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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of finally using a can of BG 44K that I've had for a while (and doing an oil change soon after). Which, brings me to my question. If I pour the BG 44K into a full gas tank, is it OK if the tank doesn't get consumed quickly? For obvious reasons, I'm not doing much driving as of late. So, it will be a while until I run down the gas. I know the BG 44K is probably a very strong chemical so it got me thinking if I should hold off on using the additive.

This will be used on the 5.0 SC engine.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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I am planning on using this product on my l405 5.0 sc and my new to me l322 4.2 sc. Are you going to do the engine flush as well?

i was reading some reviews on amazon and read some pretty scary stories about the engine flush causing massive knocking and all sorts of weird issues. I decided to not even bother doing the engine flush and just stick to the fuel cleaner.

I wish I was more help to your original question but I am curious to know the answer as well for the same reasons
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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A check of the BG 44K safety data sheet reveals a garden variety mix of old-school solvents including kerosene, naphtha solvent, and stoddard solvent, plus a very small amount of benzene. Same stuff as 1960s additives, and nothing exotic.

I suspect what were talking about here is chemical compatibility with elastomers, which is a fancy way of saying will the solvents harm rubber components in the engine or fuel system over time. In short, I suspect the container warnings will answer that, as will chemical compatibility charts for various elastomers. The can will likely warn you of any long-term exposure problems in your crankcase or fuel tank. If no warning, then not likely to be a problem.

You might look carefully through the engine oil filler cap with a flashlight for sludge and amber varnish. If none is present, there's likely no problem to fix, and new synthetic oil has pretty good solvency anyway, helping remove some of that stuff over time, at least sludge.

When attempting to clean sludge/varnish from engines, two common options are go fast (with a strong concentration), or go slow (with a weaker concentration over longer time). The better choice appears to be go slow, with less possibility to dislodge some sludge, varnish or carbon and clog an oil passage.

For gasoline additives -- which also may not even be needed -- the solvent of choice is PEA, polyetheramine. So look for that in safety data sheets, such as Techron and better Gumout products, as well as others (check their websites -- they like to brag about PEA, if present). Top Tier gasoline can prevent issues with their higher detergency. In the U.S., Shell claims their premium gas has seven times the detergents required by law, and can remove 70% of engine deposits over 2,500 miles in tests. So simply running a half-dozen tanks of that could theoretically help clean things up a bit, with no risk. (I'm taking them at their word.)

With name brand, reputable products, any likely risks, such as your original question, would normally be covered in the label instructions. Or not covered if it's not a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finally read through the can today. It doesn't list any warnings about prolonged use or permanence in the tank. Naphta and Naphthalene are listed in the mix, but not Polyetheramine.

I have about half a tank in the car at the moment. I think in my next outing, I'll add the can, fill up with top-tier gas for god mixing and see how it goes. For convenience, I usually stopped to get gas at 711, but recently a Mobil gas station opened near me...so i presume that should be Exxon/techron gas.
 

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BG 44k... It works. Here's my not so scientific research. My son ran a can through on his 2006 L322 4.4l NA with roughly 3 gallons of gas in the tank. Unintentionally he left it in over the course of a month, using it only a handful of times which I think helped the process. I happened to drive his truck afterward and noticed a huge difference in the throttle response between his truck compared to mine. Mine has less than 70k miles and felt like it had 50% less HP. His felt like it had a SC compared to mine, it was that much different. I didn't want to attribute the difference to BG 44k, I don't believe in these mechanic in a bottle solutions but knew there was a substantial difference in throttle response now between his and mine. So I cleaned my MAF sensor and checked my air filter. That helped a bit with mine but still the throttle response was not nearly the same. I bought plugs but haven't had the time to install them. When this covid thing hit, I figured it was the perfect time to try what he did so I bought a can and put it in when I had roughly 1/8th of a tank of gas and just let it sit, using it every day or two for short trips over the course of a couple of weeks. I started noticing the throttle response getting much more crisp. The engine now liked heading up to redline and quickly. The truck now runs out like a V8 should and feels like an extra 50-75 hp. Since the degradation of the fuel system was so gradual, I never realized how impaired it was . I guess I just got accustomed to Prius' accelerating faster than me and cutting me off all the time.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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I am planning on using this product on my l405 5.0 sc and my new to me l322 4.2 sc. Are you going to do the engine flush as well?

i was reading some reviews on amazon and read some pretty scary stories about the engine flush causing massive knocking and all sorts of weird issues. I decided to not even bother doing the engine flush and just stick to the fuel cleaner.

I wish I was more help to your original question but I am curious to know the answer as well for the same reasons
Problem with engine flush cleaners is thst their powerful detergents can pick-up all the crap deposited inside oil channels at once, possibly causing blockages and loss of pressure. Good oils have detergents in them as well, perhaps better/safer practice is to just decrease oil change intervals to, lets say, 3k miles for 2-3 times in a row.
 

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I use BG44K 1-2x a year depending on mileage. I haven't use the oil flush cause it's too much work for me and I'm lazy. I don't have any fancy opinions about how or if it seems to work, my Rovers run pretty good tho.

I've only put a few tanks of gas through the MY12AB after using it and it sat for 3-4 weeks before i finished the 1st tank. Anecdotally I've not noticed any adverse effects. I've only done 1 treatment on that L322 as ive only put 3k miles on it in the last year.

But i will say it's one of the only JLR approved additives and has been for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, last weekend I poured the can into half a tank and then filled with the fancy gas from Shell (I forget the name). Drove to DC and did a "drive by" in front of a church to congratulate a friend getting married....drove up and down the river for a bit since it was a nice day. Then, I went to VA to pick up some British beef pasties for dinner (yum!), then back home. I think I must have put about 100 miles that day. Of course, it's probably too soon, but I haven't noticed anything good or bad. But, I'll keep you all posted. :)

As mentioned above, oil changes will be key going forward. I've tried to reach the dealer in NY where my car was previously serviced. Rudely, I've received no response to my left voice messages or emails. I'm trying to get the service history and see how often the oil was changed. As for me, only a few months after I got the car it was treated to an oil change with the expensive OE castrol oil. This was last year in June. Already in the trunk, I have another box from Atlantic British with this year's oil change. I only put about 5k miles on the car last year. So, that yearly interval will work well going forward.
 
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