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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to search under "pass side cool air", "different temps on both sides" etc, but got nothing..
Just noticed this.
I had hot air blowing from both sides since it was cold here, but it has warmed up sagnificantly, so I lowered the heat on both sides to about halfway.
Today, I realized the driver side was blowing warm air an the passenger side, cool.

I raised both sides all the way, the left side got hot, the passenger remained the same. Tried hitting AUTO, same thing.
Blower speeds don't change anything...
Ideas?
 

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Its your blind motors. Try turning the key off and on real quick. may loosen the motor, if that doesnt work your going to have to replace it. There is a step by step post somewhere on here that explains how to do it. Look up "blend motor"
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You've been here too long not to know this one man. :snooty:

PS...it's not a blind motor...it's a blend motor.
 

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sorry, its been a long long bad day. Blend motor.... :(
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have a complete set how much ya got? I have another set in parts car I can pull them out I think :think: I know one of those blind motors is bad :lol: easy Mag...so I will be more then happy to break that set up if you just need one..

Scotty
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I forgot that luvs2getmuddy has been on the classic side until a few months ago.

You get a dummy pass. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the pass kmagnuss... :oops:

I was suspecting it was something like that and tried to search, but figured I'd ask.
Well I am going to leave it like this for the time being (will that cause any problems?) since I hardly will be needing the heat in the summer and get it done a little bit later...or perhaps it will fix itself?

What was that way that makes the HVAC system run through its own check?

Btw, thanks for the offer scotty, but If im getting blend motors done, new ones, and ONLY new ones are going, wouldn't want to pay/go through the trouble twice.

thanks fellas.
Just ordere GenIII's and now this...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
luvs2getmuddy said:
Thanks for the pass kmagnuss... :oops:

I was suspecting it was something like that and tried to search, but figured I'd ask.
Well I am going to leave it like this for the time being (will that cause any problems?) since I hardly will be needing the heat in the summer and get it done a little bit later...or perhaps it will fix itself?

What was that way that makes the HVAC system run through its own check?

Btw, thanks for the offer scotty, but If im getting blend motors done, new ones, and ONLY new ones are going, wouldn't want to pay/go through the trouble twice.

thanks fellas.
Just ordere GenIII's and now this...
I must be terrible at the search feature, can't find this ^ and I know I've seen it here.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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What are you looking for exactly? Is it why the system does a check every time at start up? If so, I have no idea why...but it moves the flaps the entire range back and forth once... I assume just to get it's bearing and remember the limits...maybe also to keep it from freezing up in one spot (laughable)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, what I was talking about is, I read sometime back that there is something that you can do, to start an HVAC motor system test, Im not sure what you press r w/e, but it gets the whole test to self test.
 

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Similiar problem. HOT on passanger side no matter what and drivers side is whatever the temp is set to.

I had it happen before with the book symbol so I changed my dirty pollen filters and it went back to normal.

I don't have replacements yet, so I have vacuumed them clean and they were a little damp and it didn't do the trick. I will try to pull them out and run to see if that does it. If it fixes it, I will put dirties back in until the new ones are here. Book symbol is not on this time.

Blend Motors going bad or are bad? Any other quick fix checks?
 

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As described it does sound like a blend motor issue. But if you actually have strong/normal airflow from one vent and weak from another, it could that a fan on one side is not turning on. You can view the fan and recirc flap easily by popping the hood and pulling the fresh air filters. With the system on, not in recirc mode, you should be able to see the open flap and fan turning on both sides. Hit recirc mode and the flaps should shut. This may have nothing to do with your problem but it a quick and easy check.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

NorCal RR said:
As described it does sound like a blend motor issue. But if you actually have strong/normal airflow from one vent and weak from another, it could that a fan on one side is not turning on.
The two fans are both discharging in a common manifold and if one fan fails the bulk of the air from the other fan takes the easy way out (path of least resistance) which is through the not running fan inlet side. If this is your problem you can easily detect it by switching to recirculation mode. After this you have one of the food wells blowing air which is the side where the fan has failed. You will never see strong airflow at one side and weak airflow at the other side unless you have some blockages in your distribution pipes.

If you have problems with the difference in temperature it is most likely possible to move the broken blend motor to accomodate the position you want with the help of 12 VDC feed direct into the blend motor connector.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10107

Regards

Jos
 

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Jos,
When one of my fans didn't work, I had good air flow through the defrost vent on one side. What you say is true for the foot wells. You can pretty well diagnose the fan by feel but nothing beats being able to see if it is turning.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I can't see why using a tested used set of blend motors would be an issue, especially not with the price of new ones 8-0=
Ours has 196k miles and is a 1998, still has original blend motors in it. So it is not a part that fails every two, or even 10 years apparently. :lol:
For a more common item, I can see the logic and agree with it, but not for something that "may" fail once in every 12years :think:
And are you paying to have it done, or doing it yourself? they are easy enough to do IMHO.
Just my .02 as normal....

Martin
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
I can't see why using a tested used set of blend motors would be an issue, especially not with the price of new ones 8-0=
Ours has 196k miles and is a 1998, still has original blend motors in it. So it is not a part that fails every two, or even 10 years apparently. :lol:
For a more common item, I can see the logic and agree with it, but not for something that "may" fail once in every 12years :think:
And are you paying to have it done, or doing it yourself? they are easy enough to do IMHO.
Just my .02 as normal....

Martin
g'DAY,luvstogetMuddy,
I agree with Martin ,many other things cause failer of the blend motors ,see sticky on the self tapper to give the flap clearance to opperate correctly and not stick and strip the gears.Others have lubicated there flaps ,things any Machanic may not know or care and you will be back in 12 months with the same problem.
The Test you are refering to is done by Rovacom ,Faultmate dianostics ,can force test operation of blendmotors and also can syn them correctly once the open book has been cleared.Other faults maybe present like the inlet heater temp sensor .internal climiate sensor under clock ,relays for distribution fans RL 6 and 7 ,dirty pollen filters,all need to be addressed and serviced.
If you go into the range rovers .net repair details.you will be able to do yourself. Nothing wrong with secondhand blendmotors, as long as they are tested .

http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies ... nditioning
:thumb:
Regards Graeme
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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i had same problem like that once /found away to fix it by accident ,its called undoing starting battery ,wait a bit ,then reconect starting battery and found after the computor reset its self now had cold air on both vents again .not hot on left cold on right ,vents now same ,try that worked for me .
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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The HVAC goes through a test cycle on every startup, so if the battery trick worked, it was a fluke.
I have actually had faults after having the battery disconnected, only to disappear at next startup :think:
As I said, new (or used) set of tested blend motors is the ultimate fix (assuming all tests have been carried out......)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Seems that after fiddling with the relays, the problem is gone....for now.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Must have caught it on a good day huh? :thumb:
Were the relays burned or did they look ok?
Some sand paper to the terminals may help for a while, making a good contact etc. Maybe keep your eyes open for a good fusebox?
 
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