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It’s getting a bit Autumnal ish in Oz, and with all the recent rain, I thought it was time to tackle a problem I’ve had with my P38 1999 Range Rover. The sunroof is “floppy” and leaks badly in the rain.

The fault is obvious: one side doesn’t close, leaving air whistling in. I could see immediately that this was because one of the cast iron spigots has snapped off this side, and it didn’t make a tight joint. When I took it apart, I found I’ve also got the other common fault – that of a snapped plastic runner.

I didn’t want to take out the entire sunroof (and hence ceiling liner) to fix this: I can get at the sunroof lifting arm without taking any of the gubbins out. Which saves about half a day’s work – it’s possible to get at most of the parts while it is still in the car.

I thought you might want to see some details. As I had quite a few people asking me about the repair for my skipping Alpine multi CD playerin my P38 (the 6 CD changer in the boot), I took photos all the way through again.

Firstly, open the sunroof fully, and remove the wind deflector by unscrewing the 2 torx screws. I was always curious as to why this silly bit of metal is there: try driving your P38 without one though, and the banging noise of the wind is incredible.



Then remove the 2 mechanism plastic covers by sliding them rearward.



Remove the 4 torex screws, and 2 C clips connecting the mechanism to the the sunroof panel.



Release the sunroof panel from the locating pins.



And at the front too



Lift up, and out, the sunroof: it helps to have 2 people to do this! Otherwise you can slide it through the car.

Now you can get at the mechanism. Remove the bar that holds the two sides together by taking out the four Phillips head screws.



Then remove the plastic cover over the cable by lifting up with a screwdriver.



To get at the slider, remove the front of the slider mechanism: this will give you an extra inch to get at the slider.



Pull it forward and out. Mine was snapped in two pieces.



So I've come up with another solution this weekend.

My first attempt to repair the broken plastic used glue & a tiny plastic splint. This fractured straight away.



After several attempts to fix the plastic slider, I used some brass sheet to build a splint that encased the snapped plastic, soldered at the front to a 12BA screw that just about fits into the plastic. I also tried copper wire, and that just fractured: there is a lot of stress on the sunroof puller. I also melted the plastic at the split, joined it together without glue... and lo, it holds.

File the whole lot down so the profile is the same as the original, and there ya go.



To replace the broken spigot in the arm, I drilled out the cast iron arm to 10BA tap at a 45 degree angle, tapped the hole to 10BA, and used a 10BA tempered steel socket head screw. Don't try brass: they snap! And equally, a cheese head screw digs up the plastic it slots into: a socket head screw was the only thing I had left after I raided the toolbox that would work.

OK, it looks crude, but works a treat. And saves me the odd hundred quid into the bargain.



While you are here, and before you replace everything, I’d clear the drains out. There are four in the sunroof: my front two were clogged with loads of muck. Pushing a cable down them seemed to work wonders.



The strip around the sunroof seems to go rusty and this expansion means it doesn’t make a good seal. Again, take it off, and clean it.



Put it all back into the motor, adjust those torx screws at the back so that the sunroof sits firmly and level in the roof (the torx screws are in slots so you can move them and and down a bit to adjust) and bingo… the top of my head now stays dry.
 

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Very nice writeup! With really nice step by step pictures.

Now, I won't be afraid to use my sunroof anymore. Last time it broke indie charged me something like $600 to fix.

I give my vote, not that it really counts, that this instruction be in the mainpage!

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's odd - I can see the photos, but some people have PMed me to say they can't... and I can't edit the post to change the URL. So, now I've moved the pictures to flickr, here is another go...

I thought it was time to tackle a problem I’ve had with my P38 1999 Range Rover. The sunroof is “floppy” and leaks badly in the rain.

The fault is obvious: one side doesn’t close, leaving air whistling in. I could see immediately that this was because one of the cast iron spigots has snapped off this side, and it didn’t make a tight joint. When I took it apart, I found I’ve also got the other common fault – that of a snapped plastic runner.

I didn’t want to take out the entire sunroof (and hence ceiling liner) to fix this: I can get at the sunroof lifting arm without taking any of the gubbins out. Which saves about half a day’s work – it’s possible to get at most of the parts while it is still in the car.

I thought you might want to see some details. As I had quite a few people asking me about the fix for my skipping Alpine multi CD player in my P38, I took photos all the way through again.

Firstly, open the sunroof fully, and remove the wind deflector by unscrewing the 2 torx screws. I was always curious as to why this silly bit of metal is there: try driving your P38 without one though, and the banging noise of the wind is incredible.


Then remove the 2 mechanism plastic covers by sliding them rearward.


Remove the 4 torex screws, and 2 C clips connecting the mechanism to the the sunroof panel.


Release the sunroof panel from the locating pins.


And at the front too


Lift up, and out, the sunroof: it helps to have 2 people to do this! Otherwise you can slide it through the car.

Now you can get at the mechanism. Remove the bar that holds the two sides together by taking out the four Phillips head screws.


Then remove the plastic cover over the cable by lifting up with a screwdriver.


To get at the slider, remove the front of the slider mechanism: this will give you an extra inch to get at the slider.


Pull it forward and out. Mine was snapped in two pieces.


My first attempt to repair the broken plastic used glue & a tiny plastic splint. This fractured straight away.


After several attempts to fix the plastic slider, I used some brass sheet to build a splint that encased the snapped plastic, soldered at the front to a 12BA screw that just about fits into the plastic. I also tried copper wire, and that just fractured: there is a lot of stress on the sunroof puller. I also melted the plastic at the split, joined it together without glue... and lo, it holds.

File the whole lot down so the profile is the same as the original, and there ya go.


To replace the broken spigot in the arm, I drilled out the cast iron arm to 10BA tap at a 45 degree angle, tapped the hole to 10BA, and used a 10BA tempered steel socket head screw. Don't try brass: they snap! And equally, a cheese head screw digs up the plastic it slots into: a socket head screw was the only thing I had left after I raided the toolbox that would work.

OK, it looks crude, but works a treat. And saves me the odd hundred quid into the bargain.


While you are here, and before you replace everything, I’d clear the drains out. There are four in the sunroof: my front two were clogged with loads of muck. Pushing a cable down them seemed to work wonders.


The strip around the sunroof seems to go rusty and this expansion means it doesn’t make a good seal. Again, take it off, and clean it.


Put it all back into the motor, adjust those torx screws at the back so that the sunroof sits firmly and level in the roof (the torx screws are in slots so you can move them and and down a bit to adjust) and bingo… the top of my head now stays dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
...just to append my OP.

I've found after a month of use that the splint & the screw are holding up well, however it's digging slightly into the plastic slot. Hence I've now laid down some brass strip in the slot, which acts as a runner for the screw, and also slightly tightens it up so the sunroof doesn't vibrate or bounce slightly when off road (on the rare occasions when I take the cursed P38 off anything other than very smooth tarmac).

For my next trick I'll try and work out why the auto-dip mirrors now go up, rather than down, when I put the P38 into reverse... odd...
 

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99 range rover sunroof won't close all the way and will not vent. I began following HOW TO instructions to Repair sunroof tilt/slide in a Range Rover P38
But, the sunroof will not vent in the back so that i can get to the rear torex screws to release the sunroof panel. The sunroof opens all the way but won't close all the way and will not vent in the back. Any suggestions. :?:
 

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Lorkers
I'm new to RR.net, but not new to RRovers... I spotted your post on the sunroof repairs, looks great but I cant see any images with the text.
Is there a chance you would be able to repost or email to me?
I'm beside myself - second time in 18 months my sunroof has buggered up. Last time I replaced the whole unit on advice from a secondhand dealer in Adelaide - big bucks. Can't face doing it all over again - would be great to see your post... I think the little plastic struts have snapped.
macca64
 

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I have the same problem but wonder if i could just buy the part and put it in? Wonder what it would cost? I knew here and would also like to sale my 1990 Range Rover Country it was to be a restoration project but I never got to it. I really would like to see some one get it and enjoy it at the top of it's game! I really love these truck their amazing!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I am having same problem with my 02 RR-one side doesn't lift completely to close or vent. Can't get to the mechanism because on the bad side because it won't vent--anyone have a fix?
 

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Break off the trim piece covering the screws and replace it. Thay are only a couple of bucks at the breaker or simply go without.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My sunroof would go back and fourth but neither of the rear sides would seat properly in the closed position nor would it vent. I disassembled it and the track pieces and noticed the raising bars each had both tits in place, however, the ends of the pieces that go into the outside tracks seemed to be broken off about an inch from where the raising arms mechanism sits. I searched and found pictures of the raising bars that people posted when they either broke-off tits or if the track rail sliding piece snapped but they were all close-up shots of the broken piece and not any of the entire raising mechanism. I have uploaded a picture of one of mine. Can someone upload a picture of the entire arm piece to give me an idea of how much length the sliding track connecting piece is suppose to be, measurement of the length of the entire piece and an OEM number for the part (if they sell them individually)? Thanks, Dean
 

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