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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
While needing to open up my hood after a little driving to 'adjust' my relays to get my a/c working (thank you cracked fuse box), I've noticed that the engine bay is exceptionally hot...I think mostly due to the fact that there is nowhere for the air to get out, except for down. So I did exactly what I did on my Volvo to help out the situation... I pulled off the weather stripping from the firewall to give it a few mm of airspace to let the hot air out. Surprisingly, it actually made a bit of a difference here in the Florida heat. I wish I would have done it 5 years ago... I might not have the cracked fuse box right now.

So...for anyone looking to cool down the engine bay... now you know how to do it without trying to install RRS grills.
 

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years ago, in fact many years ago when i was a boy racer, i used to jack the back of the bonnet up with some spacers between the hinge and the bonnet

..............tasi
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #4
I considered the spacers...but I think it might look janky. This isn't a mustang...even though it's worth less.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for the tip Mag...Should have a fuse box this weekend for you..
 

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kmagnuss said:
I considered the spacers...but I think it might look janky. This isn't a mustang...even though it's worth less.
it did ..... but i was younger, had no taste in women, or cars, [both hot but of the cheaper variety] and didn't give a toss.

............tasi
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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tasi devil said:
it did ..... but i was younger, had no taste in women, or cars, [both hot but of the cheaper variety] and didn't give a toss.
:lol: :clap:
 

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both hot but of the cheaper variety
AMEN! Cheers to the good ol' days of hot cheap girls and cars! And when its my turn Karma is giving me a daughter, yep, im screwed.
 

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I've done it. Doesn't look tidy but it may be efficient. For a clean look, you may find a rubber channel
That and the AC fans tweak and i'm good to go to the desert.
 

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I've read that mod on the photos of an Australian member. Basically he bypassed the switch for the fans so those work always. He says it's pretty effective there. When they're stock the AC fans come into action at a certain pressure ie when it's very hot and maybe too hot. I'd like to do this mod with a bridge in the fusebox and monitore the temp with an obd2 reader because i'm not really sure about the gain with those fans.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Just removed my rubber strip too Mag, so will see how it goes.
I have always been amazed at the under hood temps on the p38. Too **** hot IMHO.
One of the few models that would greatly benefit from a real hood vent I think.
Has anyone tried wrapping the manifolds and removing the "heat shields"?
I have done it on wheeling rigs after SBC swaps where room is tight, and it worked pretty good.
Anyone tried it in a P38??

Martin
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #14
A word of caution when you do this... if you are burning oil, the fans *might* suck in the smell and throw it in the cabin. In my case, I have the typical oil leaks, but nothing burning... and I haven't noticed any new smells in the cabin.

Also, this isn't something that's going to drop the temps 100 degrees or anything, but I would say they dropped a good 20 or so... from my rough, no instrument except my butt talking gauge.
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
Just removed my rubber strip too Mag, so will see how it goes.
I have always been amazed at the under hood temps on the p38. Too **** hot IMHO.
One of the few models that would greatly benefit from a real hood vent I think.
Has anyone tried wrapping the manifolds and removing the "heat shields"?
I have done it on wheeling rigs after SBC swaps where room is tight, and it worked pretty good.
Anyone tried it in a P38??

Martin
Yes, i do have a friend who dit that when he rebuilt his engine. Works good. It's on my list too because my heat shields are rattling like crazy.
 

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I wrapped the header and downpipe on my Jeep 4.0 with some wrap from a Jegs catalog and stainless zip type clamps. Really didn't cost more than maybe $50 in materials. Mostly painless but it's much much easier to do obviously with the headers off the car. It did do a nice job cooling the engine compartment and my toes don't cook on the floorboards quite as much (no carpet). Combine that with the additional hot air evacuation of removing the seal and that's a pretty good combo IMHO. Might give it a go on the P38 :think: Maybe get real fancy and wrap and then replace the factory shields.....
 

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NachoMan77 said:
The downside of wrapping is the reduced life span of the manifolds.

http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php? ... haust+wrap

N.

Interesting reading Nacho, thanks for the link. Although I only understood about 30% of the conversation, the intent was clearly to warn against wrapping. Something to keep in mind. My Jeep header is wrapped starting at the bottom of each individual pipe right above the collector, where I could wrap all of them (in this case 6) with a single wrap, rather than individually from the mating point with the head. My main concern actually was to help protect the transmission from heat since the exhaust snakes right beside the tranny and pan.

I've had this setup for about 2 years, maybe 15,000 miles on a stainless Borla header and stainless exhaust. I can report no degredation of the pipes or any other engine related issues and my tranny seems healthier - the temp sensor that kicks off overdrive hasn't fired up very often, where as before it was a regular issue. Now, as discussed by one of the posters, this may be an application or technique that doesn't cause any or very little harm, and that may not necessarily be something that could be assumed to work for a P38. Hard to say.

Sorry for the slightly off topic tilt there fellas....
 

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I'd only put exhaust wrap on a stainless system. The wrap tends to absorb moiture from the air (when engine off) and then rapidly rusts out (standard) steel exhaust systems.

Also, not sure I'd want to remove the seal at the top of the firewall. As was said a few posts ago, that seal is what stops any gases coming off the engine, getting into the cabin through the plenum at the base of the screen.
 

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paul.adshead said:
I'd only put exhaust wrap on a stainless system. The wrap tends to absorb moiture from the air (when engine off) and then rapidly rusts out (standard) steel exhaust systems.

Also, not sure I'd want to remove the seal at the top of the firewall. As was said a few posts ago, that seal is what stops any gases coming off the engine, getting into the cabin through the plenum at the base of the screen.
2 days with the seal off and i do not have any effect. Test with AC on or off.
 
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