[gunemalli]

Hi,

as the topic says, i want to get my tuned up. According to MSV2, my timing modulation is off by +10% approx sitting @ ~65% & the SWG values barely drops below 1500mV. As i've read on BBS's forum, it's said that you need to adjust someting to get the values down to acceptable range. But i'm quite unable to figure out what part i need to adjust.

Can someone enlighten me on this.

Thanks.

PS. this is not about chipping.

 

[Chas]

You adjust the mechanical pump timing.
Look in the workshop manual to see how the pump is attached to the engine. There are 2 or 3 nuts at the front, and one nut through a pressed steel steady bracket at the rear. You may have to move other stuff out of the way to reach this last nut.
Some of the ones at the front are difficult to see, never mind get access to, this is why I advise you to look at the workshop manual.
Before you slacken the last one, mark the position of the pump flange against the front plate. I suggest the best way of doing this is to put a 4 to 6 mm bit in an electric drill and hold the drill tip into the angle between the pump flange and the front plate. Use the drill to 'countersink' a hole, so it's partially in the flange and partially in the front plate. This is much more exact than scribing lines on each surface. Now, by sight, and by feel with the tip of a scriber, you can tell how far you have moved the pump.
Don't try adjusting the pump with the engine running. Move it by about 1 mm, then start the engine and measure the results. You will soon find out if you have moved it the wrong way. Don't bother adjusting by a Dial Indicator as shown in the Workshop Manual, that's only for new components.

HTH

 

[RRToadHall]

So it is somewhat like adjusting timing on your dizzy ignition for an older V8. :thumb:

 

[Chas]

Yes, but not as easy.

Not only are the pump fixings 'probably' more difficult to access than 'any' distributor, but you can't use any old generic tool (like a timing light) to monitor what is happening. You need a specialist tool costing several hundred of whatever currency you happen to use.
One of the Blackbox items, or the common alternatives, or the Bosch alternative.

HTH

 

[Chas]

I forgot to include that while the preliminary work of cracking off the nuts can be done with the engine cold, the set-up figures given in the Blackbox Help files relate to an engine at normal tickover speeds, so the engine has to be warmed up before making any adjustments. Although these readings can be monitored and even captured in CSV format while driving the car around, the designated numbers will not be maintained as the engine speeds up (In my Experience).

HTH

 

[gunemalli]

Mmm...

Thanks all for your replies. It seems this process is way over my capabilities. I'll get down a LR mechanic i know ask him to do the job @ home. It's much more sensible than me trying to figure out which is which & what to do and finally messing the whole system out. With the mechanic at most i'll be only loosing around 50$ at most, as opposed to me messing everything up & costing even more.

Thanks again fellas.

 

[john-sussex]

err get a 4.6 petrol!

 

[gunemalli]

err get a 4.6 petrol!

Not in the lifetime my man. I have to have deep pockets if i'm going to get petrol RR. Way deep pockets.

Here in LKA, a liter of diesel costs me around LKR73.20 ~US$0.63/l whereas for petrols i have to pay LKR132.2/l or ~US$1.13/l.

So if i'm to have gas drinker like a 4.6 which does half the mpg of a diesel, i have to be a millionaire here.

Also here, people opt for diesels over petrol.