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I HATE my rover

10K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  RvrMechanic 
#1 ·
Air suspension inactive - 87k miles, 2005. car has been in the shop every 2-3 months since purchasing for everything under the sun going wrong. i'd trade it in if i could get more than the $15k its worth (too much neg equity). dearler says compressor overheating and needs replacing. He also "found" several other things, including BOTH valve cover gaskets which he just replaced 13 months ago!!!!!!!!!!!

I can find compressors online for $650 (including shipping). Valve cover gaskets are in the $30 range online. Is it worth the excessive labor charges to have them do it?

THANK YOU FOR BRINGING YOUR RANGE ROVER IN FOR SERVICE. HERE IS THE ESTIMATE FOR REAPIRS YOU HAVE REQUESTED:

- AIR SUSPENSION INACTIVE MESSAGE APPEARS DIAGNOSIS
1. INSTALL AIR COMPRESSOR $1037.94 PARTS: 725.44 LABOR: 312.50

- OIL LEAKS FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT DIAGNOSIS
1. INSTALL VALVE COVER GASKETS $526.42 PARTS: 176.42 LABOR: 350.00
2. INSTALL VCC SEAL – NO CHARGE COVERED UNDER PARTS WARRANTY

- COOLANT HOSES RECOMMENDED
1. INSTALL TOP RADIATOR HOSE (SEPARATING AT CLIP/SWELLING), INSTALL LOWER RADIATOR HOSE (SEPARATING AT CLIP/SWELLING), INSTALL REAR RADIATOR HOSE (SWELLING), & INSTALL TEMP SENSOR $667.00 PARTS: 229.02 LABOR: 437.500

YOUR TOTAL WITH TAXES WILL BE $2401.03. PLEASE E-MAIL ME BACK TO BEGIN REPAIRS.

PLEASE BE AWARE OF POTENTIAL FOR FURTHER COSTS & UNFORSEEN DAMAGES. I WILL CONTACT YOU IF THIS OCCURS.


(edit - added parts/labor breakdown)
 
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#2 ·
The compressor overheating is not a fault, it is a result of something else leaking causing it to work harder than it should.

Valve cover gaskets are more than likely due to excessive pressure build up, do you have the BMW engine or Jag engine? If BMW your PCV system will be shot. Even if these are faulty, it would take any grease monkey 1hr to change them.

Coolant hoses – they clip on and off, you only need a screwdriver to prise the clip undone. Buy the hoses and do it yourself (or don’t complain about stealer rates)

Your $2401 bill is more like $150 of parts and $50 of labour.

I would suggest that you read your workshop manual – so that when someone is trying to rip you off you can tell.
 
#3 ·
Just what I was going to say Dan.

I think he has the BMW Power (2005)... The plastic connector at the top hose to the motor block does have a history of failing, so it's a good Idea to change that. The top hose comes a a complete assembly by the way.

If the compressor is running all the time it will over heat and shut down till it cools, look for a leak, and or a bad ride height sensor.


Welcome to the RR life.

Again as Dan said, there are many maintenance/small repairs that you can do your self, and many times (like the valve cover gaskets) can be had cheaper thru BMW.

Mark.
 
#4 ·
I might add that visiting the dealer and getting charged premium rates is not something specific to LR, the Honda dealer for my wife's van is pretty outrageous as well (wanted ~$1,000 to fix an electric sliding door that stopped working, so I did some googling and fixed it for $40). Dealers are great for warranty work, but unless you are rich or want to pay for convenience, you'll be happier if you get a copy of RAVE and Microcat and learn about the vehicle. Even if there is stuff you wouldn't do yourself, at least you'll feel like you are making better informed decisions IMO.
 
#5 ·
There should be a warning stickied at the top of every subforum here...

warning--do not buy a used off-warranty Range Rover unless you are comfortable with significant annual expenses for repairs and maintenance, or unless you are a competent mechanic yourself. There is no such thing as a cheap used Range Rover. The purchase price is the entry price only. Range Rovers cost more than mass-produced cars to own.

Having said that I have two of them and love them. Of course they are both under warranty :)
 
#22 ·
There should be a warning stickied at the top of every subforum here...

warning--do not buy a used off-warranty Range Rover unless you are comfortable with significant annual expenses for repairs and maintenance, or unless you are a competent mechanic yourself. There is no such thing as a cheap used Range Rover. The purchase price is the entry price only. Range Rovers cost more than mass-produced cars to own.

Having said that I have two of them and love them. Of course they are both under warranty :)

hahahahahahaha.....rotfl......awesome.
and i'm pissed because someone took off my sticker before I bought mine.
 
#7 ·
thanks for the replies - it had plenty of warranty when i purchased, just drive it too much. it's BMW engine btw.

just gonna bite the bullet on the compressor (they say you MUST have a testbook to reset the codes, so even if I do change it myself, i'd have to go back in to reset the computer, right?)

as for the valve cover gaskets, the Rave steps seem quite involved, much more complicated than on my old 78 camaro. I'm taking it to an independent shop for those extras.
 
#8 ·
One of our fellow members, Storey Wilson, has designed a nifty little device which would allow you to do the repairs yourself and clear the faults.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=268&Itemid=77

I have one myself and love it. Already paid for itself (dealer charges $100 just to clear codes and nothing else). In my case I haven't actually identified a real problem with the suspension, but I've had a couple unexplained faults. I think it may be caused by my pressure switch being REALLY cold sometimes (garage is too small for the RR). I promise you, if I'd taken it to the dealer they'd have been recommending replacing things without even knowing if there was a problem. Generally, they will make problems go away just fine, but they tend to take the lazy way out and just replace as much as possible to make sure they cover all the bases.
 
#9 ·
linuxfreakus said:
One of our fellow members, Storey Wilson, has designed a nifty little device which would allow you to do the repairs yourself and clear the faults.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=268&Itemid=77

I have one myself and love it. Already paid for itself (dealer charges $100 just to clear codes and nothing else). In my case I haven't actually identified a real problem with the suspension, but I've had a couple unexplained faults. I think it may be caused by my pressure switch being REALLY cold sometimes (garage is too small for the RR). I promise you, if I'd taken it to the dealer they'd have been recommending replacing things without even knowing if there was a problem. Generally, they will make problems go away just fine, but they tend to take the lazy way out and just replace as much as possible to make sure they cover all the bases.
looks like a good deal, but seeing as i just had both front air bags replaced under warranty and now a new compressor to do, i'm just gonna let the dealer do the compressor. got him to drop $100 from the cost, bringing it to ~900. 650 for the part plus 200 for this would be about the same, but the dealer gives a yr/25k warranty on parts, so for $50 i think that's worth it. if i lived somewhere cold where i'd get random faults all of the time then i'd go for it, but he assures me its a bad compressor. i've been dealing with the guy for 4 years and all day today so i have a little faith in him.

still hate the car! (despite the nice ride and the oohs and ahs for having one, the repairs are too much hassle - sorry guys)
 
#10 ·
scottuf said:
thanks for the replies - it had plenty of warranty when i purchased, just drive it too much. it's BMW engine btw.

just gonna bite the bullet on the compressor (they say you MUST have a testbook to reset the codes, so even if I do change it myself, i'd have to go back in to reset the computer, right?)

as for the valve cover gaskets, the Rave steps seem quite involved, much more complicated than on my old 78 camaro. I'm taking it to an independent shop for those extras.
The compressor will take you about half an hour to change yourself, and that includes removing the spare wheel. You do not have to reset any codes when changing it, do it yourself.
 
#12 ·
scottuf said:
as for the valve cover gaskets, the Rave steps seem quite involved, much more complicated than on my old 78 camaro. I'm taking it to an independent shop for those extras.
No, just done it on the M62 in my BMW and it's very straightforward. Even easier on the BMW M62 engine in the RR, which has more room in the engine bay.
 
#15 ·
Rover is sensitive and will throw error messages at you from time to time. I am managing mine (03, 103k) with $40 OBD2 code reader, RAVE manual (free download), and this forum. Only basic mechanic skills and simple tools are needed for NEARLY ANYTHING on the rover. Dealer will rape you EVERY time. Compressor sits under your spare tire in the trunk, retarded monkey with only one hand and 2 fingers missing can replace it in 20 min. http://bputah.com/ has discounted OEM parts, or eBay - this only IF YOU REALLY NEED A NEW COMPRESSOR. Most likely its not the compressor, just like it was not the valve cover gaskets last time dealer replaced them.
 
#16 ·
Man-O-War said:
Rover is sensitive and will throw error messages at you from time to time. I am managing mine (03, 103k) with $40 OBD2 code reader, RAVE manual (free download), and this forum. Only basic mechanic skills and simple tools are needed for NEARLY ANYTHING on the rover. Dealer will rape you EVERY time. Compressor sits under your spare tire in the trunk, retarded monkey with only one hand and 2 fingers missing can replace it in 20 min. http://bputah.com/ has discounted OEM parts, or eBay - this only IF YOU REALLY NEED A NEW COMPRESSOR. Most likely its not the compressor, just like it was not the valve cover gaskets last time dealer replaced them.
It could even be as easy as the spare tire resting on the air hose... Wonder if this shop would still charge 1000+ for that repair :doh:
 
#17 ·
yes, i probably (did!) got screwed on the pump, but as i said above on a $700 part, I'll pay the little extra for the assurance that at least for the next 12 months if it goes out again then he'll replace it under his warranty. if i replaced it myself, and the underlying cause was something else (although he swears its just an old pump), then i'd be out the 1st pump cost, plus a second failed, plus still wouldn't know the root cause.

as for the gaskets, i can clearly see oil around all of the bottom bolts. the tech told me that its something i can change myself, but make sure i use plenty of goo and to crank the bolts down as tight as i can get them. as soon as he said that, i now know why it failed after a year. bozo put too much torque on the bolts and crushed the gasket. rave clearly has a torque spec. the tech agreed the gaskets should last more than a year, but since i'm past the 12 months, tough luck.

and the radiator hose, the top hose is cake, the bottom looks a little tougher, and the rear hose will take some looking for. but i know i can do those. he recommended changing the thermostat when changing the hoses. is this a good idea on this engine, or is he just selling a part I don't need?
 
#18 ·
Do the Thermostat, also be sure to use only the Blue BMW coolant... reason is that the plastic use can be attracted by other types. It's expensive compared to other coolants

If your suspension is still up at normal heights, then the ECM is going to hold it's program. Now if you changed a hight sensor, then it would need recalibrating.

We have two air ride vehicles (Audi allroads, and the Rover), and it's interesting that they will both act-up with about the same symptoms at about the same time... Go Figure.

Also having knowledge of the systems of a Rover, or any car, is like having a discount card even at the Dealer Service Center... It's doesn't take much info to alert the service manager/tec/service writer that they can't just tell you some BS, to scare you into spending big bucks. And by the way any factory parts/labor sold and replaced by an authorized center is cover for One Year, with no milage limit. (but that can or may have changed too).


Mark.
 
#19 ·
Moto One said:
And by the way any factory parts/labor sold and replaced by an authorized center is cover for One Year, with no milage limit. (but that can or may have changed too).
"...and replaced" is the key phrase there, which is why i had them do that part. the rest i'll do myself :) though the valve cover gaskets do look to be a chore. i can get the BMW coolant from the BMW dealer for half the price LR wants. LR even admitted to me last time i needed some that when they run out they just go to BMW for a few gallons! go figure!
 
#21 ·
I would imagine that over the past 3 years of the last post, he has had the work done......


Martin
 
#23 ·
Since I am a confirmed DIY person, and I've been working on countless cars, bikes, and airplanes in the last 42-45 years, I'll chime in here. "Hating" an inannimate object (like a car) is an excersize in futillity. There are two types of "high end" car owners out there (BTW, I own six cars, three motorcycles, and an airplane). The first kind are a rich/lazy/"I'm above it" types. They take the vehicle to the dealer to replace the fuse, pay through the nose, and ***** about it. The second kind are the types that one can find on the forums like this (and since I am very active on a Jaguar and Mercedes forums, I know the type). Most people on these forums are confirmed DIY types, that don't mind to get dirty. Not neccessarily poorer than the "Type 1", but people like me, who don't trust ANY shops/dealers, and PREFER to DIY.

Range Rover is a nice SUV. One of the nicest. But it's not "special" in any way. It has the engine, suspension, wheels, tranny, and electronics. Since MOST of the components on the vehicles of today, are shared between manufacturers, a lot of parts can be sourced from the MUCH cheaper source (Jaguar-Ford example). Air suspensions (another example) are VERY simmilar in design, operation, and execution between MANY brands. Add transmissions, sensors,.....you get the picture. Paying EXORBITANT prices for the simple work the vehicle might need, is just foolish.

I don't "hate" any of my vehicles. I learn about them, I find the best source for parts, and I DIY. I have the time, tools, and the "knowhow". I would much rather wrench on one of my machines, than watch anything on TV (example). To each his own.
 
#27 ·
you have a definite point...but the hate part doesn't come from just having it go down.
there aren't a lot of things I cant fix, from a lawnmower/weedeater to a massive boom truck used for coal mining equipment repair. the part where the hate part comes in is:
1. the price. whatever the part costs for a jeep or ford, it costs 4 times that much or more
for my vehicle (I have an 03 hse). and I'm in the usa...I'm sure it's a better picture across
the pond.
2. the availability. lets be honest...unless you go to the dealer, it's hard to find a brand new
aftermarket part for an 03 range rover. just went through this for my transfer box shift motor.
what a nightmare. I mean, crap...a new one of these costs 2000 approx. I can buy a 6 year old driveline out of a chevy with some vortec power and a tranny to kick for what it costs
simply for a motor that SHIFTS the transfer case, not even the transfer case. ridiculous.
its a 10 year old vehicle...
that's where the hate part comes in...at least in my case.

I'll fix anything with a mechanical heart beat. I dont shy away from much. but this vehicle
has definitely made me cuss a few times...
 
#28 ·
Avoid dealerships at all costs. Do your homework online e.g Atlantic British in Utah sell parts for almost half the dealer price and they have everything....then in Florida there's rovers land Miami, be careful dealing with them unless you specify you want oem they will sell you a part at oem price that was forged in a back room somewhere ,That's why buying a used range rover in Miami is a very bad idea.

Amazon has joined the parts distribution food chain. What they are doing is taking your order and having all the parts maker drop ship any item to you... Again be careful as some parts are just fake.

One other trick I have found is that everything is negotiable even with dealerships.. Just try mentioning that you are driving to the next dealership as they have a better prices and see how fast the guy at the counter will give you a 20% discount without being authorized to do so by his boss?? .. I hope this helps.. The biggest expense is labor. Look at the parts as a necessity not a liability. If you could buy yourself a brand new liver instead of a used one I'm sure you wouldn't need a minute to think about it. Having solid parts in your rig. Is a matter of dire safety and peace of mind. Fancy driving down a steep decent in Colorado and havering a wheel bearing go on you out there in the winter!... And instruction manuals to build a complete car are available everywhere so the price is justified considering the comfort and style you get as you roll down those nasty roads, or the compliments you get visually or verbaly everyday and it could be worse mate. The new rr just out is going for a whooping 130 k. Try that for a rig!..although I'm sure it's worth half the price lol!.... :naughty:
 
#29 ·
Avoid dealerships at all costs. Do your homework online e.g Atlantic British in Utah sell parts for almost half the dealer price and they have everything....then in Florida there's rovers land Miami, be careful dealing with them unless you specify you want oem they will sell you a part at oem price that was forged in a back room somewhere ,That's why buying a used range rover in Miami is a very bad idea.

Amazon has joined the parts distribution food chain. What they are doing is taking your order and having all the parts maker drop ship any item to you... Again be careful as some parts are just fake.

One other trick I have found is that everything is negotiable even with dealerships.. Just try mentioning that you are driving to the next dealership as they have a better prices and see how fast the guy at the counter will give you a 20% discount without being authorized to do so by his boss?? .. I hope this helps.. The biggest expense is labor. Look at the parts as a necessity not a liability. If you could buy yourself a brand new liver instead of a used one I'm sure you wouldn't need a minute to think about it. Having solid parts in your rig. Is a matter of dire safety and peace of mind. Fancy driving down a steep decent in Colorado and havering a wheel bearing go on you out there in the winter!... And instruction manuals to build a complete car are available everywhere so the price is justified considering the comfort and style you get as you roll down those nasty roads, or the compliments you get visually or verbaly everyday and it could be worse mate. The new rr just out is going for a whooping 130 k. Try that for a rig!..although I'm sure it's worth half the price lol!.... :naughty:
you're right...i always check the other avenues as well. luckily I haven't had to go to the dealer yet.
just wish there was more aftermarket United States involvement. You'd see a lot more of these on the
roads if there was...
and I completely agree with the new part idea...I refuse to put used parts on this vehicle.
my experience in vehicles is that used electrical/electronic parts no matter how great they are
dont usually pan out. I'd rather pay outright and know it's right. and done once.
 
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