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I took my rover out today in 98F weather, probably wasn't the best idea, but I did. I took along my OBD scanner and it seemed to be ok staying at about 194 to 199F in the morning, it was about 80F outside at the time. After lunch, I took it back to work and it was roughly 93 or 94F outside and the temp was hovering around 199 to 202F and was starting to frighten me a bit. After work, when it was scorching out at 98 to 100F I went home, with the A/C on full blast of course and the temp seemed ok. EXCEPT when I would stop. It go up to about 206F and the gauge was moving near the red zone. Once home I decided to let it sit in the drive way with the a/c on and see how hot it actually gets. The gauge hit the red zone and the light would fluctuate on and off. The OBD scanner was reading the coolant temp as 210F. The front fans would kick on high when the A/C was engaged and would stay on even if the A/C was disengaged until the temp went down to 206F again. I know my gauge is off because, there is a short in the system so, I could cause the needle to move in the red zone and the light to come on by simply turning the headlights or heated seats on.

My question is, what is the normal operating temp range on these vehicles. I have done searches on the forum and it seems like 190F is the norm so I think mine is running a bit hotter than it should. Thanks in advance! :D
 

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mine sits on about 96 C (205f). reaches the red zone at about 99-101c (210-214f).

havent had issues touch wood for ages. Have a temp guage on it permanently now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mine sits on about 96 C (205f). reaches the red zone at about 99-101c (210-214f).

havent had issues touch wood for ages. Have a temp guage on it permanently now.
Does the needle stay in the middle at 96C?
 

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pretty well bang on 12 oclock, car seems to run at about 93- 94 which is about 11:45 on the dial since I put in new fan coupling and radiator.
 

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I ran my OBD2 and it ran a constant 211-212F and the temp gauge sat dead at 12:00 and never moved? What is the ideal temp? I spoke with a diesel mechanic friend and his opinion was that since it was an aluminum block the engine would run hotter than steel also the engine is designed to run hot from an emissions standpoint. What is the ideal running temperature? Where in the coolant loop is the measurement taken? Is this a barometer of engine health?

charliet
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There is something in Des Hammill's Rover V8 books IIRC somewhere saying the ideal is between 85 and 90 degrees C. However, as you've said, it is all down to reducing emmissions I suspect. Quite how the failure of heads and engines at such an alarming rate is helping the environment is beyond me but that's a separate arguement. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took my daily driver econo box out today and had the scanner on it to see what it was doing. The hottest it got was 196F at a stop light and was running at about 192F while driving. I talked to my mechanic on the phone and he said the typical range on vehicles is 190ish to 210-220 at the hottest. I asked him at what temp will damage start to be done, his response was "250F over time will destroy an engine". Apparently the rave manual states that the thermostat is fully open at 204F. I just really needed to know because my stupid gauge acts like a melt down is going to occur at any momment, most likely due to a short. The red light came on and it was just starting to scare me. I didn't think that 206F was overheating and just wanted to sleep at night knowing I wasn't destroying the engine :D. I really appreciate the input! I have also read the post about modifying the thermostat so the engine runs cooler, I am all for it! :thumb:
 

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Today, while driving with the A/C full blast on "LO", the air coming from the vents got warm suddenly and the needle started moving towards the right... i had to shut off the a/c and then fluctuated a bit before it went back to the middle. It's been pretty hot here in OC lately, yesterday was 98F and the temperature here as of late has been well in the 90s F.

How can I tell how hot mine is running?? Where would I put a temp gauge? I have an INNOVA 3110 OBD2 tool but I don't think it provides temperature status.

Thanks,

Rafael
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In order to get a measurement directly from the ETC, you need an OBD2 scanner with the ability to read the temp. I got my obd scanner for $7, ($27 with shipping) on ebay lol. It is a cheap little thing that plugs into a laptop's usb port and gives a whole list of variables. To be honest, your temperature fluctuation sounds like a gauge short. I find that the more electricity I use, the farther right the needle goes. Next time it does that, pull over and shut the engine down and then move the key to the III position and see if the needle goes center again. That is how I figured out mine was a short. I hate that stupid gauge, so until I get it fixed, i don't believe it lol. I just tag the obd port and laptop along and monitor it that way.
 

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Ok, so assuming my needle might not be indicating properly... what's the reason for the change in temperature from the air vents (cold to not cold). Thoughts?
 

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Hi

Problems with the AC suddenly not working anymore can be due to the disconnection of the signal to the compressor clutch by the high pressure switch.

In AC systems there is gas and liquid present at the same time so the pressure in the system is fixed with the temperature depending on the physical properties of the cooling medium. If you have your system charged with too much gas it is accumulating as liquid inside the condensor and the part of the condensor filled with liquid does not contribute to cooling of the gas anymore. This means the overall temperature in the condensor will go up higher and this combined with a high air temperature on a hot day can just trigger the high pressure switch. Once the switch has operated the HEAVAC ECU will detect and switch on the book sign and cease to give signal towards the clutch. The system can be reset by switching the engine off and restarting it after a minute or so.

I have had this symptoms once or twice when in heavy start/stop traffic for an extended time on a hot sunny day with ambient temperatures displayed at 48 to 50 degrees celcius. If it happens at lower temperatures you might have too much gas in your system. Not enough gas will prevent too high pressure but will reduce the efficiency and might trigger the low pressure switch with the same results of switching the AC off.

Regards

Jos
 

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lrscott said:
In order to get a measurement directly from the ETC, you need an OBD2 scanner with the ability to read the temp. I got my obd scanner for $7, ($27 with shipping) on ebay lol. It is a cheap little thing that plugs into a laptop's usb port and gives a whole list of variables. To be honest, your temperature fluctuation sounds like a gauge short. I find that the more electricity I use, the farther right the needle goes. Next time it does that, pull over and shut the engine down and then move the key to the III position and see if the needle goes center again. That is how I figured out mine was a short. I hate that stupid gauge, so until I get it fixed, i don't believe it lol. I just tag the obd port and laptop along and monitor it that way.
Heh Scott, your gauge issue is more likely to be a decaying/oil-saturated earth lead. Go through the 'electrical sticky' at the top of the list of P38 threads. Report back on that thread with the results of the tests - you'll get the help you need to fix it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Heh Scott, your gauge issue is more likely to be a decaying/oil-saturated earth lead. Go through the 'electrical sticky' at the top of the list of P38 threads. Report back on that thread with the results of the tests - you'll get the help you need to fix it. :)
Alright, thanks! I did notice while crawling under it that there was plenty of oil on all of the wires down there lol. The rover is going to sit for awhile cause it needs new tires in the front but, because of balancing I am going to replace all 4. I need to find a good set at a good price though :D , $850 from a local tire shop is not a good deal. I want to drive it around but, I can see where thread is starting to appear on the insides.
 
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