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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've found a BEAUTIFUL white 2008 HSE L322 with almost 170,000 Miles on the clock. 6 owner truck and seems to have normal wear and tear aesthetically.

As far as miles go, how many miles are too much for these Jag engines? By this mileage I feel like it's safe to assume that mostly any major mechanical issues that could happen, have already happened and been repaired. I appreciate any input here. Thank you guys!

Best,
Ashtray

edit: The autocheck reports 1 accident and 6 owners.
 

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I've found a BEAUTIFUL white 2008 HSE L322 with almost 170,000 Miles on the clock. 2 owner truck and seems to have normal wear and tear aesthetically.

As far as miles go, how many miles are too much for these Jag engines? By this mileage I feel like it's safe to assume that mostly any major mechanical issues that could happen, have already happened and been repaired. I appreciate any input here. Thank you guys!

Best,
Ashtray
Jag engine in a 2008?


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Discussion Starter #4
I have a 2008 Range Rover she, and i was under the impression that. I had a jaguar engine???
You do. I'm not sure why the above user is surprised.
 
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Yes 2008 is either 4.4 NA Jag or 4.2 Supercharged. 4.4 is a nice engine with very little issues reported, maybe a little under powered for the weight of the car - depending on your driving style.

There are people here with 200k+ miles which should not be an issue with a well maintained vehicle (read fluid changes - normal useage). Type of mileage will also help, highway miles obviously be preferred.

Interiors seem to typically show relatively little wear and if yours is in excellent condition it likely was looked after and not trashed mechanically either.

Transmission oil change (~$200 and easily done by enthusiast home mechanic) is highly recommended as it often gets overlooked (suppose to be for life, but realistically probably good for ~150k)

Most likely your running cost would not need to be cheap though as you will have little things go wrong and you keep spending small amounts to keep it all in good condition, all manageable as long as you do it yourself (part of the fun!)
 

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Yes 2008 is either 4.4 NA Jag or 4.2 Supercharged. 4.4 is a nice engine with very little issues reported, maybe a little under powered for the weight of the car - depending on your driving style.

There are people here with 200k+ miles which should not be an issue with a well maintained vehicle (read fluid changes - normal useage). Type of mileage will also help, highway miles obviously be preferred.

Interiors seem to typically show relatively little wear and if yours is in excellent condition it likely was looked after and not trashed mechanically either.

Transmission oil change (~$200 and easily done by enthusiast home mechanic) is highly recommended as it often gets overlooked (suppose to be for life, but realistically probably good for ~150k)

Most likely your running cost would not need to be cheap though as you will have little things go wrong and you keep spending small amounts to keep it all in good condition, all manageable as long as you do it yourself (part of the fun!)
I think what’s saved a lot of people (more) headaches is cutting the fluid change intervals in half. You don’t run even synthetic oil for 15,000 miles despite what the manual says. Would you trust Dexcool or your transmission fluid for 150k?

These intervals were written with owner convenience in mind (one service a year if you drive 15k a year) but come at the cost that the vehicle will be absolutely DONE (stick a fork in) at 150k miles.


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Discussion Starter #7
Well I drove her. Engine still showed plenty of pull and felt very tight transmission wise. Everything works from cruise control, power sidemirrors, wipers, special driving modes, heated steering wheel etc. I couldn't find anything that didn't work electrically. Paint is in great condition. Didnt smoke from the engine bay but tail pipes showed a slight white smoke granted it was about 45-50 degrees out. I tried smelling it but the BBQ smokehouse next door had literally just lit a pile of wood so no luck. Has brand new Pirelli Scorpions. The engine bay is CLEAN. I mean the coils look new, doesn't look like its ever been seriously offroaded. There were 2 or 3 rusty looking objects I couldn't identify. No visible drips by the expansion tank or power steering. All lights work everywhere.

The bad:
Has rust spot/paint bubbles in right rear quarter panel.
Pulls to right quite a bit which has me suspicious because I believe this is where its accident occurred. Haven't pulled the carfax but just might tonight so I'll get more details there.
Power steering whines quite audibly ONLY upon right hand turns.
Has coil suspension.(red coils) if it helps narrow down brand.
Has 2 cigarette burns. 1 in passenger front seat and one blemish burn near 4x4 info button on nav screen. Has about 4 or 5 spots where the leather was either poked or slit. The rest of the leather appears great.
Right passenger sun visor doesn't have a retaining clip so it slightly flops.
Rear entertainment plugs are missing the floppy cover flap.
It used to have some type of sound system as I was able to see aftermarket wiring under rear cargo deck around the spare(which is full size) does this mean locking diff was optioned on it?
The hood release latch is broken and needs to be pulled open with pliers. Funny story about the latch, we tried pulling it open and we basically pulled out about one and a half feet of what looked like sprung coil wire. That finally showed some metal wire in it and then we pinched on that with the pliers and it worked just fine.
Needs a new battery. Every time I turned it off we had to use a battery jumper to turn it back on. After a 30 minutes cruise I turned it off and then it turned back on on its own juice. Sat for about 5 min and dead again.
Hood struts need replacing.
Does not currently have any Land Rover key fobs. Just an aftermarket cut key with no alarm buttons. Central locks work and when locked from outside all doors respond.


All in all I liked it a lot. I'm wanting to trade my Infiniti for it which is worth much more so if they can make an offer of handing over the keys plus a nice check then I think I'll do it. They showed a lot of interest in my Infiniti so I'm just waiting now to see what they come up with.

Thoughts?
 

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i have a range rover 2008 with 169 k miles and i luv this vehicle.. i say that with a good tool. ( i have the iland, this forum and a mechanic or a do it yorselfer) this is a great vehicle.
 

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Well I drove her. Engine still showed plenty of pull and felt very tight transmission wise. Everything works from cruise control, power sidemirrors, wipers, special driving modes, heated steering wheel etc. I couldn't find anything that didn't work electrically. Paint is in great condition. Didnt smoke from the engine bay but tail pipes showed a slight white smoke granted it was about 45-50 degrees out. I tried smelling it but the BBQ smokehouse next door had literally just lit a pile of wood so no luck. Has brand new Pirelli Scorpions. The engine bay is CLEAN. I mean the coils look new, doesn't look like its ever been seriously offroaded. There were 2 or 3 rusty looking objects I couldn't identify. No visible drips by the expansion tank or power steering. All lights work everywhere.

The bad:
Has rust spot/paint bubbles in right rear quarter panel.
Pulls to right quite a bit which has me suspicious because I believe this is where its accident occurred. Haven't pulled the carfax but just might tonight so I'll get more details there.
Power steering whines quite audibly ONLY upon right hand turns.
Has coil suspension.(red coils) if it helps narrow down brand.
Has 2 cigarette burns. 1 in passenger front seat and one blemish burn near 4x4 info button on nav screen. Has about 4 or 5 spots where the leather was either poked or slit. The rest of the leather appears great.
Right passenger sun visor doesn't have a retaining clip so it slightly flops.
Rear entertainment plugs are missing the floppy cover flap.
It used to have some type of sound system as I was able to see aftermarket wiring under rear cargo deck around the spare(which is full size) does this mean locking diff was optioned on it?
The hood release latch is broken and needs to be pulled open with pliers. Funny story about the latch, we tried pulling it open and we basically pulled out about one and a half feet of what looked like sprung coil wire. That finally showed some metal wire in it and then we pinched on that with the pliers and it worked just fine.
Needs a new battery. Every time I turned it off we had to use a battery jumper to turn it back on. After a 30 minutes cruise I turned it off and then it turned back on on its own juice. Sat for about 5 min and dead again.
Hood struts need replacing.
Does not currently have any Land Rover key fobs. Just an aftermarket cut key with no alarm buttons. Central locks work and when locked from outside all doors respond.


All in all I liked it a lot. I'm wanting to trade my Infiniti for it which is worth much more so if they can make an offer of handing over the keys plus a nice check then I think I'll do it. They showed a lot of interest in my Infiniti so I'm just waiting now to see what they come up with.

Thoughts?
Rust: if not rusted through you can sand down yourself after applying some naval jelly, cover with wax until you’re ready to get it painted

Pull to the right: likely worn control arm bushing, these always go

Power steering noise: don’t think too hard about it until you get the pull addressed

Coil suspension: GOOD

Missing clips / caps: eBay and Atlantic British!

Any hood or hatch struts: Give MaxPow a chance on Amazon. They sell a pack of both hood and both hatch struts for around $50 combined!

Sound system: good find! Maybe someone already ran you some heavy gauge wire to the cargo compartment! They might have been thinking sound system, I’m thinking second battery!!!

Full size spare: ASSUMING owner did not replace himself, yes, a factory full size spare denotes both locking diff AND full skids underneath. (Confirm on your 4x4 display)

Hood latch: try the easy way first. Buy a new one and try to just snap or epoxy the new plastic paddle on the existing stub. If no stub you may have to replace entire length. Worth a shot!

Needs battery: unfortunately a reality. Series 95 or series 49 are not cheap ($150 for THE cheapest and the rest are $200+). It is an AGM so that may factor into price as well. You must pop off hood struts to gain extra range of motion to replace battery.


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I don't know, that list could be fairly costly. Pulling to the left and steering pump whine could be a replacement steering rack in your future. Not a cheap part. To me coils indicate a desire to take short cuts instead of fixing. I would get to the bottom of the extra wiring. To me, partially removed modifications back up my thoughts on coils. I think all '08's have full size spares but only SC had locking rear diff but not certain of that. They main issue with 170k miles is that you aren't leaving yourself that much room for your own miles. How long do you want to keep it? What about tires and brakes? It doesn't really matter their condition, just know if replacements need to be factored into price.
Not trying to dissuade you on this RR, just throwing out some counterpoints with best intentions.
 

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I don't know, that list could be fairly costly. Pulling to the left and steering pump whine could be a replacement steering rack in your future. Not a cheap part. To me coils indicate a desire to take short cuts instead of fixing. I would get to the bottom of the extra wiring. To me, partially removed modifications back up my thoughts on coils. I think all '08's have full size spares but only SC had locking rear diff but not certain of that. They main issue with 170k miles is that you aren't leaving yourself that much room for your own miles. How long do you want to keep it? What about tires and brakes? It doesn't really matter their condition, just know if replacements need to be factored into price.
Not trying to dissuade you on this RR, just throwing out some counterpoints with best intentions.
Not to hijack this thread but I have a ‘12 L322 S/C and I’m curious if by virtue of being supercharged it had the locking diff and / or skids as well.


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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I don't know, that list could be fairly costly. Pulling to the left and steering pump whine could be a replacement steering rack in your future. Not a cheap part. To me coils indicate a desire to take short cuts instead of fixing. I would get to the bottom of the extra wiring. To me, partially removed modifications back up my thoughts on coils. I think all '08's have full size spares but only SC had locking rear diff but not certain of that. They main issue with 170k miles is that you aren't leaving yourself that much room for your own miles. How long do you want to keep it? What about tires and brakes? It doesn't really matter their condition, just know if replacements need to be factored into price.
Not trying to dissuade you on this RR, just throwing out some counterpoints with best intentions.
Forgot to mention I'd plan to keep it for about 5 years.

Steering rack makes me worry. I do have an indy on stand by ready to do a full pre-purchase inspection. He is a honest good Land Rover mechanic that has done a lot of work for me in the past. Charges $90 bucks for a hardcore inspection including a computer check of all ecu's on board, checks block, trans, brakes, electrics. Tires are brand new Pirelli Scorpions. Brakes felt fine, but obviously would be inspected by my tech.

I had the same idea about partially removed mods, like the sub./wiring. As for it being on coils, some folks just don't want to ride on air so I can't weigh that as a pro/con in judging the vehicle as a whole.
I will say, it drove fantastic. I floored it a hand full of times and it took itself all the way through the revs, shifted great and as soon as I let off the pedal it knew what to do. Also, in Sport mode, downshifted was great. Had plenty of gear to bring down the revs/speed all without needing brakes.

i have a range rover 2008 with 169 k miles and i luv this vehicle.. i say that with a good tool. ( i have the iland, this forum and a mechanic or a do it yorselfer) this is a great vehicle.
How long have you owned it? Since what mileage and what have you done in repairs?

Rust: if not rusted through you can sand down yourself after applying some naval jelly, cover with wax until you’re ready to get it painted

Pull to the right: likely worn control arm bushing, these always go

Power steering noise: don’t think too hard about it until you get the pull addressed

Coil suspension: GOOD

Missing clips / caps: eBay and Atlantic British!

Any hood or hatch struts: Give MaxPow a chance on Amazon. They sell a pack of both hood and both hatch struts for around $50 combined!

Sound system: good find! Maybe someone already ran you some heavy gauge wire to the cargo compartment! They might have been thinking sound system, I’m thinking second battery!!!

Full size spare: ASSUMING owner did not replace himself, yes, a factory full size spare denotes both locking diff AND full skids underneath. (Confirm on your 4x4 display)

Hood latch: try the easy way first. Buy a new one and try to just snap or epoxy the new plastic paddle on the existing stub. If no stub you may have to replace entire length. Worth a shot!

Needs battery: unfortunately a reality. Series 95 or series 49 are not cheap ($150 for THE cheapest and the rest are $200+). It is an AGM so that may factor into price as well. You must pop off hood struts to gain extra range of motion to replace battery.


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See I've got the same mentality and figured the exact same as everything you've said. Sorry, but what is Series 95 or Series 49? What is AGM?



I forgot to mention, how much does it cost to get OEM fobs and have them programmed to these trucks?
 

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I don't know, that list could be fairly costly. Pulling to the left and steering pump whine could be a replacement steering rack in your future. Not a cheap part. To me coils indicate a desire to take short cuts instead of fixing. I would get to the bottom of the extra wiring. To me, partially removed modifications back up my thoughts on coils. I think all '08's have full size spares but only SC had locking rear diff but not certain of that. They main issue with 170k miles is that you aren't leaving yourself that much room for your own miles. How long do you want to keep it? What about tires and brakes? It doesn't really matter their condition, just know if replacements need to be factored into price.
Not trying to dissuade you on this RR, just throwing out some counterpoints with best intentions.
I agree with NorCal RR. These are complicated machines and any butchering indicates shortcuts and could impact something else which together makes for difficult troubleshooting and repairs. Also in terms of resale this might be hard to get rid of when you have/want to. I can understand coil springs as a choice for a rough and ready overlander, but it looks like this car has been street driven mainly. Given the comfort that air provides why would you want change to coils? I have owned a few rovers with air and they are not hard to keep in good order with correct aftermarket parts available at reasonable cost.
 

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See I've got the same mentality and figured the exact same as everything you've said. Sorry, but what is Series 95 or Series 49? What is AGM?
They’re just really big (interchangeable) battery sizes. AGM is just a newer safer style of battery compared with conventional lead-acid.


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Not to hijack this thread but I have a ‘12 L322 S/C and I’m curious if by virtue of being supercharged it had the locking diff and / or skids as well.
I think that up through '09, the receiver hitch was standard equipment and the locking diff came standard on the SC models. In '10-'12, they created the tow package and not every RR had the hitch. The locking diff became part of the tow package. I'm not sure this is true, just seems so based on many threads on the subject. My '12 didn't come with the tow package and doesn't have the locking diff, despite being an SC. Visual verification is easy, just look for the lump on the drivers side, upper diff housing from below. I would be curious to understand why the locking diff is part of the tow package, heavier gears/bearings?
 

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I think that up through '09, the receiver hitch was standard equipment and the locking diff came standard on the SC models. In '10-'12, they created the tow package and not every RR had the hitch. The locking diff became part of the tow package. I'm not sure this is true, just seems so based on many threads on the subject. My '12 didn't come with the tow package and doesn't have the locking diff, despite being an SC. Visual verification is easy, just look for the lump on the drivers side, upper diff housing from below. I would be curious to understand why the locking diff is part of the tow package, heavier gears/bearings?
“Build and price” any vehicle today and there will be feature combination conflicts that are beyond explanation. L322 seems not to have been spared that nonsense. Perhaps package “stuffs” higher margin features in with desirable features to pad the deal.

I will see if I can get a pic today for you to help me determine.


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Discussion Starter #17
I pulled the carfax. Pretty much religious oil changes/recommended services up until about 65k to about 100k where there was nothing. Then the next owner picked back up with every 10k oil changes. New radiator about 20k miles ago. 2 minor accidents reported to front left areas, no airbag deployment. Car went from Florida, to North Carolina to Texas. Thinking of having my indy check it out.
 

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Carfax usually only has oil changes done by the dealer. So a blank in Carfax history doesn't mean it wasn't done. Considering that the display is going to constantly remind people, hopefully they got it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Decided to let this one go. Indy mechanic looked at her and just found to many little things that could end up being bigger the deeper we looked. On to the next one.

But now I know exactly what to look for on L322's. A great learning experience and no doubt I'll know for certain when I've found the right now.

Cheers.
 
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Wise decision. My experience tells me to always look for the car that is most original, unmolested and complete that might have some issues which are all within the known and easy to troubleshoot and fix category (with a clueless seller ideally).
 
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