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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Morning everyone,
I would need some Help sorting this EKA Problem on my P38 d please.
It is a 1996 and asking for a Divorce.

Yesterday i was driving to a meeting, arrived switched the car of and left the Keys on the Dashboard.
just so nothing would be active to drain Battery, which is 2 weeks old.

I may pressed twice the Door lock Button while i was leaning out the window chatting.
unlocked it and nothing happen.
CL didnt lock the whole car.
i think. cant remember.
After 2 Hours later i went to the Car unlocked which didnt work over the Buttons. i had to do it Manuel.

The **** Csr dosnt let me synchronise the Key as i did when i changed the Battery.
Neither Accept the EKA.

So hem i tried to Start the Display asking for Press Button or Give EKA
Button press - dont work.
tried EKA multiple times. Nothing.

Now i found that, which i tried,

key code 3234
Now people get confused with the flashing indicators and turns
to activate put key in door turn anticlockwise four times you will see your indicators flash four times once for each turn,now you are ready for your first number of your four digit code.
Yes the Indicators flashing.
as above lets say its 3 turn the key clockwise 3 times the first time the indicator will flash the next two turns it wont flash the indicators dont worry this is normall!
Indicators do NOT Flash
sencond number2 of key code turn key anti-clockwise twice the indicators will flash twice once for each turn this is normall
Indicators do NOT Flash
third number of key code 3 turn clockwise three times the first time indicators will flash the senond and third turn they wont
Indicators do NOT Flash
fourth number of key code 4 turn anti-clockwise four times indicators will flash for each turn.
Indicators do NOT Flash
after fourth number turn key back to center and then turn clockwise to engine and disarm alarm and imobiliser.
Still Alarmed and when open the Door the Alarm comes on.

i gone all Night through everything i found, my Neighbours are ready to burn the Car because the Alarm coming on every 30 minutes when i try again.
It also only let me put the EKA trial in once , not 3 times and the Alarm comes on after it failed.


???????
 

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On early cars, but I couldn't tell you exactly when the change happened, there was no need to do the 4 turns to lock first, you just input the first number with a turn to unlock. On later cars the hazards flash when you do the 4 turns to lock but after that the little green sidelight lamp on the dash will flash to show the turns have been accepted. Have you been able to enter the EKA successfully in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no. i just had the car 3 weeks.
it came with an eka code and key code number and stuff.
i am not sure if this code is actually the right one.
 

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Give it a try without the initial 4 turns. Once you have entered all 4 numbers, a turn to unlock should unlock all the doors.
 

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Sounds like you may have the wrong EKA, is it on a proper printout or card or scribbled on a bit of paper. Without the EKA you're running out of options other than sending the fob and BeCM to Marty (www.p38webshop.co.uk) to be checked and sorted. Boot will unlock as it gets a ground signal from the RH front door, so if that is unlocked, so is the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it is written on the back of this landrover security information where the original card was attached.
i tried calling some landrover dealers but with being saturday no one works.

i am thinking of nanocom and switch the passive alarm and immobiliser complete of?
would nanocom also give me the idea what i need to replace ? or just override the becm on that matter?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It is definitely the wrong EKA code.
The BECM has a very basic memory. It is from a bygone age.
There are restrictions on the numbers that can be used for the EKA.
The numbers used must be, I think, 1 to 5 (or maybe 1 to 6) and you can't have the same number twice. You can't use zero either.
You have 3 twice so it is definitely wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i start thinking the same.
i found some RR P38 can be re activated by using 1515. but not mine.
and i am trying since this morning 4am every half an hour.
i tried to spray electrical contact spray everywhere inside the door after the panel was of but nothing.
the rear door is making a sound like locking after i done the eka and nothing happen - when i lock the driver door again manual.
but passenger side i think is nothing coming from and not managing activating the disarm.
 

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My mistake, I have just read the exact wording again about the EKA number that came with my diagnostics system.

"The number has to be 4 characters long, each character can be a number 1 to 6, and the numbers cannot be all the same."

So the code you have been given could be valid after all. Apologies.
I knew there were restrictions on the numbers.

 

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The numbers used must be, I think, 1 to 5 (or maybe 1 to 6) and you can't have the same number twice. You can't use zero either.
Maybe for the diesel but one of the cars in my care has the EKA of 5335, one is 3211 and the other is 4311, so you can use the same number twice. (edited to say that Dave corrected the info)

Using a Nanocom you can turn off passive immobilisation but not the immobiliser and if you turn off the EKA, it no longer asks for it when needed but will still accept it when needed. There is no way round either of them.

As well as the EKA there is also the radio code which is also a 4 digit code so it may be that which you are trying. That is the one that more owners would have need for than the EKA.
 

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and the 1515 is the default code for a US spec car which have the EKA turned off but will accept 1515 if it is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well. i dont have the radio in the range rover anymore. exchanged it for an mp5 player.
so dont know if the radio code would work on the radio which came with the car. but it wasnt the original radio anyway. only some cheap cd player thing.
 

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You'll need to wait until Monday now but if you take your V5 and some ID into a Land Rover main dealer, they should be able to give you a printout for your car with the EKA. If that turns out to be the same one you are trying to use that isn't working, then it will be a job for Marty I'm afraid.
 

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They will charge for that. It was around £20, probably more now.
Unless you are friendly with someone in the parts dept.
 

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Since when? First thing I've done with any P38 I've owned or had to work on was call in and get the printout and never been charged a penny. I've always said it's the only thing you'll ever get from LR for free. If the dealer knows you they will sometimes give it over the phone.
 

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I got key codes, EKA etc. from JLR dealer for free via email. I contacted JLR in Jakarta, Australia, and UK and all three of them have been very helpful. Just provide them with VIN and proof of ownership.
 

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Actually, ( for post '96 cars), it is 4 turns towards 'lock' before starting your code entry. As you are '96, this step is not necessary, and so the BECM is reading 4 as the first number of your code. This is giving you a mislock, leaving the other doors and tailgate locked. Start with everything shut and the door key-locked. Begin your code entry with 'unlocks', pausing at the end of each movement, (also when syncing the fob). A wrong code should trigger the alarm hooter to beep a mislock ( but mine doesnt work). You get 5 attempts before a 10 minute 'Keycode Lockout' message on the dash...you cant enter a code during this period. Post-'96, it is 3 attempts and a 30 min. lockout.
You mentioned that you have battety drain concerns...a common cause of battery drain is a dud microswitch in the door latch. If correct EKA technique isnt working for you then this might be your problem. (or it could be both). This might also be foiling your fob-sync attempt. Go to Marty's 'p38webshop.co.uk' site to find a diy test for switch condition, and an exchange refurbish service.
Finally, never leave your keys in the car...its a bad habit. Reconnecting the battery causes the doors to lock you out under some conditions, and a mechanical lock failure can do the same.
 

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A side note. With Nanocom in BECM settings, you can change the Mislock indication from "Sounder" to "Interior Light".
This stops the neighbour annoyance !!
 
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