RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Identify these hoses for me.! While being under my Car looking at a transmission issue, I spotted these two hoses. Bottom line, what are they? story below

My AC isn't working, and it was in the shop ready to be repaired, but I have hesitated because I now question their ability to work on my Car; and a "$2800" bill. I immediately looked at them and, I am wondering could they be leaking AC hoses.! 2008 HSE; Has back-seat cooling Could it be oil spilled when being filled above.

282288
282289
282290
282291
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
994 Posts
I beleive those are the power steering return hoses that connect the reservoir to the steering gear thru the cooler pipe, do they go up under the radiator to a length of metal tubing bent in a "U" shape. One hose goes to the reservoir, the other comes from the steering gear, its all a one peice unit with the U shaped "cooler" tube in the middle. (Item 1). Some have a u shaped bend (<2006), some have the heat exchanger shown(>2006).
282292


Theres only one A/C line that runs down under the front end of the engine, I think its the larger diameter one in the lower left corner of your first picture, that looks like its running vertically (the clean one).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The bottom hose is going vertical. I think I will spray them tomorrow with gunk, to get the oil off and see if it returns. Steering is good but will check the oil level.

You are the man. I google like mad to get my own answers but can never find diagrams like that. I was a mechanic in England from 1975-1978, so I am a bit rusty.
282293
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
994 Posts
Heres the A/C lines. Probably just low on refrigerant, slow leak over time, maybe picked up a stone in the condensor and got a little hole. Need to check the pressure, and see whats what. These all come out of the 07-10 workshop manual (pdf) think theres a link to it in one of the main threads above in the L322 section
282294
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Guess I am buying a manual; I already have iLand; in for a penny! I brought the gages, but the pressure was nowhere near what they should have been, and the needle didn't move even at 2000 RPM. Unfortunately, the shop removed all the refrigerant. A "positive", was that the compressor was working when I went in. I am guessing its not now because the pressure isn't there to trip it. They want 2800 to fix; so I am getting a second opinion


282295
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
994 Posts
I gave you the wrong image of the A/C lines that one was for a TD6 diesel, this one is for the 4.2/4.4L gas engines. Basically the same thing, little different hose routing and a few less components.

282296


I certainly would get a second opinion at that price. About the only place there can be a blockage is at the thermostatic expansion valve (item 1 in the drawing) which is in the passenger side footwell behind the console side panel up against the firewall, unless the compressor has come apart and shed a bunch of metal into the condensor (item 6) and dryer (item 5) and plugged it up. Not a common occurance on these Sanden compressors but it can occur and thats a very expensive thing to fix because you have to get all those little particles out of the entire system. Since they pulled the refrigerant out did they tell you how much they got out (how many pounds). A 2 zone system has 700 grams of R134, and a 4 zone system has 880 grams (1.5/1.96lbs) If they pulled out considerably less then its probably just a low charge, if they pulled out something close them you probably do have a blockage somewhere, or a worn out compressor. Thats still a pile of money when you can get the compressors for about $300, the dryers are about $20 and a condensor is about $200 (range is about $120 to $350) and the expansion valves are about $30. R134 you can get at autozone for probably $40. Only other thing is you have to have the ability to draw the system down with a vaccuum pump to get all the moisture out of it after its been opened to the atmosphere. Prices like this is why I do all my own maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Again, THANK YOU you are a champion; I will update in a week or two. Winter is here in Southern Cal now, so I am in no rush. Speak soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
994 Posts
OK. If they drained out your refrigerant and didn't redraw a vacuum in the system, don't let it sit for an extended period, because moisture will get in there and cause more issues with corrosion inside the hoses, compressor and heat exchangers.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top