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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I'm looking for some guidance on how far I should go and what items are essential vs the real nice to do's while trying to sort my p38 for expedition.

To give some background on what might seem like a silly and "how long is a piece of string" type question I'm trying to avoid what happened on my last Rangie resto / prep. A classic that took us on a slippery slope I'm sure many have experienced before - It started out with a simple head gasket replacement and ended up with a rebuild over on to a new chassis !! I kid you not, but it really did sound like a good idea at the time !! Every time we took off one component we thought "well since we're down here" the next item could be cleaner or newer or rebuilt and then the next layer and next layer until we'd gone far enough that it made pefect sense not to put up with the slight ding in the chassis !! Not sure which smiley to use here !

So, please help me out before I go way overboard. My story starts here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/44016-iacv-wear.html - some rough running which plugs, leads and a new albeit aftermarket MAF didn't sort. I have a new coil pack which I decided to put in on the weekend and found a few interesting things and the start of the slope.

Firstly I noticed something interesting on the new exhaust system I had installed. The headers were dark when I got it, but are turning lighter after some use. I assume this is normal. What is a little unusual and whilst I can wield a wrench,read the RAVE and google,I'm a relative noobie and don't have enough experience to figure out why the pipes from cylinders 1 and 3 are already pure white whilst the others are barely changing color as in the image below :

Auto part Muffler


Please excuse the fuzzy cellphone pic, but it shows the difference clearly. I'm assuming the temp in the white pipes are higher rather than it being lower in the darker pipes as the darker coloring matches the other bank.

Then, removing some bits and bobs to get easier access to the coil and thinking I might want to look at cleaning or replacing injectors, I removed the plenum cover and again found something odd :

Auto part Engine Fuel line Carburetor Automotive engine part

Auto part Pipe Engine Metal


Firstly - that looks dirtier than I would have expected ! Any comments on if the service might be questionable looking like that with 178k km's on it ?

The area near the vacuum hose is different from the rest - is that normal ? Could it have been a vacuum leak or possibly fuel from the regulator ? Any long term negative side effects I need to consider ?

Lastly this :

Light Tire Wheel Wood Architecture


Again, please excuse the cellphone pic, but the rust / pitting on the pulley is still fairly clear ! Major concern ?

The plan was to get the injectors, intake and radiator cleaned and slapped everything back together,I'll probably end up whipping of the rockers and trying to seal those a little better. Given the state of things and hints being thrown at me as to the PO's attention to servicing what else should I be looking into "while I'm down there" :) ?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just to add, I don't have the figures handy, but I did a compression test and all cylinders were close and in the acceptable range. Will dig out the figures when I get home.
 

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I'd say if it is running fine after the coil swap then leave it alone before you end up with another chassis up restoration ! lol
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks ! I've told the wife it ain't going to happen , but even she doesn't believe me !

I can add some more data to the problem ! I'm kind of sorry I didn't wait, but weeks are hectic so I thought I'd get a head start on the disassembly last weekend. Anyhow, my Nanocom Evo arrived and after yanking the fuel pump relay I hooked it up as is. It recons I'm doing 1km / hour, but 0/mph's and 32 rpm even though she's not even running. I've seen that somewhere before so will do a quick search, but of more interest - LTFT's at -148.75 for both banks. Is that a real reading or indicative a fault and either way any suggestions on where to start digging on those would be helpful. Guess she'll need to be running to diagnose that better.

Another odd one is that it's set in Police mode rather than normal. Will correct that after she's running again.

PS. Edit to add South African spec has no o2 sensors, it runs open loop if that makes any difference to the advice or input !
 

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Since its not running that may have been the last rpm value on shut down, my OBDII data showed something similar 97rpm iirc but this was logging at the end of a run.

If your in open loop it ignores the o2's (there aren't any anyway), seems an odd value for LTFT so perhaps this is just a random value or it could be to do with the initial adaptive value for models without o2's, no idea, your documentation should give info on this.

I guess then you won't have STFT either, or do you in some form? (well, you won't know till it's running again)

whats the exhaust is it a 4-2-1 headers, difficult to make out in the picture. I would guess the ones changing colour are slightly hotter and the surface is oxidising faster, temp. measurement would perhaps tell.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since its not running that may have been the last rpm value on shut down, my OBDII data showed something similar 97rpm iirc but this was logging at the end of a run.

If your in open loop it ignores the o2's (there aren't any anyway), seems an odd value for LTFT so perhaps this is just a random value or it could be to do with the initial adaptive value for models without o2's, no idea, your documentation should give info on this.

I guess then you won't have STFT either, or do you in some form? (well, you won't know till it's running again)

whats the exhaust is it a 4-2-1 headers, difficult to make out in the picture. I would guess the ones changing colour are slightly hotter and the surface is oxidising faster, temp. measurement would perhaps tell.
Thanks, and yup, no STFT's.

Headers are 4 - 2 - 1 with 1 and 3 and 5 and 7 connected (yup, not firing order I know , but some research indicates that doesn't harm torque).

Guess I need to get her running again.

Might just do the water pump while I'm down there and let be it at that.
 

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Mine was set to UK police, as well as my friends, set it back to normal. Didn't feel any different after that. I also have no O2s so its also always in open loop. I think that little filter thingy on top of the rocker cover has blown apart and not filtering the air being sucked in to the TB anymore.
 

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True if may not effect much and i don't know how long your primary's are but 5 - 7, which are connected, are as per the firing order, these are highly likely to be giving each other a hard time.
 
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