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Well after an extended time out of town I got back on Wednesday and messed with the RR this a.m. I ended up buying a gauge set, with hoses. Did some You Tube homework, read about AC charging and dug in. I guess I should mention yesterday I heard the "balloon" sound that some have mentioned. That, and the heat, were a great motivator.

It was a very simple task, and probably took less time than we all have spent writing these messages. I ended using all of a 12 oz can to achieve the proper pressures and vent temperatures.

I haven't driven it yet, but the thermometer showed quite an improvement.

I'm going to take some high side, low side static pressure readings tomorrow and use those for a baseline. I want to determine if I have any significant leak. If so, I'll need to address that issue.

Thanks to all who have helped with this.
 

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After adding a 12oz can of R134a (freon) on my 2006 RR a couple of weeks ago the car's AC has been very cold. Both the passenger and driver vents are properly functioning. The psi reading after adding the can was 35. I am still shocked that this corrected the problem! Thanks for all the great input.
Ed
 

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I am still shocked that this corrected the problem! Thanks for all the great input.
Ed
Mine required 12oz also. 101 degrees yesterday, drove around 100 miles....stayed cool.

A riddle wrapped in an enigma.
 

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Glad this all worked out for everyone.

It's been a couple weeks now, and I haven't noticed any change in the A/C performance since adding freon, so if there IS a leak which caused the initial condition it is VERY slow.

Most modern synthentic refrigerants also have a leak sealer component built into them, so that may have helped too.

Take care,

George
 

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Hi everyone!! I'm brand new to the forum...

I have a 2004 Range Rover HSE. Similar problem as the others, except I have cold air on the driver's side & passenger side (front seat)...and hot air coming out the air vent in the back seat and a bit of hot air coming out of the floor vent on the driver side. Do you all think adding freon will work for my issue?? TIA!
 

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Hi everyone!! I'm brand new to the forum...

I have a 2004 Range Rover HSE. Similar problem as the others, except I have cold air on the driver's side & passenger side (front seat)...and hot air coming out the air vent in the back seat and a bit of hot air coming out of the floor vent on the driver side. Do you all think adding freon will work for my issue?? TIA!
Yes and I will tell you why... The rear vents use the passenger side, but they have the longest path of travel, I bet your passenger side isn't as cold as the driver side (even if its not HOT). The first thing to do is make sure it's properly charged.

Take care,

George
 

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Dear Lord, It's too bad I hadn't seen this thread months ago (or even had my Rover then). Coming from the Cadillac forum, adding freon is the VERY FIRST thing I would have even bothered with. One of the number ONE climate control related complaints over on the Northstar cars (with similar tri-zone setups) is cold air on one side, hot on the other... Don't ask me why, but this is always a sign of low refrigerant and RARELY of a blend door problem or anything else.

Oh well, glad this is semi resolved for you all.
 

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JerseyRRDiva,

I'd start with freon. I did a lot of research on this before I tried a fix. While it isn't intuitive, it is likely your problem and probably the cheapest of any other possible issue. A simple pressure test will confirm the diagnosis.
 

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Yes and I will tell you why... The rear vents use the passenger side, but they have the longest path of travel, I bet your passenger side isn't as cold as the driver side (even if its not HOT). The first thing to do is make sure it's properly charged.

Take care,

George
You're absolutely right. The passenger side isn't as cool as the driver's side...it all makes sense after reading these posts. Will check to see if it's charged, and add refrigerant if needed. I'll check back in with an update. Thanks a million! :)


JerseyRRDiva,

I'd start with freon. I did a lot of research on this before I tried a fix. While it isn't intuitive, it is likely your problem and probably the cheapest of any other possible issue. A simple pressure test will confirm the diagnosis.
Thanks Larry_H...I figured I'd start with the cheapest possible solution before taking it to the dealership *wince* lol
I picked up a can of 134a...will check the pressure first before doing anything else. Tons of thanks!! :)
 

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I know its been a while since anyone has posted on this but i have a 2003 that i have the opposite problem with my drivers side blows hot and the pass side blows ice cold.I have checked the freon level and its right at 35 (full charge).

It all started after testing the heat(to make sure it worked.lol) then switching back to cold and the drivers side never switching back.
I am going to be taking a look at the valves soon since it seems like even tho it didn't work in the previous posts it seems like it could really still be a possibly in my case?
Thanks
 

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Just an update: Like posted in the previous ad by (G8HAV) the heater core selector valve on my range rover was clogged up.(stuck open)
I was very easy to remove its located on the drivers side wheel tower has 3 hoses total attached to it 2 go to the heater core(firewall) and the third goes to some other valve mounted directly under the heather selector valve.( i have pictures if anyone needs them) Once you remove the valve you can take it apart by removing the torx screws and prying it open in the middle.Mine had a peace of melted rubber stuck in the valve.If you end up taking your valve apart and see nothing clogged up, there is also a way to test the valve to see if its working, just plug the valve electrical connector up without hooking the hoses up have someone get in the truck turn key to acc without starting and turn the temperature dial. when temp selector is set at cold it should be closed when temp is set on hot it needs to open, when you turn the key off it opens half way.Anyway i really hope this made sense and really hope it helps someone.If you have an a/c issue first thing to check for is freon level second is definitely this 3 way selector valve.Thanks
 

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Just an update: Like posted in the previous ad by (G8HAV) the heater core selector valve on my range rover was clogged up.(stuck open)
I was very easy to remove its located on the drivers side wheel tower has 3 hoses total attached to it 2 go to the heater core(firewall) and the third goes to some other valve mounted directly under the heather selector valve.( i have pictures if anyone needs them) Once you remove the valve you can take it apart by removing the torx screws and prying it open in the middle.Mine had a peace of melted rubber stuck in the valve.If you end up taking your valve apart and see nothing clogged up, there is also a way to test the valve to see if its working, just plug the valve electrical connector up without hooking the hoses up have someone get in the truck turn key to acc without starting and turn the temperature dial. when temp selector is set at cold it should be closed when temp is set on hot it needs to open, when you turn the key off it opens half way.Anyway i really hope this made sense and really hope it helps someone.If you have an a/c issue first thing to check for is freon level second is definitely this 3 way selector valve.Thanks
Good job 1stgenima. This sums up dozens of messages. For those of you reading istgenima's message read the last line first... ;-)
 

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UPDATE:

After posting about my problem (cool on the driver's side, warm on the passenger side) we had a bit of a cool spell and I never followed up on the problem. I drive several other cars, so the A/C issue took a back seat.


Last week I pulled my FFRRSC out of the garage and drove it to work for the first time in a month and forgot about the AC issue until about 15 minutes into my drive when the car started to get hot and wouldn't cool.

Yesterday, I picked up a can of R134a (20oz with gauge) and finally decided to refill the system.

When I first tested the system, it was under 20psi. I did the 30 second bursts, as other members have recommended here, until I emptied the full 20oz can. It took a while while I filled, then measured, then filled, then measured, and on and on. The can emptied after about 25 minutes of this. My final reading was only 28psi BUT the problem was solved. The system is now blowing ICE COLD air on BOTH sides AND the rear. Hallelujah!!!

I'm just surprised that it took the whole 20oz can and only went up about 10psi. I'll have to monitor it over the next few months and make sure that I don't have a leak.

I realized one important thing... I think that these rigs deplete freon so quickly because most people keep the system on "auto" which keeps the compressor engaged at ALL times even if the heat is on or not. So the A/C compressor is running even through the winter months if "auto" is selected.
 

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UPDATE:

After posting about my problem (cool on the driver's side, warm on the passenger side) we had a bit of a cool spell and I never followed up on the problem. I drive several other cars, so the A/C issue took a back seat.


Last week I pulled my FFRRSC out of the garage and drove it to work for the first time in a month and forgot about the AC issue until about 15 minutes into my drive when the car started to get hot and wouldn't cool.

Yesterday, I picked up a can of R134a (20oz with gauge) and finally decided to refill the system.

When I first tested the system, it was under 20psi. I did the 30 second bursts, as other members have recommended here, until I emptied the full 20oz can. It took a while while I filled, then measured, then filled, then measured, and on and on. The can emptied after about 25 minutes of this. My final reading was only 28psi BUT the problem was solved. The system is now blowing ICE COLD air on BOTH sides AND the rear. Hallelujah!!!

I'm just surprised that it took the whole 20oz can and only went up about 10psi. I'll have to monitor it over the next few months and make sure that I don't have a leak.

I realized one important thing... I think that these rigs deplete freon so quickly because most people keep the system on "auto" which keeps the compressor engaged at ALL times even if the heat is on or not. So the A/C compressor is running even through the winter months if "auto" is selected.
Actually, the opposite would be true. It is *NOT* running A/C systems in cool climates that causes seals to become brittle and leaks to occur. In general, I like buying cars from Washington state except for one glaring problem. The 7 Series I had before this Range Rover had the most luke-warm air despite the compressor functioning fine. The PO had already had a shop re-fill the refrigerant the previous Summer when he moved to the Midwest from Seattle which should have tipped me off something was up.

Of course, up there the weather is so temperate and moist so many months out of the year, people don't excercise their A/Cs and leaks, mold, and all kinds of nastiness results from the little use the systems do get. I can't really account for why we are seeing this trend of leaky Range Rovers but it seems like some of the posters (even a couple from Denver in particular) are in these climates where the A/C isn't necessary much of the year. Or at least, it doesn't SEEM necessary. I believe the drying effects of the A/C system are still useful even when it's cold outside but you should at the very least run the A/C once or twice a month in the coldest parts of the year to keep everything working properly. I almost thought I was going to have the same problem AGAIN with this Rover that came from SF Bay. When I got there the owner was in his new 2012 RR S/C and wasn't using the **** A/C at all even though it must have been 70 or 80 outside, and they demonstrated the A/C working to me in this one as some kind of special thing. Fortunately, it seems ok.
 

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Actually, the opposite would be true. It is *NOT* running A/C systems in cool climates that causes seals to become brittle and leaks to occur. In general, I like buying cars from Washington state except for one glaring problem. The 7 Series I had before this Range Rover had the most luke-warm air despite the compressor functioning fine. The PO had already had a shop re-fill the refrigerant the previous Summer when he moved to the Midwest from Seattle which should have tipped me off something was up.

Of course, up there the weather is so temperate and moist so many months out of the year, people don't excercise their A/Cs and leaks, mold, and all kinds of nastiness results from the little use the systems do get. I can't really account for why we are seeing this trend of leaky Range Rovers but it seems like some of the posters (even a couple from Denver in particular) are in these climates where the A/C isn't necessary much of the year. Or at least, it doesn't SEEM necessary. I believe the drying effects of the A/C system are still useful even when it's cold outside but you should at the very least run the A/C once or twice a month in the coldest parts of the year to keep everything working properly. I almost thought I was going to have the same problem AGAIN with this Rover that came from SF Bay. When I got there the owner was in his new 2012 RR S/C and wasn't using the **** A/C at all even though it must have been 70 or 80 outside, and they demonstrated the A/C working to me in this one as some kind of special thing. Fortunately, it seems ok.
Good point. So it's probably good to let it run for a day each month to keep everything lubricated.
 

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Good point. So it's probably good to let it run for a day each month to keep everything lubricated.
I think that's probably sufficient. Air conditioning and automatic transmissions are two voo-doos I may never fully understand, but I've done my best over the years to figure out why they do certain things they do, and A/C is one of those backwards things where NON use is worse than constant use.
 

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I had a similar issue on my '06 RR SC. The left air vent was the coldest and the the air on the right side of the dash was the warmest. Refrigerant was low. Got a can of R-134a with a built-in pressure gauge and topped off the system. Of course there are other reasons for this AC symptom but if anyone else reads this feed they may want to start by checking their refrigerant levels.
 

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I developed the same issue today I.e hot air from driver side and cold from passenger side. Replaced the FSR last month (related to another issue where vents were not blowing air which was fixed). I added freon this afternoon but still the problem persists. When I turn the ignition off and leave the car parked for some time, the problem gets fixed but the moment I rotate the driver side temp knob to adjust temp, it starts blowing hot air from the driver side again. It's started to get warm here in New England and I would really like to get this fixed. Between the air struts, FSR, steering control valve all going out last month, I don't want to spend anymore money at the shop and would like to fix it myself. Can you send me pics of how to remove the heater core selector valve and how to clean it up and replace. Would appreciate instructions of how to remove the wheel cover as well.
 

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Hellogents, I going to add my two pennies to help you guys out. I have workedon heavy equipment for several years and now manage the company’s fleet ofequipment. Heavy equipment A/C is just as big of a pain ashigh end vehicles like ours. My RR had this same issue after I replacedthe compressor. I replaced mine on a cool day inside my garage, this wasmy first mistake. Second it was late in the evening so the sun was almostdown. So to help you guys out on this.
1. Fill your ac when it’s hot out, and in direct sun exposure.
2. Set your a/c controls to the highest setting, and shut the doors before youbegin to add.
3. Best to have proper A/C dual gauges
Thiswill ensure that your vehicle will except the most amount of Freonneeded. The way I was taught and use now is a simple method for insuringproper fill levels.
1. Add until the high side (Red Gauge) pressured reaches around two and a halftimes the ambient temperatures outside. So if its 95 degrees F, thatwould be 240 psi on your High side on your gauge.
2. The low side should only be read with the valve in the off position, not adding Freon. And the lowside (blue gauge) should be around 25-30 psi when the compressor is engaged.
3. Once you have established this base line start to add little by littleuntil the vehicle begins to cool the cab properly.
4. Also the compressor will work better if it the engine is above 1000 rpmonce your base is set. So give it alittle gas and it will take a little more freon into the system.
This is my way of doing it and has worked for me for yearsin the high humidity and heat here in the south. This is just one of many ways one could do it,so hope it helps out. Again just my twopennies!!

Good luck
 

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I have a 2008 Range Rover Supercharged that went out of warranty back in August. For the last month I've had very cold air coming out of the drivers side and room temperature air coming from the passenger side. I put off taking it to the shop because i have been quite discouraged with the local RR dealer. They alway take 3-4 days to fix my problem and being out of warranty i had a feeling this was going to cost me. I'm going on a long trip next week with my family and dog and started feeling I needed to have this working correctly for the trip. Oh, and by the way, there was a weird noise too when I put on the a/c. I don't know if it was a balloon noise like others have described, to me it was more like a low whine. So I came on this site to get some ideas and guess what, problem solved.

I drove to the local automotive store and bought a 20 ounce can of the R-134 Freon that came with the hose and guage. I easily found the correct place to connect the hose, i turned the car on, ran the a/c on full high, and that can sucked dry in less than 5 minutes. Problem solved! My a/c is throwing very cold air out of ALL vents. It was such an easy task I can not believe it. Driving home my daughter asked me to turn the air down she was to cold, and it was 90 degrees outside. Amazing, cheap fix. Thanks to all for the advice.
Mike
 
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