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Hello all and a huge "thank you" for all the information I have found on this site. We bought a 1992 RR County this last saturday. Got her for 1200, which may or may not be a good price but she is what I wanted, hail damage and all. So far we have fixed, with this site's help, the ABS sensor module and am going to get 2 oxygen sensors tomorrow from Car Cannibal here in OKC. My husband thinks it is funny that I have been researching so much but when he found out I saved $112 for a service call by finding the info on the diagnostic display along with the codes he just said go for it. Along with OkieRover's "difficulty scale" I am willing to try fixing her myself. Now all I have to do is find the closest LR driving course and I'll be set! Thanks, you guys are great!
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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59 Posts
Hey congratulations! I am in Edmond and also have a 92.

The RR dealership, Bob Moore on Broadway has a RR driving course and I understand they will let you take your Classic over it.

Pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have any of you had the ABS sensor stay on and run the pump draining the battery? That happened this morning and when I got her charged up the check engine light which had been on with a code 44 on the display, suddenly wasn't on any more. Should I go on and get the O2 sensors and wait for the light to come on again? I ventured under her today and found a few things I don't like . Took pictures. I am ashamed to say I am not sure what parts these are as I have to find a manual.
 

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Welcome aboard! Hope you enjoy your Rover!

Your pic of oil drops.... same as my Rover lol, the pic of your bump stop...same as mine, the pic of the tailgate, well, popular problem but the catches can be adjusted.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,115 Posts
Congrat's :thumb: Nice looking Classic. Looks like it's even in my favorite color? (Eastnor)

The oil drips underneath shouldn't be a problem. Only when it leaves a big puddle in a short while, then worry. Mine looked like this for years, never left much on the ground though.

If I remember correctly the axle bumpstops only bolt up with one on each end?

You can carefully remove the plate on the lower back of the rear hatch and free up and lube the heck out of the tie rods, maybe a small adjustment to their length.

Welcome to the fray.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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367 Posts
Marikelly,
That latch problem is adjustable. I could show you how in just a few minutes.
We should have lunch some day, I work at the Capitol. Get your husband and you together and maybe we could eat in Midtown some day at lunch. I'd love to meet you both. I've got a manual on CD. I can make a copy for you.
RDKinOKC,
They must've changed their position on the driving course. In the olden days that was only allowed when they sponsored an event. Its been a while since they've sponsored any events.
 

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Congrats on the Rover.

"Third" on the oil drops, my 93 looks exactly like that also. It is difficult to subscribe to the "if it doesn't leave a puddle then its not a problem" but after fixing quite a few leaks and still experiencing others, I'm beginning to think that tracking down and fixing may be futile. A knowledgeable Rover mechanic told me that a certain amount of weeping (not leaking) is normal, and often not worth the effort to fix. I assume this is because he has experienced the weeping recur again shortly or pop up elsewhere. If one were going to investigate the drops in the photo, what is the likely culprit? The sump/pan gasket? The rear main seal? Something else?

I am bothered somewhat by the slight aroma of burning oil or perhaps it is power steering fluid after a drive, I assume the weep is dripping onto the exhaust -- does anyone else experience this? I haven't needed to top up either fluid yet but their levels do appear to be slowly decreasing.

My latches on the tailgate require a lot of strength to get them to catch (I am able but wife is not able), Okie what part can I adjust to make it easier? Is it the "latch-side" or the "body side" or both?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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201 Posts
Welcome to the club.


You need to flush your radiator put in the green coolant a 180 degree thermostat and change the engine oil to Rotella T and replace your oil cooler lines. Hows the rust?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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367 Posts
The post the window closes on is adjustable. Just loosen the phillips screws there and move it, retighten. Use a really big toothed screwdriver so you don't strip the screw heads out. I've attached a graphic.

Once you've loosened those two screws you can move the bracket.

My offer for lunch is still on. Would love to help if you guys have questions.
 

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