Let me add to the confusion. 8)
Darthdude, many thanks for that link, very enlightening & a welcome addition to my collection of P38 links. I wonder why the person on that side had trouble with the 'official' calibration blocks; he doesn't mention.
But, I would be the last to slag off rrtoadhall. He's a treasure trove of knowledge and he alone could easily replace the search engine on this forum by himself.
I sometimes wonder if he sleeps at all between tinkering with his Range Rover and posting tidbits on this forum.
(Then again, rrtoadhall, I have to say I find
the tape measuring method frustrating and difficult. Maybe it's because I have no baseline (dealer messed up my EAS completely) but no matter what you say, that's how it is for me.)
I'd also have a very hard time concluding Ron Beckett is at fault. He's an extremely valued member of the forum. At least he is to me. To put things into perspective, he could easily replace rrtoadhall on this forum by himself. `)
Coming to a point somehow. Why
are the 135 mm blocks wrong? (Btw, they're 136 mm.) Do people use them upside down? Why o why is the official tool 136 mm all round, but the LR Systems Engineering Document size 100 up front, 105 mm in the rear? What does it mean to use a 100/105 mm block, is it meant to be between the axle and the rubber bump stop? Does this take into account the compressibilty of (old, or new) bump stops? What's a bump stop stub? Is that the bit on the chassis when the bump stop is removed? I have a feel my grasp of the English language is failing me, and my grasp of the EAS is definitely failing me.
I'm willing to submit a text (poorly written as it may be) with pictures to John for the main site's repair section, but right now I'm still lost at sea...