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Discussion Starter #1
:lol: So, as the title says, How tight should the nuts be on the wheel hubs of my '01 4.6 HSE Range Rover? I've been trying to identify that howl coming from my front diff, (For those of you who aren't up to date on my problem, my '01 4.6 HSE Range Rover howls at 52 - 75 MPH, it's a high pitch vibration coming out of the front diff, and I can feel it in the steering wheel and it goes "Whoooooooo" --Very annoying.) and was trying to take the wheel hub nut off, to pull the axle out, and so far I've snapped the head off of my 1/2" Drive Torque wrench and when I use my regular 1/2" drive with a 3 foot pipe, (to convince it that I will eventually win) I still can't move it at all. Any suggestions?? Will I burn up any seals if I use a Torch on it? I've never seen a wheel nut put on so tight! - even on big rigs. Seems to me if that bolt is too tight, that could make my wheel bearings howl. :think: I've got it in the garage, up on 4 jack stands, with the tires about an inch and a half off the ground, and I ran it up to 75 MPH and got absolutely NO NOISE!!, none, nadda, zilch, not a peep, ran perfectly quiet and normal. :x I'm open to any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:clap: thanks, I needed that. It seems so long since I laughed, :lol: you managed to turn my frown upside down for a little while, now how about my nut problem, should they be so hard to remove? :think: My Rave says it should be torqed to 200 lbs. Am I reading that right?.
 
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I guess it doesn't matter how tight they should be if you are taking them off. Are you sure you are turning the nut in the right direction? I think the passenger side [for the US] would need to be turned clockwise to undo it. I may be wrong though, can't be bothered to look at Rave.
 
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Ok, I did have a look and I can't see where it says the thread is a left handed thread [that doesn't mean it's not though]

It does say that the hub nut is torqued to 260Nm though. :wink:
 

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Although I don't own one myself I have read that a 3/4" bar does the job more readily. Have you unstaked the nut. That might help it a bit. I use a pin punch ground flat on one side and tap it in using the slot in the axle as a slide. From what I gather the tightness of the nut has no negative affect on the bearing since it is tightening against the inner race and does not put a preload on the outer bearing race so the balls should remain easy to roll. I think the pinion nut on the diff unit can be affected by improper tightening and cause heat build-up. There is a post about this issue on here. I believe post is by Goswin. Good luck.
 

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I had one of those on my wife's Disco front left wheel. Just about killed myself, destroyed very tool I own, used a 3 ft pipe - Nada! Had a brainwave took it down to the shop where they flitted her new tyres - they got it off 3 guys with a 6 foot pipe, and earned a 6 pack for their troubles - should have thought of that before I cracked a bone in my foot from trying to lever it off myself! Now I still need to replace my wheel braces and 1/2 inch drive and I'll be right.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well Jacekk, I just snapped the head off my 1/2 inch driver too with a three foot pipe. The wife was sitting in the truck looking out the window and it went bing!!! right across the floor and threw me right into the garage door. Then I noticed the head gone off the 24 inch, 200 lb torque wrench I bought a couple of years ago. Sooo thennnn I used my 1/2 inch Craftsman drive that I've had for 30 years, and tore the guts out of it. So we went to Sears and I got a new 1/2 in drive and I will not be testing it on the nuts. I think I'll take them to a shop down the street and say, "fix please", with a sack of suds, (and a big smile) with me. :lol:
 

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Maybe try to spray some penetrant/lube around it and let it work its way in for a little bit. You would be suprised how much that stuff works.
 

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Use a little heat on the nut from an oxy torch or blowlamp. Then, with a long bar and socket applied, jack under the end of the bar - it saves all that effort and broken feet and allows you to apply progressive torque until the nut yields ............ and you remain calm and not in danger throughout the process.
 

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Now, why didn't i think of that? Makes so much sense, use the weight of the car to undo it - can't be more than 2500 lbs of torque can it?
Thanks. One worth remembering.

Garvin said:
Use a little heat on the nut from an oxy torch or blowlamp. Then, with a long bar and socket applied, jack under the end of the bar - it saves all that effort and broken feet and allows you to apply progressive torque until the nut yields ............ and you remain calm and not in danger throughout the process.
 

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G'day guys .
YES you can and it's the easiest way to remove axles front or rear from the care if replacing a diff or seals.
You only need to remove hub stacker nut if you intend to replace bearings or whole hub unit :thumb:
With the rear the whole unit including disc and backing plate ,with the front you have to remove disc and backing plate to get CV through the wish bone?
Regards Graeme.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the responces, I pulled the axles with the hubs still attached so thats one problem solved, now if I could just find that diff noise all would be right in MY world again. Thank Yall.
 
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