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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm embarking on my weekend project this morning... doing the front end ball joints. I got a new set of seals, two of my new joints came without the nuts (spent day before Christmas, getting laughed at for my choice of vehicle ownership, learning they were Whitworth thread - forget hardware/auto store availability :| ) Hoping I can reuse a set with a little locktite. It's questionalbe if the new ball joint press I purchased will fit. I'm going to find out, and once-and-for-all post the correct press adapter sizes here. Wish me luck!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
OK... first request for help!

Any suggestions on how to seperate the hub from the carrier assembly (without use of high explosives).
Have tried driving hub out with BFH on the fasteners from the back side. Have tried driving chisel/wedge in between flange mating surfaces... nothin', no love.... :(
 

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I was in the same situation last year. Heat, hammer and patience. I beat the crap out of it for two days trying to get the **** thing separated. I went form side to side and finally it came apart. Patience and beer will help.

charliet
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! :)
Got the carrier assy separated from the hub and the shaft pulled. Patience, beer, and a screwdriver shank that I didn't like anymore... Used it to slowly drive/wedge the two pieces apart. Whew.

Unfortunately I ran square into the "special tool" brick wall... :cry: Thought I could use a two arm puller to get hold of the hub and drive the lower (and upper) ball joints out. Ph#@k :evil: Tool resources closed, and I'm out of time for this weekend. Now I need to get hold of that elusive tool to remove the hub... I've got a few weeks before I can get back home to continue, so for now I'll take some measurements and see what's out there on the net. I know one of the members found a tool to do the job but the specifics were never posted (other than a picture), so if anyone out there can cough up some specifics (name, size, source?) I would be grateful.

Oh well, for now I'll lick my wounds and have a beer or two. Another rewarding day of RR ownership... :roll:

 

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I used two pickle forks and a big hammer. Actually I used 4 pickle forks since I broke two of them. I just hit the forks alternating between the two. Of course I had a few beers as well.

charliet
 

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Sorry cant offer any advice on this. I will say that is a nice photo, please take some more along the way..
 

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More pics and a bit of a write up will land you on home page. :thumb:
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Doesn't Autozone and Advanced Auto rent ball joint tools?

I've had my ball joints sitting in the garage for over a year now. Someday I'll get to it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
kmagnuss said:
Doesn't Autozone and Advanced Auto rent ball joint tools?
Yes they do... that was the first call I made Saturday evening. However, I didn't know what to ask for specifically. The lower joint is particularly tough to get a purchase on. I'm going to try to ID some sort of pressing tool. I prefer that method vs. bashing the snot out of it with pickle forks. The more I search, the more I see that seperating the U/L ball joint tapers from the hub carrier has presented trouble for other members. I hope to find what works for a pressing tool and post the details, source, etc. In a few weeks...
 

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rtkraken said:
I know one of the members found a tool to do the job but the specifics were never posted (other than a picture), so if anyone out there can cough up some specifics (name, size, source?) I would be grateful.
Are you referring to the tool shown in this thread? - http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic. ... val+photos

I got mine from ebay in UK last summer to do the ball joints (same thing onU S ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Astro-Pn ... 081wt_1134 ) . It took a bit of fiddling around to set up for each ball joint, but it worked well. I think (memory starting to fail me) that I also used it to force the hub carrier from the upper ball joint. I put a pickle fork between the hub carrier and hub, then used the tool to push up on the bottom of the threaded part of ball joint as if trying to remove it.
To remove the lower joint I used some heat on the hub and a combination of a large hammer and a spanner hammered between the hub and carrier (the rubber boot being previously burnt away with the torch applying heat.

Good luck - it's a pig of a job but made a big difference to the way the RR rode.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info! I've got the c-clamp press kit for pushing out the ball joint housings from the axle yoke. The tool I'm hoping to ID would be used to part/pop the tapered seat of the threaded ball joint shanks from the hub carrier. The lower ball joint appears to be the challenge. The hub carrier covers a good portion of the grippable/wedgeable area needed to secure a pressing device in that location. One member pressed it out with what looks to be a pitman arm or tie rod end puller, but mentioned it didn't square up quite right. I'm thinking of getting the front end kit that some tool vendors sell and try these tools to see what works.
By the time I'm done I can retire and go into the front end service business... :lol:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #12
OK, back at it, new tools in hand, happily finished the drivers side ball joint replacement. :clap:
Feeling pretty confident, I started into the passenger side....
...and proceded to get my ass thoroughly handed to me. :(
I could not get the hub freed from the swivel yoke. I pounded, heated, lubed, till my hands were bashed and cramped from swinging that **** BFH. I managed to tear the CV boot, not a happy moment.
I ended up bolting, what I'd taken apart, back together and am now going to drive it to a shop, where hopefully they have some expertise with high explosives, to get the friggin' thing apart.
Very disappointed, my Superman cape is in tatters...

Let this serve as a warning... there is no special tool to get the hub out of the yoke that I could find. Unless you're vehicle is spanky clean (no rust) attempt this at your own risk (to your sanity).

I'm hoping that by raising the vehicle on a lift at a shop that I can get a better swing on the BFH and bash the **** thing into submission. This repair has proven to be a wicked bag of suck...
 

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kmagnuss said:
rtkraken said:
This repair has proven to be a wicked bag of suck...
LOL,...gotta love "northern" terms. I think everyone I know from the MA area, uses the word "wicked." As far as the mechanical woes go, I think that why I love mine. It always gives me a reason to go play in the garage where the wife doesn't dare venture
 

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If I understand your problem correctly, you are trying to remove the "unit bearing". If this is the case us Jeep guys have a little trick.

Take a long socket (deep well) and put it on the bolt after loosening it a few threads, then turn the wheel and compress it against the knuckle, repeat for each bolt. It will pop out after a few times doing this to each bolt.
 

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I used two pickle forks and a big hammer. Actually I used 4 pickle forks since I broke two of them. I just hit the forks alternating between the two. Of course I had a few beers as well.
another method is to give the tapered joint a sharp tap "sideways" with a heavy ball pein/peen hammer using a metal block on the other side to absorb the "bang". the taper then tends to just " drop out" :shock: 8-0= `)
Alternatively, instead of the pickle fork use the other common one which has hinged pickles and a bolt to force them apart thereby separating the taper... put the device in place, screw down the bolt to put the taper under stress then use the ball pein etc in the manner above...
 
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