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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so now I have changed color, or to be more accurate Carl has changed my color :thumb: , I will say what has been on my mind for a while.
I never bothered taking these ideas further, more hassle than what it was worth to be honest, but here are a couple that have been floating around for a while...
New radius arms that would be stronger and have at least a Johnny Joint on 1 end, to allow for more travel and no bushings to replace.
A long(er) arm kit to allow more articulation and a better ride on road.
Full skid plates for under the rig. From oil pan to rear of transfer case, using the cross member as a central attaching point.
Bumpers in "kit" form to be welded by the buyer.
Just the brackets that I make for the bumpers, to allow the buyer to do his own thing on a solid platform.
There are a few to ponder for now.
If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.
I have been rock crawling for a number of years in harder stuff than most would ever see, but it has allowed me to see what works and what is hype.

Martin
 

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Holy Crap Batman! Bumpers in kit form is a killer idea! Shipping could be broke down into a couple of boxes to save oversize and overweight upcharges. :thumb: It's one of those ideas that are so dang simple I can't believe it hasn;t come up before. Of course it most likely has somewhere, but none the less. :thumb:
 

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As I watch prices for the 38 on ebay and elsewhere, it appears that interest remains very strong, and that the electrics and other bug a boos that frightened many in the past are starting to wane. That said, and knowing that vendors are offerring new short blocks with recycled cranks and rods, I think the 38 is going to be around quite a while and develop an even stronger off-road following if the right parts are available.

I like the idea of a weld it yourself front and rear bumper kit that includes a complete front to back skid plate. This type of item would push the demand for the vehicle itself.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The front's I haven't started on the front yet mate, but the rears are ready to go in any form. Completely finished or just the brackets seen here ready to bolt in and build off.
[attachment=0:9miclclr]mounting-bkt-side.jpg[/attachment:9miclclr]
4 holes to enlarge, and 1 new one for each side. total of 10- 7/16" grade 8 bolts holding the brackets on for a SOLID foundation.
All ideas considered on this end! :thumb:

Martin
 

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Since you are listening Martin, here's mine:

rear sway bar kit.

Short and to the point. `)

N.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #6
Sway bar disconnect kit? Or a whole new sway bar set up?
Disconnects are easy enough, a whole new system involves very specific spring rate in the steel.....

Martin
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
Sway bar disconnect kit? Or a whole new sway bar set up?
Disconnects are easy enough, a whole new system involves very specific spring rate in the steel.....

Martin

Well, disconnect kits are cool, but Caroll Rovers got that market. I've read their product is great.

I meant, Rear Sway Bar kit. AB has got one but is ridiculously overpriced. It should help a lot in reducing tail sway on road.

N.
 

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I like the green badge.... 8)

I might be interested in skid plates especially since I heard Southdown isn't making them anymore. Aluminum might be nice as well, lighter...

Differential guards...
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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spikemd said:
I like the green badge.... 8)

I might be interested in skid plates especially since I heard Southdown isn't making them anymore. Aluminum might be nice as well, lighter...

Differential guards...
I do those already :) but aluminium cost too much.
 

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Full skids would be interesting. Engineered with oil/tranny drain access without removal of the skid?

Bolt on knuckle guards? Be small and fairly easy/cheap I'd think.

If you could make cheaper safari light guards.....
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the ideas guys, and the compliments! :thumb:
I can get on with making a few items up after next week, as if I choose to I can work 2 weeks, then take 2 weeks off, then back to work for 2 weeks, and so on. Job site where I am delivering to (wind energy site) is running behind in unloading, so they need us to slow down with deliveries of the blades.
Bumpers in kit form is an easy enough job, as I have those ready to go pretty much. Only thing I would make completely are the brackets. That is too important a part to not be welded right if someone uses the clevis' for recovery.
Rear sway bars, or any sway bars, require some pretty hefty investment in equipment to test for the spring of the steel etc. so those are a no go. What I may be able to do is cross reference the size of the P38 one to another one, then make the links?
David, adjustable trac bars, or panhard bars, are easy enough mate. Radius arms with adjustable joints aren't brain surgery either. It would be near impossible to make one radius arm to cover every lift though as a bolt on deal. They will need to be adjusted on each individual rig via the Johnny Joints. A materials list has crossed my mind, only problem with that is how to stop it being circulated? Try calling any manufacturer and ask them the same thing, get the same answer :snooty: Sorry
I will mock up some skid plates for abuse testing and go from there. Will be in steel though, because as Flo said, ally is too expensive. Drain holes for the Oil pan will be there, but the only time I drain the tranny is when I change the filter too. So I guess I wouldn't see the point in having a drain for the tranny unless someone chimes in with a good one?
I dont think I have ever caught a knuckle on a rock myself, too close to the tire. I have made gussets for the knuckle though, to weld the knuckle to the axle tube.
What kind of safari light guard, and at what price? Cheaper than what/who's?
Thanks again guys for the encouragement, kind words and suggestions.
Martin
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
David, adjustable trac bars, or panhard bars, are easy enough mate. Radius arms with adjustable joints aren't brain surgery either. It would be near impossible to make one radius arm to cover every lift though as a bolt on deal. They will need to be adjusted on each individual rig via the Johnny Joints. A materials list has crossed my mind, only problem with that is how to stop it being circulated? Try calling any manufacturer and ask them the same thing, get the same answer :snooty: Sorry
Martin
you dont need to make a radius arm to cover any and all lifts.... just the one on my truck :lol: everyone else just needs to adjust their truck to match mine. although cranked radius arms to bring castor back to stock would leave me with the pinion pointed way far out and make the vibes much worse than they are already. its too bad there is not an easy way to rotate them like redrilling the swivel balls on DIs and RRCs.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #17
I always set the caster etc to specs, then check for vibes myself. Normally the geometry is more important than the pinion angle IMHO. If nothing else, you can split the difference and go from there. I look at it in this way, the caster/camber is there all the time, but vibes only happen (normally) at a certain RPM range. I always run a cv shaft on the front, so maybe that helps too?
I ended up buying my own caster/camber gauge to let me set my junk myself. Asking a tire shop to undo 75% of the front end to adjust it wasn't going to happen!
Lets get a list going on what people WILL pay for and go from there?
Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #18
After perusing the rig this weekend a little (didn't have a lot of time), here is what is going to be first up:
Adjustable panhard bar is a piece of cake, if I can find the joints in a small enough size!
Sway bar disconnects are easy enough.
Was looking at some brackets to raise the height sensors, also adjustable. Thoughts?

Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter #20
david despain said:
MARTIN, Are you thinking johny joints or similar or using oem type bushings for the panhard bars?
Threaded Johnny Joints etc. To allow for it being adjustable.
I will make them same length as stock when fully closed, which will allow @2-3" to wind it out which should be plenty. If not I will figure it out. :thumb:

Martin
 
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