RangeRovers.net Forum banner

41 - 60 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
well I assume the head has to come off and the lot. since the car cost me 4k id probably attempt it myself and try to learn something haha. although not sure if the body has to come off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Nice let us know how it goes - not sure if it’s body off it isn’t for the big one of mine - I’m getting mine done next week will take a couple of weeks while they take it off check what’s gone order bits etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
I thought that front body has to come off on Sports not FFRR. There is a video on the Sport motor removal that requires "body off" for the task.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Nice let us know how it goes - not sure if it’s body off it isn’t for the big one of mine - I’m getting mine done next week will take a couple of weeks while they take it off check what’s gone order bits etc
when I spoke to him he said won't be a full rebuild just the front and the tappets so won't need the entire body off. I can't see mine being gone because the cars running fine with no real issues but the code. so a smoke test should sort me out i think. Plus it has a few oil leaks which I assume can cause vacuum leaks as well

if the valves are gone I guess I'd replace them with hardened valves and keep running lpg. If its everywhere 150k they die that'll do. I guess the procedure wouldn't be that hard? Remove covers, camshafts, and replace the tappets, valves, head gasket, camshaft since I assume they wear with the tappets, timing chains and sort out the timing and awayyy we go.

if anyone wonders how am going to watch this guy

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Nice let us know how it goes - not sure if it’s body off it isn’t for the big one of mine - I’m getting mine done next week will take a couple of weeks while they take it off check what’s gone order bits etc
all booked in, he starts work monday. All in all 2.8k. But thats without the strengthed valve seats, said thatll last 60-80k miles. Do I just say **** it and splash out the extra grand and half and get those and that should cure the problem for good.

I just worry something else will die on the car before then and itll be scrap anyways if i go for the heads off option
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Hi - so did he say it definitely was the valve seats then? How did he test? Did you do your smoke test too? 2.8k is a lot but if it’s another 60-80k motoring that’s a good 6years average driving. I am going the hardened seats option but with what she owes me I want to be doing another 200k+ :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Hi - so did he say it definitely was the valve seats then? How did he test? Did you do your smoke test too? 2.8k is a lot but if it’s another 60-80k motoring that’s a good 6years average driving. I am going the hardened seats option but with what she owes me I want to be doing another 200k+ :)
Hes not 100% sure its the valve seats, its either tight tappets or yeah if am unlucky its the valve seats. I might be cheeky and try to buy the car to my own company, then put the repairs as an expense there and write it off but dunno yet. I want to go with the hardened seats but I just feel like something else is going to die. Plus if in 6 years its still in good nick I don't think I'd mind dropping another 3k on it.


Also did he say that was why the gas wasn’t working and it should be all good after the 2.8k?
The gas he thinks isn't combusting for whatever reason, he said he'll take a look.

The reason I couldn't do the sucker is because I don't have a garage and with the weather the way it is knowhere to work really.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Holy this went an entirely different direction than originally thought. Been out in the bush and just catching up here.

Mgrover I'm sorry to hear it's more than a simple set of issues 😞
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Holy this went an entirely different direction than originally thought. Been out in the bush and just catching up here.

Mgrover I'm sorry to hear it's more than a simple set of issues 😞
Ah thats okay. I got the car for pretty cheap compared to a low mileage full service history one. So even with paying this its still cheaper than one of those but I know the issues fixed.

Also seems like a good time to do the water pump while the cars in bits.

Next am thinking about maybe a 10% pulley for the supercharger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Ah thats okay. I got the car for pretty cheap compared to a low mileage full service history one. So even with paying this its still cheaper than one of those but I know the issues fixed.

Also seems like a good time to do the water pump while the cars in bits.

Next am thinking about maybe a 10% pulley for the supercharger.
Lettuce be cereal: you'd still be doing this on a regularly serviced RR either way 😆 😆 😆

At least you got a great deal!
And yeah, you'll know that vehicle so well. I went through that with mine.

I did all the heating/cooling hoses on my MY06 at 138k miles. Immediately the water pump blew after. I'd do them all if they're soft or if doing the pump. Save yourself the headache of doing part at a time.

I see those smaller pulleys for the eaton chargers on a bunch of the rebuild kits. Do the isolator upgrade when you do the snout. Not sure about the jag engine but on the Ford 5.0 in the MY10+ the isolator falls apart and gets slack in it causing noise and shite. I used a ZZP solid design which was recommended on an eaton forum with great results.

For comparison my MY12 SC still has the stock isolator and a person can feel the wear in how the engine runs at idle. The MY12 AB has the zzp isolator and runs noticeably smoother at idle. Both have appx 65k miles give or take a few. Mildly anecdotal but a reasonably fair comparison.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Basically it seems someone's already tried the tappet fix, the heads coming off for new hardened buckets but atleast it doesn't need all new timing kit.

The jag engines seem fine with it tbh.

I guess just need to recon the air compressor, sort out brake lines, and flush the gearbox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Flush is easy you can do yourself for about £200 don’t even need a ramp :) - got my car back today they reckon they found a different problem and fixed it cost me £50 I’m less convinced but it is a lot better - they reckon I need to clear all my adaptions because I have never done it since having loads of bits changed and air leaks fixed. Going to order an iid tool and see but it does seem better so far
 
41 - 60 of 88 Posts
Top