Home made calibration blocks.
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Let me add to the confusion. 8)
Darthdude, many thanks for that link, very enlightening & a welcome addition to my collection of P38 links. I wonder why the person on that side had trouble with the 'official' calibration blocks; he doesn't mention.
But, I would be the last to slag off rrtoadhall. He's a treasure trove of knowledge and he alone could easily replace the search engine on this forum by himself.
I sometimes wonder if he sleeps at all between tinkering with his Range Rover and posting tidbits on this forum.
(Then again, rrtoadhall, I have to say I find the tape measuring method frustrating and difficult. Maybe it's because I have no baseline (dealer messed up my EAS completely) but no matter what you say, that's how it is for me.)
I'd also have a very hard time concluding Ron Beckett is at fault. He's an extremely valued member of the forum. At least he is to me. To put things into perspective, he could easily replace rrtoadhall on this forum by himself. `)
Coming to a point somehow. Why are the 135 mm blocks wrong? (Btw, they're 136 mm.) Do people use them upside down? Why o why is the official tool 136 mm all round, but the LR Systems Engineering Document size 100 up front, 105 mm in the rear? What does it mean to use a 100/105 mm block, is it meant to be between the axle and the rubber bump stop? Does this take into account the compressibilty of (old, or new) bump stops? What's a bump stop stub? Is that the bit on the chassis when the bump stop is removed? I have a feel my grasp of the English language is failing me, and my grasp of the EAS is definitely failing me.
I'm willing to submit a text (poorly written as it may be) with pictures to John for the main site's repair section, but right now I'm still lost at sea...
:think:
Darthdude, many thanks for that link, very enlightening & a welcome addition to my collection of P38 links. I wonder why the person on that side had trouble with the 'official' calibration blocks; he doesn't mention.
But, I would be the last to slag off rrtoadhall. He's a treasure trove of knowledge and he alone could easily replace the search engine on this forum by himself.
I sometimes wonder if he sleeps at all between tinkering with his Range Rover and posting tidbits on this forum.(Then again, rrtoadhall, I have to say I find the tape measuring method frustrating and difficult. Maybe it's because I have no baseline (dealer messed up my EAS completely) but no matter what you say, that's how it is for me.)
I'd also have a very hard time concluding Ron Beckett is at fault. He's an extremely valued member of the forum. At least he is to me. To put things into perspective, he could easily replace rrtoadhall on this forum by himself. `)
Coming to a point somehow. Why are the 135 mm blocks wrong? (Btw, they're 136 mm.) Do people use them upside down? Why o why is the official tool 136 mm all round, but the LR Systems Engineering Document size 100 up front, 105 mm in the rear? What does it mean to use a 100/105 mm block, is it meant to be between the axle and the rubber bump stop? Does this take into account the compressibilty of (old, or new) bump stops? What's a bump stop stub? Is that the bit on the chassis when the bump stop is removed? I have a feel my grasp of the English language is failing me, and my grasp of the EAS is definitely failing me.
I'm willing to submit a text (poorly written as it may be) with pictures to John for the main site's repair section, but right now I'm still lost at sea...
:think:
Once more...step by step
Unless you have a Test Book, FORGET about the "official" calibration blocks.
Unlike the RR "Classic" the later RR "...calibrates the chassis to the axles." (LR EAS systems Information document 1998)
The proper measurement is therefore the displacement between the bump stop stub and the axle pad...(hence the narrow dimensions of the calibration blocks so they can fit through the hole in the rubber bump stop and connect with the stub ...)
So, if you are going to use simple hardwood blocks, simply remove the rubber bump stops before you start.
Make up a separate sets of blocks to represent each height setting:
The Standard Height is : Front 100mm / Rear 105mm (specified in the above Syst Info document)
Access Height: -60mm offset from Standard: Front 40mm / Rear 45mm
Low Profile (Highway) -20mm offset from Standard: Front 80mm / Rear 85mm
High Profile: +40mm from Standard: 140mm Front, 145mm Rear
Settle the vehicle on each set of blocks in turn and read the "point values"for each corner with your Faultmate or RSW's free software
These represent the "TARGET" calibration setting for each sensor at each height.
Write these target settings into the EAS ECU and you should get "near as **** it" 8~ to a perfect set of results
hope this explains it...
Unless you have a Test Book, FORGET about the "official" calibration blocks.
Unlike the RR "Classic" the later RR "...calibrates the chassis to the axles." (LR EAS systems Information document 1998)
The proper measurement is therefore the displacement between the bump stop stub and the axle pad...(hence the narrow dimensions of the calibration blocks so they can fit through the hole in the rubber bump stop and connect with the stub ...)
So, if you are going to use simple hardwood blocks, simply remove the rubber bump stops before you start.
Make up a separate sets of blocks to represent each height setting:
The Standard Height is : Front 100mm / Rear 105mm (specified in the above Syst Info document)
Access Height: -60mm offset from Standard: Front 40mm / Rear 45mm
Low Profile (Highway) -20mm offset from Standard: Front 80mm / Rear 85mm
High Profile: +40mm from Standard: 140mm Front, 145mm Rear
Settle the vehicle on each set of blocks in turn and read the "point values"for each corner with your Faultmate or RSW's free software
These represent the "TARGET" calibration setting for each sensor at each height.
Write these target settings into the EAS ECU and you should get "near as **** it" 8~ to a perfect set of results
hope this explains it...
Thanks Hoges, this explains a lot, if not everything.
I do wonder why people find the official blocks 'incorrect' - but that's out of mere curiosity.
I do wonder why people find the official blocks 'incorrect' - but that's out of mere curiosity.
Hi
I made blocks like that years ago from the very same drawing that Ron posted on this forum.
I made the blocks for highway, normal and high modes. Now all you have to do is to insert the blocks in the bump stops and lower the car onto the blocks. Then note the value of all the sensors at the different heights and insert them in the calibration height fields.
I never made the blocks for the access mode. You will not be driving in that mode so it does not have to be that accurate. Just deduct a same amount of bits from the highway mode settings and insert in the access mode calibration fields. Job done.
The bump stops do not have to be removed the blocks fit inside them. If I remember correctly the rear blocks are a bit longer then the front ones.
Regards
Jos
I made blocks like that years ago from the very same drawing that Ron posted on this forum.
I made the blocks for highway, normal and high modes. Now all you have to do is to insert the blocks in the bump stops and lower the car onto the blocks. Then note the value of all the sensors at the different heights and insert them in the calibration height fields.
I never made the blocks for the access mode. You will not be driving in that mode so it does not have to be that accurate. Just deduct a same amount of bits from the highway mode settings and insert in the access mode calibration fields. Job done.
The bump stops do not have to be removed the blocks fit inside them. If I remember correctly the rear blocks are a bit longer then the front ones.
Regards
Jos
Hi
Wasn`t the big issue here from the post starter, how to calibrate with an extra 2 inch or 1 inch lift.
As of my understanding of the EAS system, height sensors travel should make you able to calibrate for an 1 inch ( up to 30mm ) extra lift in all settings, except or omit the extended setting ( 70mm above std ). this setting is not manually selective anyway. As you know STD setting is 100mm and 105mm High setting is 140mm and 145mm, but you also have the extended high setting wich then is 170mm and 175mm. This setting is not possible to select manually, but when the rig get stranded on its frame this setting is auto selected to try to get traction or wheel contact again.
If you want to lift your rig in all setting you should within the height sensors reading be able to lift all settings by these 30mm, but then you dont have this auto extended setting anymore. Meaning highway up 30mm, STD up 30mm, high( offroad ) up 30mm, extended high omit/ or same as high ( offroad ).
Reason must be to facilitate slightly larger tire, better ground clearance and so on, but with the awarness of that your missing the last safety issue of the rig to lift itself when you get stranded in high setting( but how often do that happens anyway.
Does all this make sense for all of you guys - or am I far out.
Best regards Brage
Wasn`t the big issue here from the post starter, how to calibrate with an extra 2 inch or 1 inch lift.
As of my understanding of the EAS system, height sensors travel should make you able to calibrate for an 1 inch ( up to 30mm ) extra lift in all settings, except or omit the extended setting ( 70mm above std ). this setting is not manually selective anyway. As you know STD setting is 100mm and 105mm High setting is 140mm and 145mm, but you also have the extended high setting wich then is 170mm and 175mm. This setting is not possible to select manually, but when the rig get stranded on its frame this setting is auto selected to try to get traction or wheel contact again.
If you want to lift your rig in all setting you should within the height sensors reading be able to lift all settings by these 30mm, but then you dont have this auto extended setting anymore. Meaning highway up 30mm, STD up 30mm, high( offroad ) up 30mm, extended high omit/ or same as high ( offroad ).
Reason must be to facilitate slightly larger tire, better ground clearance and so on, but with the awarness of that your missing the last safety issue of the rig to lift itself when you get stranded in high setting( but how often do that happens anyway.
Does all this make sense for all of you guys - or am I far out.
Best regards Brage
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
