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hey guys. i have been trying to fix my truck for a while now, and it seems to be baffling most everyone i ask. My p38 keeps doing this thing every couple weeks, where when i start it, it will turn over fine but won't stay running for more than a second. It happened four times now, and everytime it just works again after a few days, weeks, etc. Everyone on the forum told me it was probably a fuel problem, aka pump, filter, relays etc. This is what i thought too. But, it seems that the only thing that makes the truck turn on is the mechanic. All 4 times now, i replaced parts and checked wires, just to be let down. Whenever i give up, i take it to my mechanic(no Land Rover experience) and he merely jump starts it and it turns on. When i mess with it, i start it and start it, until the battery dies, and no matter how many times i jump it, it will start up but never turn on. Maybe the truck just doesn't like me.. Pleaase someone help.. I don't know what this could be. thanks so much.
 

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Re: I can't figure this out!!!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How does the mechanic jump start differently to you ? Your car does not hate you, he must be doing something differently or using a bigger battery to jump off or something.

I have not seen this before but I think I would start with electrical - grounds, battery and then charging.
 

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Re: I can't figure this out!!!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think you are getting fuel, but make sure you are also getting spark. When trying to start the rover, smell the tail pipe for gasoline after you have cranked it a few times. I recently had a blazer do exactly what you are describing, minus the jumping part. Turned out to be the PCM ($500 and a week later the thing fired up again. And they say rovers are expensive and have bad electrics). Doubt the rover would have the same issue as the blazer, just a thought.
 

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Have you replaced the fuel filter? It sounds to me like your pump is managing to get enough fuel to start it for a few seconds but runs dry. You must be getting fuel and spark if it's running at all but then it runs short of fuel right away. You could try disconnecting your fuel line after the filter and turning the key on and make sure you have a bucket to catch it in and see how your flow is, it should be constant. :think:
 

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get a test light on one of the the injectors, see if it's lighting up. that will tell you if it should be running or not. also hook up a timing light. it will help you narrow down why it stalls, no spark or injector signal. I'm yet to see a fuel filter keep a vehicle from starting, usually high speed driving suffers first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey. I just did the fuel filter before I brought it to the mechanic. Didn't work. I am not sure what a test light is or how to use one. Since it has been jumped by the mechanic, it has been running fine. I guess this means it is not a fuel problem? im just so confused. thanks
 

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ditto on test light and smelling for fumes on exhaust, if none then possibly the engine ECU is not getting the accept security signal from the main computer under seat.

Try "turn on ignition" to position II and listen out for fuel pump, should whine slightly for a few seconds...
Have you tested alternator to make sure its charging, test battery....but I doubt this is your problem
Just interesting that when its jump started it mmmm starts...battery..maybe
 

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if it's cranking or sounds like it's cranking normal then you can rule out starter, alternator. Needs fuel, air and compression to run. my 95 discovery and 92 rover both had electrical gremlins, the discovery (still not fixed) has the alarm immoboliser keeping the starter from working. I have the starter relay bypassed.

a timing light is what you would check ignition timing with, clips on to the ignition wire and you point it on the crankshaft to see if it flashes at the right time. a Test light is a little light bulb, I think any low watt 12v light bulb woulld work, goes in the electrical connector on the fuel injector. flashes whenever the injector gets a signal. I usually use my digital multimeter, measures about 3-5 v AC! not dc.
 

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I knew a guy that had a BMW 750 that had an identical symptom. Change this, change that, ca-ching ca-ching! He decided to sell the car at a loss because it wouldn't stay running for love or money. One day an "Old School" buyer shows up, but the colors are wrong or something and he doesn't buy the car, and he asks the owner if the car had ever sat for an extended period - which it had been stored for a winter. He tells him that he needs throttle bodies. My friend and I then do some digging and find out that if the vehicle sits for any length of time or he has run cheap gas then the throttle bodies can get gummed and plugged. He carefully removed, disassembled and cleaned them and the car with a new battery started and ran purrfectly! Turns out that the Beemer V-12 has a history of that symptom in which his fix was not widely known.

Could it be that it's just as simple to overlook in your case?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, sounds great. I will check if that works. by the way, how many throttle bodies does my truck have? more than one? now yesterday, the car cut off while i was driving, for a couple seconds, then went back on but ran real funny. I don't know what else this could be. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh, by the way, the truck did sit for a long time. also, the fuel pump turns on fine, and thanks for the tip on the timing light.
 

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Hi There I know this is going to sound stupid but I had same trouble checked all fuses with regards to engine every thing fine but no start, rover man came along checked fuses found one gone which according to the book this fuse controls the front headlamp wash 10amp fuse he replaced this fuse engine fired up straight away no trouble since worth a try

Best Regards Sillyboy
 

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My towncar did the same thing to me a few years ago, would run for a few days or hours,then stop, sit for a few days and not start, then magically start again. Had it towed to a shop and a couple of days later they towed it back to me at no charge and said, I don't know. Great, thanks for your help. Soooo, it sat in the driveway and I carpooled to work with a women who scared the livin s##t out of me every day. FinallyI got the idea to bypass my fuel pump relay with a little six inch piece of wire with alligator clips on each end and da da!, problem solved.The cost of a new fuel pump relay,$13, the cost to my sanity and nerves, PRICELESS. :lol:
 

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In my towncar the relays are a little more accessable than our trucks. I would suggest unbolting your fuse box under the hood and finding the wires that run out the bottom where the fuel relay plugs in and jumping there. If you have a test light with a clip on the end of a wire, connect the clip to ground and touch the wires coming out of your relay with the pointy end of the tester till you find which one is hot ( lightbulb will come on), then hook one end of jumper to hot and the other end to the wire going to your fuel pump, if it's a relay problem the truck should start. Gooood luck. 8) If you are successful just remember to take wire off after trying to start it as this will keep power going to fuel pump until you disconnect it.
 

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Hold on a minute, I was just reading my Rave and I could be totally wrong here. According to the book there is no fuel pump relay, only a 20A fuse, #39 for the fuel pump, try pulling it and check it's plug to see if it's corroded, or the plug in on your fuel pump. :shock:
 

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:idea: Realizing that this post is likely a little down the road, time wise, but I wondered if you had checked your crank sensor? It may just be dirty.

Back to Oblivion...



As long as there are still unpaved areas, they'll never catch me! "From my cold dead hands"
 
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