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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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277 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The life of a Land Rover owner is never dull.

Cautionary tale: Don't overlook the obvious!


Took both my Rovers in to have the window tint redone. This involved them steaming off the old tint and then of course using water to apply the new tint. I specifically chose a high end shop who had worked on hypercars and things for their gentle touch and experience. I also paid about $1100 per vehicle for their top of the line Xpel ceramic tint.

The MY06 went well, they did a good job and there was minimal damage to defroster wiring etc.

The MY12 however....let me share this story.

First off they do cover panels and take precautions to prevent water ingress into door panels or modules. Picked up the MY12 and the alarm started false alarming 20 minutes after arming. Upon closer inspection it was always increments of 10 minutes, 10, 20, 40 before the alarm would trigger.

Now before you all laugh at me for being dumb, in my defense the IIDTool does not show alarm triggers for the MY06. I had no idea I could pull them on the MY12....soooo this started the manual process of testing batteries, looking for system drains and really about 4 days of moderate hell. Swapped out a battery only to get a bad battery which complicated and confused the process even farther. My good friend who's a previous JLR tech wasn't returning my texts anymore, I was doomed to a life of forum hunting and wild goose chasing.

I hate to bother people with my challenges but I email Pat and humbly beg for his courtesy and feedback on this issue. I learn I can pull the alarm triggers and life briefly has purpose again. We get in and see the Left Rear door as the repeated trigger however I get no "Door Ajar" indicators and the alarm arms fine without a mislock alert. The obvious initial thought is a microswitch is going bad or as Pat suggested a short in the wiring. I bring up the window tint and water ingress concerns but at this time nobody feels that is a serious concern and could cause the problems.

Back to those wild geese:

  • I replaced the door switch and still failing (I know, don't say it, it was recommended by the dealer).
  • Started taking things apart to check for water ingress.
  • Read too many threads about canbus errors (forums are a blessing and a curse).
  • Read too many "it's your bonnet switch" threads.
  • Checked the resistance on the original switch, yeah it was fine all along.
  • Started panicking that water got into the CJB and I was about to shave kittens and corndog puppies in frustration.
  • Discovered the 3a drain on the system.
  • Noticed the faint flashing of the mirror/puddle LEDs in 10 sec intervals.
  • Noticed the LCD display backlight wouldn't totally go out and would be dark gray when still powered.
  • Thought twice about how sad shaved kittens would be. I love animals.
Now after all this drama, I finally look at the wiring diagrams for the doors. Canbus stops at the front door module and a single wire goes to the rear switches which act as slaves to the front door masters. There are 6 connections between the CJB and the rear doors. You can only check continuity between the CJB and front door, then front door and rear door which does make it easier.

I pull the drivers door.

280601


Yeah. That is no bueno.

280602


280603


UGH the panic that you feel when you think things are burnt.

280604




Pulled the module, cleaned it really good, sanded the pins and coated the entire board with a light coating of dielectric grease. Put everything back together and stuffed the back of the open plugs with dielectric grease.

Pulled the Passenger door and did the same just for poops and laughs.

Best we can tell the steamer is essentially a deionized water source and when that vapor gets into the door it accelerates corrosion on the contacts as it leaches minerals out of the metals. These modules are on the inside of the door panel and don't have weather proof plugs because they're within the interior. The tint shop did the right thing by covering the panels but it did little to prevent the steam from getting into the panel.

TL:DR Synopsis:

The vehicle couldn't fully shut down due to the corroded plug. It worked enough to not trigger door ajar but when the vehicle tried to shutdown (10 minute increments) it would fail and trigger the rear door alarm. Because this was an intermittent short (Pat was dead on!) it would keep cycling the shutdown process until it killed the battery with the 3-5a it uses during shutdown.

The LCD display being dimly backlight and the flashing puddle lights were an indicator of the issue with shutdown of the systems. The 10 minute timeframes were also an indicator that it was a process error and not just a random short because a wire is rubbing.

I know, I'm a dumbass. This is the very 1st thing I should have checked but I clearly like to punish myself.

Lessons learned:

1. Pack all open back plugs with dielectric grease in the boot, doors and anywhere water can get in.

2. Water got into everything, the boot, the dash, the door ( I asked him if he bathed in door panel, it was so bad).

3. Shameless IIDTool plug. Buy an IIDTool and send Patrick an L405 full of cash because he is one of the most patient and accommodating people in our community.


At the end of the day, I'm really grateful for both [email protected] and [email protected] diagnostics time and feedback. Neither of these folks are getting paid for helping me in this situation but they both offered a lot of time, humored my thoughts about the shutdown issues and ultimately helped me solve this without paying an arm or 2 legs (I feel arms are worth more than legs).
 
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That sounds like a nightmare. Thanks for sharing the journey all the way through finding the root cause. It'll surely help some of us sooner or later. And you made it very enjoyable to read!
(y)

Unrelated, but to be on the record, I don't like this new format of the forum!
(n)
 

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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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277 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Order your IIDTool directly from Gap Diagnostics would be my recommendation to ensure you get a proper unit.
 

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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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277 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That sounds like a nightmare. Thanks for sharing the journey all the way through finding the root cause. It'll surely help some of us sooner or later. And you made it very enjoyable to read!
(y)

Unrelated, but to be on the record, I don't like this new format of the forum!
(n)
Thanks for the kind words. The important thing we all initially overlooked were the shutdown issues, which had we noticed right away would have also expedited the resolve.

It is a new format?

Here I thought I was just a bit of a Muppet. Thought it was just me ?
 

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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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277 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE:
Been a few questions about how i see the live alarm triggers. I know you can see them on MY10-MY12 L322 using IIDTool but i don't think it's available om earlier years due to different core systems. I couldn't see this on the MY06.

Attached a few screenshots of the IIDTool menu. Hope this helps.

IIDTool > LIVE VALUES > COMPLETE LIST > BCM > select 1-8 last triggers then press "view".

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286625
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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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215 Posts
Great info! Sux you had to go through all that, but documenting your process will surely help someone.

So, do you think the tint installation triggered this issue? Or do you think perhaps it was the last straw...(hypothetically, water should have entered in the same places due to rain or carwashes)?
 
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