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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For those that have helped with my various threads to get my truck back on the road; I have the added coolant everywhere that I can think of.

I filled the back flow; filled the crank case/block. But I have yet to fill the radiator. So here is the question: " If I crank my rig with the cap off and check and fill, will that load the radiator? Currently my truck is sitting on a downward sloping angle with a plus/minus 15 tilt to the left hand side of the truck and there is really not much I can do about it until I get it running.

Between the crank and back flow I managed to get around 1.5-ish gallons of coolant into the truck. I am only hesitant, that I have never replaced the therm and water pump on a fully alunium block engine and I really do not want to risk an over heat.

Thanks in advance Gents!

V/R,

Drake
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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488 Posts
Why not just pull the top hose from the block, fill radiator through top hose and reconnect?
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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669 Posts
fill her from the top hose and leave cap off expansion tank, heater on full to ensure circulation and 'burp' her ie run til no more air bubbles come out, keep an eye on the temp gauge and expansion tank, when you want to swap thermostat and water pump - they are really very easy to do having done it myself this summer I'd personally swap the factory spring hose clips for worm screw aka Jubilee clips as the spring type tend to swivel round when compressing and if the pliers slip off they inevitably end up in a position which makes it hard to access,,, water pump - hardest bit was taking the viscous fan off -- heads were off so nothing to 'hold' it whilst trying to undo the end nut - for me this ended up with me taking to a local engineering shop who held the shaft in a huge lathe chuck and an even bigger spanner and leather mallet to release the nut
 
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