RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Hi everyone! I own 2007 RR 3.6 tdv8. I started experiencing slipping from gearbox at gears 4, 5 and 6 followed by car goes into limp mode (limited gears only) appeared on the dash board, so I have checked transmission oil level, then changed it combined with filter, then checked the solenoids, then took off gearbox and removed turbine hydraulic clutch and sent for rebuild but problem was still there with very small improvements.... so finally i got mad and I removed gearbox again and have opened it and have found the problem inside there - in A drum (responsible for high gears) the friction clutch plates were badly worn both sets small and big ones also small ones were bended and bluish proving high temperatures were there...So here I am ordered all of them brand new OEM ones and have put all back together and when wanted to start the car back to do the transmission oil level procedure turns up battery was completely dead - even no lights at the dashboard after I flicked the key. So I have replaced the battery and decided to check and clear the errors first - no surprise there were all bunch of them (almost every module with small exemptions) so I did that and the only errors left were in remote driver utility module, light check module and parking aid module. I have repeated clear and the only faults left were in remote driver utility module B1A00-46 control module, B1A99-4c power on reset, B1A00-16 control module and I was unable to clear these for some reason, so I have decided to start the car and move on with the transmission issue. Well I wish to, but when I flick the key to start the engine it just nothing happens...and I have no idea why... is this relevant to these three faults left? Firstly I thought the other battery I brought is not good to but then have tried with jump start from running vehicle and still nothing... Any ideas ? I don’t want to believe my starter is gone now after all other issues....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
The first thing that comes to mind is that the mechatronics connector sleeve may not be fully seated. Check that there is a 3 mm gap between the locking ring of the connector and the transmission body with the connector in the fully locked position. The easiest way to do this is with a 3 mm hex wrench. If the gap is more than 3 mm it can cause communication issues between the control units and may not allow the engine to start. ZF Connector sleeve.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
yeah thanks for your concern, but I have checked that and it’s all fine, cleaned pins and all that, also dashboard gets correct info from gearbox when I move gear stick through gears it reads everything correct also rear camera activates when on “reverse” all looks fine there. I looks like problem with the starter motor....will take out the starter motor and force it to work outside vehicle to see if any good....thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just an update - starter motor is fine too - it perfectly works outside vehicle. I assume the only thing left is something with key memory loss or immobilizer issue after car being stood without battery........any ideas?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,246 Posts
What was it?..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Re: Help RR won’t start after gearbox removal

You wont believe but after all my efforts and everything I gave 12V from another battery straight to the starter motor and have left keys to position 2 (all lights on dashboard ON) and truck started straight away.(i forced it to start :lol: ) I flipped the key OFF disconnect the other battery then turned the key ON again and truck started spot on..........cant believe this but its a fact...................
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Re: Help RR won’t start after gearbox removal

Update! Truck did not want to start due wrong transmission install (I believe). Since I started it with the second battery I did not move it because I did not need it, but couple days a go I decided to take it for a trip and when started the engine there was nasty squeaking noise from transmission bell housing. Also truck did not want to move at all when D or R applied. So I've suspected transmission oil pump failure. I took off transmission again and removed the oil pump, opened it and the pins on the gear wheel (the ones which torque converter locks in) were both broken. So i suspected wrong transmission install due my laziness not to take off torque converter off the engine. So I bought another pump (second hand in good order for 80bucks), have installed it into transmission, took off TQ from the engine, placed it on the transmission shaft nicely, checked the deepness into bellhousing, tried spinning TQ
by hand - all OK, then installed tranny back to the engine - it went nice and easy by little hand push, then fasten 4 screws holding the TQ - I did everything by the books now! I started the engine just two hours ago and the noise was there again and no movement.......Tomorrow I am taking trany off again....I have no idea why the hell TQ breaks the pins of oil pump gear.....Anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Re: Help RR won’t start after gearbox removal

Update! Oil pump is in perfect working order. I still dont know where the squeaking noise comes from...Everything looks normal inside gearbox......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
It was the starter touching the ring for some reason.... I have applied two washers in between bell housing and engine on each bolt holding the starter and noise has disappeared.....
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top