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Hello,

As I have a cracked and pourous block in my p38 from 1998 I need to install a new engine and am faced with a few options:

Option1: Buy a short engine for around $ 3750-, and refurbish my old heads for around $ 500. While at it, also put new Cam, injectors etc. The total would cost me around $ 6000,-.
This will give me an unrilyable engine which was designed in the early 60's by buick.

Option2: Install a BMW or Audi V8 engine. I can buy a used engine for around $ 750,- which has only 50K on the clocks.
The 3.6 liter Audi engine produces 250 BHP which is already more than the 4.6 liter rover engine produces....the fuel economy is also better!!!
Somebody on this forum (I believe it was shupack) sugested that if you use all the old engine's sensors, that the BECM will never notice the difference.
The only thing that needs to be done is remapping the Engine's computer to the new engine. (copy the audi mapping and somehow put it in the rover computer)
Is this remapping easily done, or is there somebody who is able to do that?
I realize that a lot of re-piping is also needed: cooling system, airco system, fuel system, air inlet, etc.
I also wander what happens if the other engine has a few sensors more or less.....
Anyway, I am in the research state of this project and any help or thought is welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Alex
 

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Good luck with that. It would be a great option for everybody.

I cannot for the life of me figure out why the useless 4.0 & 4.6 cost so much money. Poor economy multiplied by premium fuel, poor power production, slipped liners.

There has to be a better option. $3500 for a short block? Highway robbery!

Again, good luck and hopefully anybody on here that can support you will, minus the negativity, of course.
 

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Re-mapping the engine is not difficult IF you have a s/w package and OBDII interface which allows you to get inside your current Motronic or GEMS ECU. and take a copy of the operating system (= tune). You could then compare that to the recommended tune for the Audi or BMW engines and download the latter (BMW/Audi tune) into the RR ECU.

For example, the chaps at http://www.ls1-power.com appear to have successfully used the RR ECU and sensors on the GM Corvette V8 engine to great effect.

They state however that you need Autologic or a Testbook to do this...perhaps BlackBox solutions can achieve the same thing with the Faultmate...applied to the Audi /BMW option.

One of the attractions of the right software is that you can then put the vehicle through all sorts of driving conditions and log the outputs and make incremental changes to the mapping to optimise performance under different conditions. By performance I don't necessarily mean outright power but rather max efficiency for the task at hand.

Thus you can store a series of tune states optimised for different driving conditions as files on your computer and reprogram the ECU with the appropriate tune for expected driving conditions!

Seems a worthwhile project especially in terms of reliability and improved performance etc...for the life of me however, I can't imagine ever being able to get a reliable Audi /BMW engine of the sort you mentioned for $750 in this part of the world Down-Under...I wish!!

Good Luck!!
 

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Do all these engines bolt up to the tranny or what's being done about that? replacement tranny? Adapter plates?
 

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Good luck with that. It would be a great option for everybody.

I cannot for the life of me figure out why the useless 4.0 & 4.6 cost so much money. Poor economy multiplied by premium fuel, poor power production, slipped liners.

There has to be a better option. $3500 for a short block? Highway robbery!

Again, good luck and hopefully anybody on here that can support you will, minus the negativity, of course.
It is fairly obvious if you think about it,LP RR's were a high end 4wd sold in low quantities in your country so parts arent going to be cheap.How much power do you need ? The Chev blazer I had for a while was no better in power/speed terms than the RR I replaced it with - neither were racing cars but the Chev ate more fuel.Why do you need to run premium fuel ? Slipped liners/porus blocks can be sorted out by any decent engine shop with top hat liners made in the US. Apart from the block issues the Rover V8 is no less reliable than any other engine - most of the problems I see with them is down to owner abuse,poor/no maintenance or badly set up LPG systems.Which will kill any engine.
If you think RR's are slow,expensive and unreliable you ought to try an MB G-Wagen - they are really bad.
 

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Power & luxury= less power than a Kia?
In the UK, $3500 or so is reasonable for a shortblock, converted of course? 70's short block?
It seems a little crazy to me, but I thought others would think this way.
 

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Option1: Buy a short engine for around $ 3750-, and refurbish my old heads for around $ 500. While at it, also put new Cam, injectors etc. The total would cost me around $ 6000,-.
This will give me an unrilyable engine which was designed in the early 60's by buick.
Slipped liners/porus blocks can be sorted out by any decent engine shop with top hat liners made in the US. Apart from the block issues the Rover V8 is no less reliable than any other engine
Ally's answer is the way i would go personally - top hat liners will stop the slipping issue. but I guess it depends on your time and money at the end of day.

Do you have the time to lose from spending ages trying to get a non standard engine to fit into the rangie. Yes, the engine may cost substantially less, but all those other things you touch on is going to rack up to a lot of money as well. Plus your time = money too. The longer you spend searching for info, looking for parts, trying to get parts, trying modify parts to fit, fitting parts etc etc will be a big and decently long project. Can you afford that time ? If you have a family and at the weekends they are looking to spend time with you, but your in the garage fixing up the RR . . . is that worth it? Will be be constantly frustrated with the project and a car that is just eating up all you time?

Or, just go out, get the block fixed with new top hat liners or a new block with top hat liners and then drop it back in nad your back on the road in a considerably shorter time frame. Back on the road and out enjoying your time and using your time to do with as you wish, rather than having the mill stone around your neck.


I'm not telling you one way or the the other, but there is more to it than just the cost of the block alone and im my experience, biting the bullet allows you to free up other aspects of your life to get on with.
 

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I just put a 4.6 short block in that I got from Atlantic British catalog for $4,195.95. The original motor was a 4.0.

$3,750 souns like a good price. Is that US dollars?

up and running in 5 days.

http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17653

Good luck
 
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