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Discussion Starter #1
So..what do I need to service outside of the usual jazz of oil, oil filter, plugs and airfilter.

its throwing too lean and fuel trim errors on both banks so either fuel filter, fuel pump or vacuum leak somewhere. But what else should I do?

also weird one but when putting the air suspension, it never gets to the top so to speak, its just forever inflating, is that normal or a leak somewhere?

it also has lpg so gonna have to take it to lpg garage for look.
 

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So..what do I need to service outside of the usual jazz of oil, oil filter, plugs and airfilter.

its throwing too lean and fuel trim errors on both banks so either fuel filter, fuel pump or vacuum leak somewhere. But what else should I do?

also weird one but when putting the air suspension, it never gets to the top so to speak, its just forever inflating, is that normal or a leak somewhere?

it also has lpg so gonna have to take it to lpg garage for look.
Each of those topics is pretty well discussed here in the forums.

I'd start with a search which should give you many threads to review and more than a few places to start.

Other questions:
Did you have the vehicle inspected before you purchased it?
What did the inspection reveal as to immediate service needs?
How many miles are on the vehicle?

If you didn't get an inspection I'd take it in to a qualified shop and have them go over any issues with you. If you are reading errors then you must have an OBD tool which should also give you insight into your slow air suspension etc. I know with my IIDTool I can see gallery pressure, pump temp, motor temp and things which might indicate an overworked compressor from a leak or bad valve etc.

BTW it would be great if you updated your signature with your year and model L322 to make it easier for others to help you in other threads. It's obvious here, but not other places.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Each of those topics is pretty well discussed here in the forums.

I'd start with a search which should give you many threads to review and more than a few places to start.

Other questions:
Did you have the vehicle inspected before you purchased it?
What did the inspection reveal as to immediate service needs?
How many miles are on the vehicle?

If you didn't get an inspection I'd take it in to a qualified shop and have them go over any issues with you. If you are reading errors then you must have an OBD tool which should also give you insight into your slow air suspension etc. I know with my IIDTool I can see gallery pressure, pump temp, motor temp and things which might indicate an overworked compressor from a leak or bad valve etc.

BTW it would be great if you updated your signature with your year and model L322 to make it easier for others to help you in other threads. It's obvious here, but not other places.
Nah
130k

I'll take a look at IIDTOOL.
 

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Nah
130k

I'll take a look at IIDTOOL.
Again, 2 or 3 word ambigious responses don't help us help you much.

At 130k you potentially have loads of things to service. Unless you're just trolling here you really should get an experienced mechanics opinion.

If you feel yourself a competent mechanic there are loads of threads a forum search will provide as you can't expect the members to do all your work for you. Especially with very general questions or ambigious responses.

Forum search is your friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't have the vehicle inspected so am tempted to now and just make a laundry list of items and just go for it. I am really not trolling. I was just on phone so typed briefly.

I think I will have it inspected, am told JLR themselves might offer a free healthcheck.
 

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I didn't have the vehicle inspected so am tempted to now and just make a laundry list of items and just go for it. I am really not trolling. I was just on phone so typed briefly.

I think I will have it inspected, am told JLR themselves might offer a free healthcheck.
No worries and hey I appreciate the clarification. We get a lot of people who just want their problems solved and this is more a DIY learning group, most of us are very hands on.

Dealer vs Indy mechanic is a hot topic, personally I avoid the dealer whenever possible as the cost is high and the knowledge is low.

The biggest challenge as mentioned is at 130k you'll see air suspension woes in that shock bags will start leaking, compressor will need a rebuild, valve blocks can start leaking etc. Your transmission if not flushed already is way overdue, same with diffs. Probably need plugs and the basics too. Cooling system can need all new hoses. If the previous owner was solid they did all this but its a cycle and you'll have to do some of it again at some point.

I'd get both cooling system and engine compression tested.

If your OBD tool isnt showing any errors and you're driving it, that is a very good sign.

130k has a lot of life left in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No worries and hey I appreciate the clarification. We get a lot of people who just want their problems solved and this is more a DIY learning group, most of us are very hands on.

Dealer vs Indy mechanic is a hot topic, personally I avoid the dealer whenever possible as the cost is high and the knowledge is low.

The biggest challenge as mentioned is at 130k you'll see air suspension woes in that shock bags will start leaking, compressor will need a rebuild, valve blocks can start leaking etc. Your transmission if not flushed already is way overdue, same with diffs. Probably need plugs and the basics too. Cooling system can need all new hoses. If the previous owner was solid they did all this but its a cycle and you'll have to do some of it again at some point.

I'd get both cooling system and engine compression tested.

If your OBD tool isnt showing any errors and you're driving it, that is a very good sign.

130k has a lot of life left in it.
The dealer is strictly for the free healthcheck and nothing else in this case.

So already seeing some issues with EAS but that seems like faulty sensors when rising. And all the laundry list of items you listed have to be done.

The person I bought it off bought it off someone else who had it as a business car so an inhouse mechanic was looking after it, but that could of been a lie for all I know.

OBD is showing fuel trims and too lean errors. But from what I can tell its been like that for 1-2 years so I'll try to find what issue is with that, I guess first check is smoke test, then new fuel filter then new pump.

The car itself is driving fine aside from the errors that are being shown.
 

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OBD is showing fuel trims and too lean errors. But from what I can tell its been like that for 1-2 years so I'll try to find what issue is with that, I guess first check is smoke test, then new fuel filter then new pump.
If you can post the actual P fault codes that is hugely helpful and a great place to start from. It rules out a lot of speculation.

Easy things to check on a MY06 I SC: clean the MAFs and throttle body. Obviously MAFs get dirty over time but dont always need replacement, a good cleaning can help. You can wipe out the face of the throttle body to be sure the valve is moving cleanly.

What OBD tool do you have?

Using IIDTool, SDD, autologix or textbook you should be able to reset the adaptive engine learning after a good clean or tune up. This may or may not help your problem but it can clear up the ECUs confusion with fuel trim issues etc.

I bought a MY06 years ago and have dealt with just about every normal issue. Good thing is it's a more reliable year than some others.
 

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I have one better, screenshots of it all.


Its just some generic wifi tool.

I'll give all that a shot to see whats what.
Thank you. That is fantastic!

Searching those specific P codes is where to start. It's been a while since I've had those issues and cant comment off the top of my head but someone will chime in if they've recently dealt with them.

Pretty sure P0171 and P0174 are MAF related but they all may be as they're in that range. As mentioned clean your MAF(s). Be sure to only use a paper LR air filter, not a K+N or anything like that. Wipe out the throttle body so its clean and reset the adaptive learning after the clean.

Personally I'm more help with general suspension and electrical/ecu issues but a quick google search of those codes confirmed it's most likely MAF related.
 

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I had a problem with PO171 PO174 on MY06SC and it ended up being a leak in long plastic. I think its "PCV Breather hose" I could hear the leak if I held pipe up to my ear. I had swapped MAF Sensor, and other items trouble shooting.
 

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I'm pretty sure it is part number LR005991. I remember seeing this mentioned in a lot of threads when I was researching on this forum.
 

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I had a problem with PO171 PO174 on MY06SC and it ended up being a leak in long plastic. I think its "PCV Breather hose" I could hear the leak if I held pipe up to my ear. I had swapped MAF Sensor, and other items trouble shooting.
I just read this post and I wasn't clear. I used a piece of rubber fuel line. I held one end up to my ear, and the other end close to the PCV Breather Hose. That is how I determined the hose had a break. Sorry about the lack of clarity in original post.
 

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I had a problem with PO171 PO174 on MY06SC and it ended up being a leak in long plastic. I think its "PCV Breather hose" I could hear the leak if I held pipe up to my ear. I had swapped MAF Sensor, and other items trouble shooting.
For the OP: I want to say that this is normally a 100k mile service item. If I remember on my MY06 I did this out of preventative maintenance near 100k as it was a bit gummed up inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll probably start with the hoses since they'll be cheaper than the maf, but I'll give that a good clean for good measure. then I need to find somewhere for a good gearbox flush
 

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I'll probably start with the hoses since they'll be cheaper than the maf, but I'll give that a good clean for good measure. then I need to find somewhere for a good gearbox flush
Just clean the MAF, they shouldn't need replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just clean the MAF, they shouldn't need replacement.
Great day today.

I got hold of the mechanic whose serviced the car for most its life. He didn't have too much info or the full service history...BUT he did know that the gearbox was done 20k miles ago, they had another one in and it cost about 2k to do which is standard for gearbox replacement.

I think ama still going to get the box flushed but yeah.

I'll give the MAF a clean and see whats what.
 

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Great day today.

I got hold of the mechanic whose serviced the car for most its life. He didn't have too much info or the full service history...BUT he did know that the gearbox was done 20k miles ago, they had another one in and it cost about 2k to do which is standard for gearbox replacement.

I think ama still going to get the box flushed but yeah.

I'll give the MAF a clean and see whats what.
Great start, any information is better than none.

To clarify: they replaced the transmission at 110k miles and the new transmission has 20k miles on it?

If so don't worry about doing fluids and filter in the transmission unless it shifts hard or funny. That's a $600 service including parts and isn't really needed until about 60k miles on the transmission.

Ask the service manager if they did the 100k service. If not do those. Probably good to do an oil change now so you can maintain proper 5k-7.5k oil change intervals.

A few things you can do yourself listed below.

Quick checklist:
  1. Check that your air filter is paper and clean.
  2. Clean your MAF but do not touch it with your fingers.
  3. Wipe the throttle body out with MAF or even brake cleaner sprayed on a rag (not directly onto the throttle body).
  4. Run a can of BG44k through the gas tank (only LR recommended fuel additive/cleaner).
Air suspension:

If lowering and rasing to standard height without issue or fault/error codes, but rises into offroad height slowly or never quite seems to finish it's probably just a weak compressor which has aged. There are rebuild kits for $100 and is a regular service item every 75-100k miles along with air suspension bags and valve blocks.

From your description your air suspension is slow at max height which is normal for a potentially old unit.

When ride height sensors and things go out there are often errors attached along with physical symptoms. For example I had a compressor with 58k miles on it violently blow this last weekend. Was working fine and then a "gallery filling slowly" error popped, rapidly followed by a catastrophic piston failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also I noticed this sucker isn't a L322 since its a RRS.

The transmission was replaced 20k ago, so 110k. The guy I was speaking to wasn't all that helpful aside from that nugget of gold about the transmission, just kept saying it the cars made it to 130k then it must of been serviced properly which isn't a whole lot of help.

I'll do the above thanks :)
 

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Also I noticed this sucker isn't a L322 since its a RRS.

The transmission was replaced 20k ago, so 110k. The guy I was speaking to wasn't all that helpful aside from that nugget of gold about the transmission, just kept saying it the cars made it to 130k then it must of been serviced properly which isn't a whole lot of help.

I'll do the above thanks :)
Definately post in the L320 group. Especially for MY06 there may be some distinct nuances which are different like the air shocks themselves.
 
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