it figured out.

Would the rebuild o-ring kit for the valve block be worthwhile here or do you feel your replacement block is good to go?
 

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Missed the bit about being able to stop the compressor with your finger. That will be the problem, there's no way you can stop 150psi with your finger.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the replies guys!

The truck maintained its height after the valve block was rebuilt which leads me to believe its ok. I am aware of the self-leveling, again it didn't drop to its bumpstops when parked at home or at work, in either "wade" or standard heights. The truck's eas was fine except for a compressor that would run non-stop.

After I rebuilt this compressor is when the truck refused to rise, so I must have buggered something up.

Is there a reputable source for compressors? Also, where are you guys getting the shrader and pressure gauge connectors?

Thanks again!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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343 Posts
Yes. Second LR direct. I paid like $265.00 for a new one.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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256 Posts
Test it first. Do you have a foot bicycle pump?

Get a fitting with a Schrader valve that you can attach to the compressor's output line then clip the pump on to it; I seem to remember that a healthy compressor puts out about 220 PSI. That's what mine puts out after I rebuilt it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #19
So I pulled the compressor today.

The O ring had melted between the cylinder and the head of the pump, the new cylinder and the piston had little to no resistance. A piece of the reed valve had broken, there is also now a slight gash in the face of the cylinder, presumably from the reed valve.

Long story short, new compressor ordered from Island 4x4 $238 shipped to California.

Will post back with results!
 

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Nice. Do yourself a favor. Use a silver sharpie marker and write the date of the install in the compressor. I did this for mine and the fuse box and steering dampener etc etc. then if I lose my notes I still have a record and the next owner as well.
 
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