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Every 10-14 days I pop the hood, check the oil & coolant and give everything a general look over. Today I noticed a nice crispy wire under the fuse box. This wire was not just slightly melted, it's insulation was gane and it was melted to the wires next to it!

The wire in question is the black (ground) wire from the yellow fuse box connector (C172). This wire wanders off somewhere and grounds at point E167 next to the coolant tank. According to the schematics this wire is referenced as meeting up splice 114 (S114) and seems to ground every flipping thing under the sun.

I am not all that bright when it comes to some of these dang schematics. Does anyone have a hint as to where splice S114 is located so I can figure out whick end of things to start ripping out?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I suggest you quickly and without delay sort out the earth cable from battery to chassis and to engine block, ignore it and you can say good bye to the Rangie when it catches fire.....and a few have
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Viper, battery ground, cable junction at tower and ground at alternator bracket are all spotless and snug. New cables installed appx 9months ago with engine rebuild.
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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All I can tell you is that the ETM says (Introduction, page 13) splice 114 is in the underbonnet harness.
 

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Hi

In the ETM at page 325 (1995 edition) it directs to page Y5-6 (page 330) where you see your burned wire entering the splice S114 from page Y5-5 D. It is not mentioned where exactly the splice is located but it end up at connection point E167, and wires from all the mentioned circuits are joined in at S114. Like front wiper motor, Alarm sounder, Right repeater lamp etc

The E167 location can be found in the connection diagrams at page 375, RH rear of engine compartment.

Your best bet to find the splice is to follow the wires back from the earth point, or any of the other circuits from the diagram.

Personally I would disconnect the battery and pull a new wire from the fuse box straight to the earth point and cut the burned wire and insulate the cut off end with shrink wrap.

Good luck

Jos
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Here is what I found on Alldata, whether it is of any use is debatable though.... 8-0=

[attachment=0:4kaki75w]S114.gif[/attachment:4kaki75w]

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Very odd indeed. Thankfully it was bright and sunny this afternoon as the power went out right as I hit submit on my post above. I have no clue as to what may have happened. I definately plane on pulling a new ground wire but am quite concerned where this may have gone awry. I am guessing it will be a very long weekend if unwrapping wire harness to trace the short. Odd thing is that everything I can think of is working flawlessly.

Thanksf or all the speedy posts and suggestions folks! :thumb:
 

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Hey Three Phase, you get a huge gold star! :thumb: I have a low voltage beeper for tracing speaker, cable and satellite type feeds. I'll hae to dig that out of the dusty corner and give it a shot.

THanksf or the idea!!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Carl I'm sure you have thought of this, but just in case you didn't, is it possible that the short occurred where it was melted to the other wire? What wire is it? Is it a hot wire, which could have caused the problem?
There are several grounds, there is a battery ground at the shock tower, there is a grounding point at the expansion tank, there is a grounding point where the a/c tubes go in to the expansion valve as well.
I have a car all a part I'll go out in the a.m. before work and look for you..
I'll post findings at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The wires it was melted to all have their insulation in tact... at least as far back as I unwrapped. I am 95% sure that it was the ground/black wire that is at fault. I jsut don;t under stand how at this point.

:think: One thought that has come up is that the hood grounds (one on each side) had not been installed when the hood was replaced. I rectified this today. I am guessing this is at the root of all evil and I am a complete moron for not catching it earlier. :crybaby2:
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I here ya, but everything I know about electricity tells me that some where that ground wire became hot!
Grounds don't cause grounds to melt. The black ground wire became shorted with 12 volts some where.
I would start by getting a 12v tester, start the Rangi, turn everything on then put your 12v tester to ground some where see if that melted wire has 12 volts. If it does then turn off all accessories one at a time while checking power at the black wire each time, until you turn the power at the black wire off (process of elimination). The second thing I would do is removing the fuse box, the yellow connector and then look for trace failure with in the fuse box.
Was the wire melted at the fuse box or away from the fuse box?

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... sebox.html

Good luck my friend

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fuse box is new. My thought... as feeble as it may be... is that a ground was missing/failed and that little wire took the brunt of a large draw. However I have not got too far into it, have not got really detailed with the schematics and haven't had any time to do so. I have next week to play with it and two other rigs to drive while I unwrap wires. :evil:
 

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I did an edit please go back and read my previous post sorry.
 

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I've been reading this and watching the thread for a while - simple fact is you have a hot lead grounding someplace in your vehicle. Electricity is a funny little thing - it will find the easiest ground it can, and that could be at one of the furthest points in a vehicle.

I had a 71 GTO last summer that I was working on - had a bad ground on the headlight switch, wouldn't let the headlights come on - so what did I do? I put a ground right on the back of the switch to the dash frame. Within moments smoke is pouring out of the center console and I can see orange light coming from under the car. Look underneath and the insulation is burning off the shifter cable. The cause ended up being the hot lead from the battery to the starter which was in contact with the steering shaft - it had worn a rub through the insulation and made contact - it had nothing to do with my headlights!

Start poking around under the hood first - follow every hot lead that is not tight in a harness, then under the dash, lighting etc. Work close then further out. Any body work done recently that could be pinching a wire? Have you pulled the radio or HVAC controls recently? Any chance one of those harnesses could have caught the dash supports? The wire melted because it was the easiest ground - but that doesn't tell you where the short was.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea Boss I know you are right on the button. The fact that the wire is melted at the fuse box and not at the grounding point tells me somewhere in the middle is my mess. The eternal optimist in me keeps hoping for something obvious to appear... other than the fire brigade. It's just a matter of bucking up and tearing into things to find it. :crybaby2:
 

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If you are well insured - you could always let it burn. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nah, I like beat up old truck. Sure I could pull the badging off but I wouldn't be able to replace a few of my stickers.
 
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