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Discussion Starter #1
Had a massive overheat issue out in the woods. I limped it back home by stopping and filling with clean water. By the final refill it was really not taking new water. I don't under stand it. Most of the times I opened the reservoir let it all boil out and wait it would cool then take 1-2 gallons. The last time I wouldn't take its cool water infusion. Got her home, pretty bad.... I feel terrible. Should've towed her. The last leg there was smoke coming from the valve covers burning off the oil. It was that bad. I was sure it was toast.

I didn't think it would freeze last night and after the ordeal I was just happy to be home.

This morning I went to check the damage. There's no coolant in the oil. Do I trust a hope? Seriously? We will see....

Went to fill the reservoir with real 100% coolant and only got half a gallon into the top before it stop taking water. ICED up. I fired to motor to warm it up and dump the ice. Belt screaching around the water pump I could tell that it was either seized or frozen by the water left over. I really though I had an almost empty water supply. Taking the belt off I was unable to manually move the water pump.

With the weather below 32 today and tomorrow... I don't know how I can melt out this water before it does more damage to the gaskets and internals. Poor boiling water? Electric Heaters? How can I tell if the ice is high enough to be in the head causing damage to the heads? Run the engine without belt for 5-10 min? Not sure what to to tomorrow.
 

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Reminds me of blowing an overflow plug on an old Bentley. I was in the middle of nowhere ann empty on coolant. Fixed the plug and hoped there was enough "coolant" in the block for the next morning. No such luck. I removed the belt, started the engine, let it run for a couple minutes then shut it down. Waited five minutes and repeated... and repeated. after about 20 minuted I had warmed thigns up enough to where I would have full circulation again. Reinstalled the belt, shut down all of the climate control to eliminate the heater core colling capability and drove to the nearest auto parts house. If a parts house is far away place cardboard infront of yout radiator until tyou get here to reduce the cooling. Once there you can dump the hose water out of the radiator which will leave a pretty huge amount of water in your system. Top off with straight coolant and drive a few miles to burp and mix. Top off as needed...
 

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When you are back home or somewhere that you may have better facilites than a parking lot like I had, flush and doo a full coolant change so you know your mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm worried about it over night tonight, So wow, really think I should run it frozen without belt for 5-10 min? I have no idea what is in the heads, Emptiness or ice, think it'll damage the heads to heat up the ice to drain it all out? I'm thinking of going out there right now....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi, Sounds like an horrific experience, Did you find out what caused it to overheat? Was it the water pump seized? It could work out expensive to keep filling up the anti freeze to have it evaporate somewhere! I'm trying to chase down my overheating problem atm. No sign of oil in the water or on the oil cap, and the spark plugs are not steam cleaned either. I'll have to get it tested for gases next. But with winter on the way I think I'll just drain the water from the cooling system, (what damage could be done if the coolant did freeze?).
Is it really that cold in Colorado already!!
Good luck with your repairs!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've been dealing with this slow leak for a long time now, but I feel like this was a little different. Just that it was seriously not taking any coolant.

Also its not coolant frozen in there, its pure water from the emergency refills. I'm worried ice could blow out the head gasket.

I'm trying to decide if I should run the motor without the belt attached to unfreeze the water pump or if that will cause damage.

The weather just now is freezing in Colorado. Its actually quit temperate most of the year. This happened on the first night in a long time it actually got to freezing temps.
 

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So wow, really think I should run it frozen without belt for 5-10 min?
I think you miss read. run for a couple minutes then let it sit 5-10 minutes. letting it sit gives any ice a chance to melt a bit before you run for another couple minutes and then let sit again.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Either way, it needs thawed before any more time elapses.
When the water thaws, cracked blocks follow as a rule. Water expands and has nowhere to go but outwards normally.....
Try to get some heat to it, but gently, as a big sudden change in temperature can also crack that nice aluminum under the hood. You could also try to get some undiluted antifreeze into the system via the top hose, heater hoses, header tank, etc etc etc. It needs thawed before it has a chance to do the block some damage that cannot be repaired.
I think Carl got lucky with his experiences, as most wouldn't be as fortunate as he was in my experiences. Seen it happen in diesels that didn't have the right coolant mix etc. with bad results.
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Adding undilluted anti freeze over night worked. The pump thing morning was free spinning and water had drained out of the radiator which I left the bottom ppip open. Engine spins up and sounds real nice without the belt. Followed RRToadHall's advice and drain about 6 ounces of water out. I used my Scotty's Rover Raiser to rock the truck forward and backward to drain as much out as possible. Pretty handy, Scotty.


Strange my valve block when attempting to lower without the accessory belt attached is making it's solonoid pops very loudly and failing to fill up the air springs. I have no idea on that one. I'll see if it stops after the alternator is spinning again tomarrow. without the rover raiser I'd have 5 more ounce of coolant inside the engine. Quizzically, it drains more out when it was nose in the air rather than tail. Red hose is the home air compressor filling the springs manually.

Tail in Air.jpg
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Glad to hear that the undiluted coolant worked for you. A very lucky escape!
And I agree, when doing any engine work, the Rover Raiser is an absolute must have item.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Today I tracked down the leak to a loose upper heater core hose (I'm using the Audi MOD) I could not get the 5/8s hose to connect so I assumed it was the wrong size and went to the O‘Reilly’s (two apostrophes are too much for any car parts store[what the hell was wrong with checker???]) Got some 1/4 inch adapters and junk and tried that.

No. It's 5/8... so, worried the delicate copper of the audi heater core would break as I flexed the thick tubing over it, I heated the rubber hose with a butane torch (crack pipe style) and miraculously it totally fit over the opening way farther than ever before. Now I cinched the hose down and filled with pure water to test for leaks. It did. Out of the bloody heater core hose I just so ingeniously jerry rigged. Shut her down and tightened the hose clap again finding that, with its new found cold rigidity was loose. Then it worked!

For a spell....

Then as I attempted the arduous and mysterious coolant refill plan of fill. heat, cool, fill, seal coolant reservoir, release gas, cool, then refill, run then test.

This pattern is my personal preferred voodoo to bleed/fill the air (I mean coolant) system. Once I finally felt I had all the air out, I set to running it at idle as a pre-drive test run. No leaks from the heater core, and no leaks from anywhere else! Now thinking to myself, I'll hot wire the compressor and fill the sunken derelict air ride while I wait.

That's when it happened! Pop! PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! Steam ejected all over the engine bay. Quickly I shut off the engine and looked for what sounded EXACTLY like a popped hose. I thought, now that the system is airtight for once it probably popped a loose hose from before. I found no loose hoses!

"Wow, when you have perfect pressure that coolant reservoir cap sure blows off steam loudly! HAHAHAHAHAHAH.... Yea. Well, I filled her up again and ran the motor and set about to refill the air ride. Suddenly I noticed a huge leak coming from below the engine. I thought I missed the water pump bottom hose so I shut her off again and looked. This time the dripping water revealed an interesting piece of hardware which was laying below the rear main seal on the ground.

OH, I said to myself joyfully, this is where all the water is coming from! Now I can finally go to the bar and quit for tonight.

So I utter darkness and despair I ask:

IS this a freeze plug for our engines?



And then I ask… what now? Toyota Land Cruiser? 4Runner? (what a stupid name) Back the the Jeep Grand Cherokee. Sell for parts? Stop over exaggerating, sack up and hammer that silly little thing back in? What now? What……… now? *looks up into the night sky mournfully*
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WEll ok. I'll describe it like fricking caveman.

Object suspected to be a freeze plug is made of brass, conicaldisk shapped with a shiny hollow side and a rusty dome side. The sides of this dome are vertical in comparison to the rest of it. It's about 1.25 inches diameter.

It looks like a freeze plug. Or does it?
 

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Sounds like a core/freeze plug, but not from the rear seal area as these would have just dropped into the bellhousing (or on the flywheel) not saying these are ok either.

The obvious response is go underneath and look, you'll see a gaping hole, 3 each side of the V, i think.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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2 in the rear of the motor, 3 on either side IIRC.
I am using my new laptop, with no fotos on it, but will try to find a picture of a bare block I posted on the site for you to judge for yourself etc.
The rear freeze plugs would have to go around the fjywheel before landing on the ground, assuming the inspection cover is removed?

Martin

EDIT. Found some pictures in this thread of mine:
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/32665-motor-tear-down-follow-along.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok. Its a freeze plug.

But what now? Can you just hammer this thing back in? It popped when I was refilling the coolant after I found the leak and fixed it. Does this indicate the engine needs to be completely rebuilt? Or can I just be put back in?

Basically, what next? (in despair)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Sounds to me like it did it's job.
The freeze plugs are there to pop out, before the unfrozen water expands enough to crack the block itself.
They are mainly used now as casting plugs, but still do the original function quite well. Although that is the first one I have heard of doing so in a number of years!
Grab a new one, some Permatex number 1, and reinstall. Keep fingers crossed, and if all is well, drive.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well Maybe it did do its job. However, it didn't pop till after I was in a refill cycle. I'm worried that the other plugs or other internals are damaged, what do you think the likelyhood of this is?

You said there are plugs on the bell housing?? Does this mean the other plugs are probably partly pushed out and could blow off into the transmission?? How badly damaged is this thing?

You said I should get a new plug, the old one is damaged once pushed out? A friend told me your should always get a machine shop to press these back in. I'm wary of any internal engine work, but these things look like they just literally pop in... should a specialist be used?

Colorado is very nice this time of year, Martin! Heh.
 

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If it didn't pop out. Move into a warm garage for a day. Drain the fluid. Take a hammer and a socket that is the same diameter as the freeze plug

Place socket on freeze plug. Pound the plug back in. Refill with 50/50 dexcool. Done. Drive it until it blows up. These engines are not fancy. Just hard to find used ones.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using AutoGuide App
 
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