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2002 HSE, located South Shore of Lake Superior, Wisconsin. Truck stranded me 50 miles from home. Had locked it manually, remotes not synched. Came back 3 hours later, unlocked manually, alarm sounds when open drivers door. No other doors open. Message indicates "Engine Disabled". Went back next day, disconnected battery cables, touched them together. Reconnected battery. Same results. Tried the LRLR key Security Code entry. Same results. Had local indy shop pick up truck on flat bed. He has tried same processes, same results. He lacks adequate diagnostic equipment. Truck has Scotty BECM and ECU. Using his Security Code. Message among other usual after disconnecting battery, is no longer "Engine Disabled", but "Gearbox Fault".
I know there are many posts on this, but I don't know how to access them, since format change. Please help me to either access those posts, and/or provide any advise.
Greatly Appreciated
Dan Zei
 

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Central Locking and Alarm Arming
Central locking of all the doors can be done several different ways:
1. Pressing down either front sill locking button with the doors closed will lock all doors.
2. "Slam locking" (pressing a sill locking button and then closing the door) will lock all doors -- only on
vehicles up to mid-1996.
3. Locking the driver's door with the key.
4. Pressing the lock button on the remote.
5. "All Close" locking: Holding the key in the lock position for over a second also closes the winndows and
sunroof.
6. "Lazy Locking" (Most UK, Europe? but not NAS or Australia) -- Holding the remote button for over a
second also closes the windows and sunroof.
7. "Superlocking" with key or remote by a double turn of the key or double press of the locking button on
the remote.
8. Auto Relocking will occur if the vehicle is unlocked but no door openings, ignition key insertion or turnon,
or movement inside the vehicle are detected.
In cases 2 through 6 above, the alarm is armed to the "perimetric" mode in which it will be set off by opening
any door, window, the rear hatch or the hood/bonnet. Engine cranking is disabled and and electronic engine
immobilization is activated (more on this below).
In case 7, the "superlocking" mode energises an additional motor in each door lock actuator which disconnects
the sill locking buttons so they cannot be used (e.g., by a burglar) for unlocking. If superlocking was done by
the remote, and the windows and sunroof are closed, the ultrasonic volumetric alarm will also be activated. (If
done by the key, a press on the remote locking button is still required before the volumetric alarm will be
activated). In this mode, the alarm will be set off if any movement of a person or animal is detected inside the
vehicle.
Engine Immobilization
Whenever the alarm system is armed (or, on 1996 and later
models when passive immobilization is enabled -- see below
-- when the ignition key is removed), the engine is
immobilized. In this state, the Engine Control Module (ECM)
will not operate normally unless it receives a mobilization
code from the BeCM. Furthermore, if some clever thief
jumpers the starter solenoid and manages to turn the engine
over, it will do no good because a crank signal is detected by
the engine ECM (via the engine crank sensor which is
normally used to time the ignition and determine engine
speed). This information is sent to the BeCM which puts an
"ENGINE DISABLED" signal on the message center on the dash and continues to make it impossible to start the
engine.
On 1996 and later models (UK, Europe? and some other markets, but not North America or Australia), the
system was "improved" by adding a so-called "passive immobilization" feature (enabled in North America and
some other markets) that activates engine immobilization whenever the key is removed from the ignition,
regardless of whether or not the vehicle is subsequently locked or the theft alarm armed. A "passive
immobilization coil" was added around the barrel of the ignition switch to trigger a code from the remote
handset when it is inserted in the ignition, enabling remobilization (see remobilization section below).
Presumably the theory behind this "improvement" is that a thief cannot start the vehicle even if you forgot to
lock it and he can turn the ignition switch on without a key. (NOTE: This wonderful feature also requires you to
leave the key in the ignition when changing the battery to avoid immobilization. See Battery Replacement
page).
Photo above right by Ron Beckett, showing ignition switch barrel on a 1995 model, with no passive
immobilization coil but with "key in" switch and wiring clearly visible. Cobwebs are due to this photo
being taken in a partially dismantled vehicle at a wrecker's yard.
Unlocking, Disarming and Remobilization
The theft alarm is disarmed by pressing the unlocking button on the remote. The RF receiver located in the
right hand side of the loadspace conveys this signal to the BeCm which decodes it and, if the code is correct,
unlocks the doors and disarms the alarm. On 1995 models, the vehicle is then in an unarmed state.
On 1996 and later models with passive immobilization enabled (UK, Europe? but not North America or
Australia), if the key is not inserted into the ignition within 30 seconds of unlocking with the remote handset or
EKA procedure (see below), the BeCM reverts to the immobilized condition. The engine remains immobilized
until the remote/key is inserted into the ignition, closing the "key in" switch and activating a "Passive
Immobilization Coil" (Z270) around the barrel of the the ignition switch. The electromagnetic field from this
coil excites a receiving coil in the remote key handset. If the remote is acting normally (for example, does not
have a dead battery), it will then transmit a mobilization signal to the BeCM via the RF receiver. The BeCM then
disarms the vehicle and remobilizes the engine.
On all models, when the unarmed state has been achieved, the BeCM transmits a mobilisation code to the
engine ECM commencing 48 milliseconds after the ignition is turned on, and until it receives a confirmation
signal from the ECM telling it to illuminate the "Check Engine" light (as an indication of correct operation) and
allows engine cranking when requested. In turn, the ECM enables engine fuelling and proceeds to allow all
engine controls to act normally.
Remote Handset Synchronization and Desynchronization
The remote handset uses a "rolling code" algorithm, meaning the code is changed every time remote locking
or unlocking is performed. The BeCM stores the code sequence in its RAM and has a capture range of 100
codes after the previously received value, so should be able to remain synchronized with the handset unless
more than 100 attempts have been made to operate the remote while out of range, or the remote's batteries
are removed or die, or the vehicle's battery dies or is disconnected. That is the theory -- in real life it seems to
lose synchronization more often, such as when the vehicle's RF receiver has been activated by other spurious
sources of 315 MHz (or 433 MHz in other markets) transmissions.
Resynchronization is accomplished by performing a key lock or unlock within 30 seconds of requesting a
remote lock, superlock, or unlock. The BeCM senses the change in state of the "CDL" (Central Door Locking)
switch in the driver's door to initiate resynchronization.
On 1997 and later models (all markets?), "friendly synchronization" is provided whenever the key/remote is
inserted into the ignition. The passive immobilization coil around the ignition barrel activates a pickup coil in
the remote, causing the remote to transmit an unlock signal to remobilize the vehicle.
Resynchronization Exception Mystery:
The driver's handbook, shop manual and ETM all contradict their own instructions on resynchronization, stating
that it cannot be achieved by the above procedures if the vehicle security system is "active" (Shop manual) or
"armed" (driver's handbook). In this case, you have to resynchronize by the Emergency Key Access method
(see below). These instructions do not make sense to me, since the alarm is nearly always armed if the vehicle
is locked. Perhaps it means if the remote is desynchronized and the alarm has meanwhile been set off
somehow, the EKA procedure has to be used for resynchronization. Or, perhaps the exception refers to when
some malfunction is present. In any case, probably the best method of resynchronization is to first unlock the
vehicle with the key so the alarm will be disarmed (if everything else is working right), then perform the
synchronization routine.
If the usual Synchronization Procedure Does Not Work:
If after replacing batteries and attempting the usual resynchronization procedure it still does not work, you can
probably get the remote to work again using a special procedure (formerly known only to dealers) that is used
to program new remotes. See the section on "Replacing and Reprogramming Remote Handset" on
the Replacement and Reprogramming page. above procedures,
Emergency Key Access ("EKA") Procedure
(Disarming Alarm & Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or
Fails)
Overview and Instructions
The EKA procedure is provided as a back-up method of disarming the alarm and re-mobilizing the vehicle if all
else fails. (For another equally good if not better method see the "Key in Position II" procedure below). It uses
a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver's door lock cylinder. From owner reports to date, this
feature seems to be enabled on 1996 and later models in Europe, but not North America or Australia -- but see
below for a generic EKA code procedure that works in North America.
The manuals are vague and contradictory on when EKA might be necessary -- the shop manual says it is if you
lock the vehicle with the remote handset and then you lose the remote or it fails. (This is understandable on
models with passive immobilization which cannot be started without the remote, but the manuals are
enigmatic on why this could happen on vehicles without passive immobilization). You still need the key part of
the remote, or one of the spare mechanical keys supplied in later model years.
According to the manual, if the remote has failed or been lost and you try to open the door with just the
mechanical key, the alarm will sound twice. (Of course, this does not make sense because you should be able
to get into all models quite satisfactorily with just the mechanical key. Perhaps they are referring to situations
when the remote has malfunctioned in a way that upsets the BeCM, or the alarm has been set off for some
reason). If you then try to start the car, the message center will display "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR
USE KEY CODE". (This part makes sense on vehicles with passive immobilization, as described above, or
perhaps if the alarm has been activated).
Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note:
on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote
handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the
following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized
the input).
1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors. The alarm will now be partially disarmed; if you try to
open the hood the alarm will sound. After five incorrect attempts (3 for 1996 and later models) at this
procedure, the BeCM goes into a 10 minute lockout mode (30 minutes for 1996 and later models), during
which time the message center displays "KEY CODE LOCKOUT" and further attempts at EKA will not work.
The EKA code is supposed to be on your "security card" but I don't have one for my vehicle and Staffan
Tjernstrom, who first alerted us to this information, mentions that getting it probably involves knowing your
dealer very well, and maybe a few pints of good beer! Alex Rudd informs me that he has used the EKA method
to recover from alarm problems, and that in the UK you can present or fax your owner's log book (or email a
photo of it) to a Range Rover dealer to prove ownership, and they will give you the code.
Update February 2005: Confusion between LHD and RHD vehicles has been reported regarding this procedure.
Alex Rudd from the UK reports "I have seen quite a few versions of using the EKA code on the net, most of
which are wrong (I know, I've tried them all, and waited hours during the EKA Key Lockout session!). The correct
one to follow is the version from the Range Rover handbook, which starts the key code entry on the clockwise
turn - most of the others I have read refer to starting on an anti-clockwise turn, which then doesn't work." I
think this contradiction is due to the difference in key lock direction between LHD and RHD vehicles (Alex's is a
RHD model). This was confirmed by Ian Gibree who had to use the EKA on his Dutch-plated LHD Range Rover
when interference from a cell phone tower stopped his remote from working. He used the procedure in his
handbook starting withteh anti-clockwise turn and it worked. Thus it seems that the first turn should always be
to the "unlock" position.
Careful if your BeCM has been Replaced: Now that some owners have changed the BeCM in their vehicles, be
sure you have the right key code for your vehicle before you try this procedure. Alex Zahariev reports
(May 2009) trying it on his 95 model with the correct code for his VIN, but after a few tries he got the "Key
Code Lockout" message and the shop had to physically cut the door open. It turned out that his BeCM was a
replacement from a later model salvage vehicle and had been changed when his 95 had been flooded.
Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or some Australian ones, and is not mentioned
in their owners' handbooks (but see "rest of world" section below). However there does seem to be an
abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover
dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle
stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine
Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant
of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the
same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.
Aidan confirms that he found out from Land Rover that the normal EKA is not applicable to US spec P38A
Range Rovers, but the generic "null" code (1515) is used. For example, when replacing a BECM it asks for the
code and a null # is inputted (1515).
Ignatius Wong wrote in to say the generic 1515 code he got from this page also worked on his 1996 Discovery
when it its alarm system froze everything and prevented him from turning over the engine. starting the vehicle.
Rest of World:
Kieran McCoey reports from Australia that in the case of his '97 build, '98 reg 4.0 rangie the EKA procedure
does definitely work (here we are speaking of the method requiring a special code for each vehicle, not the
generic code). "I've had to use it a few times, when inadvertently parked next to mobile phone towers. (In fact,
there is a spot in a popular skiing town we frequent notorious for immobilising Land Rovers!)." The method he
used is a little different from that described above. He describes the method given in his owner's handbook as
follows: To initiate the procedure, one must first turn the key anticlockwise (locking the car) 4 times. The 4-digit
EKA code can then be entered- first clockwise, then anti, etc. After all 4 numbers have been entered, turn once
more clockwise to unlock the vehicle, disarm the alarm, and re-mobilise the engine.
Ove Sognnes from Norway reports that the generic code worked on his also: "Range Rover Norway didn't
supply me with the correct procedure for opening RR when remote is lost, but you did. Thanks again. Your
procedure works perfectly on my 97 range rover HSE, open door, lock 4 times, then starting procedure.
Smashing."
Tip: Check Door Handle If Vehicle Will Not Accept Code:
Shaun Dale, an Autodiagnostician in the UK, had a P38 that would not accept the EKA code to re-initialise the system. The alarm made
a beep every time he opened the driver's door. The problem was traced to a sticky/corroded driver's door handle. If the door handle is
not fully retracted, the system will not accept the EKA. A squirt of WD40 or similar and a vigorous working of the handle enabled him to
put the code in. This seems to be a relatively common symptom as it was suggested as a possible cause by a main dealer.
Shaun notes that when the vehicle is immobilized, diagnosis is rather hit and miss on early models such as the one he was working on.
This is because the vehicle will not talk to T4 diagnostics if immobilised, whereas later models will.
Alternative "Key in Position II" Disarming Procedure
An alternative procedure for getting the system out of disabled mode is to disconnect the battery, and
reconnect it with the key in position II. Steve Glover of New Zealand tried this with great success on his 1999
Range Rover Autobiography. "We recently lost the only key that worked by remote on the vehicle. Our second key had stopped
working remotely on the vehicle a couple of years ago, our dealership told us it was impossible to fix and we needed to buy a new one.
We used this key to try the “key turn method” of EKA but to no avail no matter how it was done it would not disarm the alarm. We then
towed the vehicle home with the alarm tooting its head off. We kept trying the key turn method at home but [it had no effect]." Steve
offer the following details of how he succeeded with the alternative "key in position II" procedure:
1/ Open the Vehicle manually with the key (the alarm will be going off the whole time) and open the bonnet (it is extremely Important
to leave the bonnet and the door open or you may be locked out).
2/ Disconnect the main 12 volt vehicle battery.
3/ Put key in ignition and turn to position II.
4/ Reconnect the Battery.(window unset alarms will be going off)
5/ Start the engine then push the lock and unlock buttons on the key while the engine is running.
6/ Open and close all the windows to reset them.
7/ You are done.
For Steve, the method worked better than expected. It not only reset the alarm and engine immobilizer, it also made the second key
work as a remote again! Steve even feels this method might be the first one you try instead of the EKA method. Mike Coleman
reports he tried it on his UK model when he did not have the correct EKA code available, but it did not work for
him. However Jimmy Kander reports that he tried it on his 1999 with great success: "I have a 99 black North
American Range Rover. The stupid thing wouldnt start saying engine disabled, check remote. The key turning
did not work, but disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with the key in position 2 worked!"
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Gearbox fault is low voltage
 

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The keyswitch microswitch in the drivers door latch has failed. When you turn the key, the mechanical linkage is doing the unlocking, the CDL switch is being operated but the keyswitch isn't. As it doesn't know you've turned the key, it thinks you have smashed the window and unlocked the door by pulling the sill locking button up. You need to get the door panel off, disconnect the plugs to the latch and siumulataneously ground the Green/Red and Blue/Red wires in the cabling from the latch to the door outstation. This will unlock the doors and turn off the immobiliser.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank You to everyone for your timely and helpful responses. Richard, I appreciate the cut and paste. Very comprehensive.
I will not be able to address anything until Monday. Spending the day removing snow from the roof of the home, the result of a recent 3' snowfall. More coming in next few day. All the more reason to get truck back on the road. Easily the best winter vehicle I have owned. Will keep you posted.
 

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2002 HSE, located South Shore of Lake Superior, Wisconsin. Truck stranded me 50 miles from home. Had locked it manually, remotes not synched. Came back 3 hours later, unlocked manually, alarm sounds when open drivers door. No other doors open. Message indicates "Engine Disabled". Went back next day, disconnected battery cables, touched them together. Reconnected battery. Same results. Tried the LRLR key Security Code entry. Same results. Had local indy shop pick up truck on flat bed. He has tried same processes, same results. He lacks adequate diagnostic equipment. Truck has Scotty BECM and ECU. Using his Security Code. Message among other usual after disconnecting battery, is no longer "Engine Disabled", but "Gearbox Fault".
I know there are many posts on this, but I don't know how to access them, since format change. Please help me to either access those posts, and/or provide any advise.
Greatly Appreciated
Dan Zei
Holy smokes.
It works.
I've been screwed for a week and a half.
Just heard all
The keyswitch microswitch in the drivers door latch has failed. When you turn the key, the mechanical linkage is doing the unlocking, the CDL switch is being operated but the keyswitch isn't. As it doesn't know you've turned the key, it thinks you have smashed the window and unlocked the door by pulling the sill locking button up. You need to get the door panel off, disconnect the plugs to the latch and siumulataneously ground the Green/Red and Blue/Red wires in the cabling from the latch to the door outstation. This will unlock the doors and turn off the immobiliser.
I'd like to shake your hand and buy you a Daniel Webster ceegar.
I had been dealing with superlock problems for two weeks.
Just bought a 00p38 with this issue for 1400 bucks.
Can't believe I don't need to flatbed it to a 120 hrs guy.
Now on to changing out door lock and then a new Audi heater core through passenger footwell.
Dude thanks
 
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