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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have been working on my p38 EAS system. I have replaced all 4 air springs, rebuilding compressor seal, replacing all O-rings and everything else in the valve block.

When I put everything back together I was very disappointed to see that my air suspension did not lift at all, not a single budge, even after waiting 10 or 15min.

I checked that there is pressure from the pump, also there is suction at the inlet. The exhaust port is not leaking when the pump is running. I am also building pressure in the top hose of the dryer.

I noticed that there is no air coming from the reservoir port, (port F in this thread EAS Box - It's a Map !)

Is this normal? I figured that the pump when running would be pushing air into the reservoir. But there is no air whatsoever. Has anyone had this issue before? Perhaps there is some obvious answer. Maybe a valve installed backwards?

I have ordered EAS unlock V4 and a pressure gauge + 6mm fittings, but those are set to arrive in about 1 week.


Thanks for your time.
 

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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also I forgot to mention this is my first post so hello to all the forum members,

I recently bought my with quite a few issues but low KM (92,000) and got a good deal (in my opinion) for $3,000 CAD.

I attached a picture of it the day i bought it, but I haven't driven it much since then
Capture.PNG
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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323 Posts
Hello from BC where I have a 99. If you disconnect the pump hose from the valve block and hold your finger over the end how much pressure do you get ? You shouldn't be able to keep your finger over it. If you have lots of pressure and flow I would guess an error in the valve block. Who did you get a kit from? There might be a Youtube video on rebuilding the block. The system is pretty simple really. Just persevere and you will get it.
 

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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I am in BC too.

I was not able to fully block the output of my pump with my finger. It would leak.

I got the rebuild kit from 4x4 air seals, through Ebay. I had real difficulty getting the pump piston seal installed correctly. I damaged 4 before I got my 5th one installed with not creasing or folding. So I feel pretty confident the pump is working OK. I feel like the pump is building enough pressure that I would see or hear at least some movement.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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338 Posts
Brody, welcome to the board.

There is a missing step in the pump rebuild instructions.

You have to:

Put the cylinder over the piston/con rod first, then fit the seal to the piston/con rod, then fit the top to the piston/con rod, then pull the piston/con rod down backwards through the cylinder. This shapes the seal to the cylinder; there is no other way to shape the seal before you fit it up again through the bottom of the cylinder.

Do not buy the cheap kits. Get your EAS parts from X8R on eBay (or there is another vendor too... others will say who, I don't use them)

If the pump is running then there are two options: It's not putting out the pressure (should be 175 psi) OR there is a leak.

Those are the only options.

SO get your squirty bottle and start spraying and looking for leaks.

No leaks? Probably you mucked up the compressor rebuild. Did you replace the o-ring under the reed? It is critical!

Check, and check again and come back.
 

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Second post in as many weeks where a valve block rebuild using seals from 4x4 Air Seals hasn't worked. The ones from X8R work fine. Re fitting the new seal in the compressor, if you put the piston at top dead centre then slide the sleeve on at 45 degrees or more (so only half of it is in contact with the seal) then twist it straight. Slots straight in.
 
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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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323 Posts
Well gee, it was the ones from X8R that I could not get to work right. I have rebuilt two EAS valve blocks with kits from
4x4airseals and they both work fine. I think we are talking about operator error here. The pump rebuild kit from 4x4airseals includes a cylinder with a taper in it which you use to pre-form the piston seal. You have to read the instructions carefully and be sure you understand them. Took me a while.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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338 Posts
Test the pump pressure. You might need to go to an air fittings supply place and buy a few bits but a healthy pump should be putting out a big gulp of air - 180 - 200 psi if really good. O-ring under the reed - if not perfectly sealed the pump will fail quickly.

If it's not putting out the juice then the system will never pressure up. In the valve block the trouble spots are the tiny thin o-rings under the solenoids. It's easy to crimp them. Assemble them with a little dishwashing liquid or silicone spray as lube.

Don't give up!

When sorted out the EAS is very reliable.
 

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1992 RRC and 2002 RRP38
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2 Posts
Brody, welcome to the board.

There is a missing step in the pump rebuild instructions.

You have to:

Put the cylinder over the piston/con rod first, then fit the seal to the piston/con rod, then fit the top to the piston/con rod, then pull the piston/con rod down backwards through the cylinder. This shapes the seal to the cylinder; there is no other way to shape the seal before you fit it up again through the bottom of the cylinder.

Do not buy the cheap kits. Get your EAS parts from X8R on eBay (or there is another vendor too... others will say who, I don't use them)

If the pump is running then there are two options: It's not putting out the pressure (should be 175 psi) OR there is a leak.

Those are the only options.

SO get your squirty bottle and start spraying and looking for leaks.

No leaks? Probably you mucked up the compressor rebuild. Did you replace the o-ring under the reed? It is critical!

Check, and check again and come back.
I just did a X8R pump rebuild kit and had no issues with the fitting of the piston seal. Just followed their YouTube instruction video. Ordering their EAS Block tease all kit soon.
 

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Hi all, it sounds easy until something is wrong and you have spent hours rebuilding the EAS block. Is there any party who is rebuilding and testing these blocks for resale. I'm in Las Vegas and would like to swap mine out.
Cheers, Steve
 

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Hi Brody, If you haven't reset the EAS fault it won't matter if the block, etc. are perfect, the system will be disabled. It sounds like you picked up the car with the fault so am assuming that's the case.I use an EAS Kicker tool. Carry it in the car and it's saved me a number of times.
 

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Kicker is OK to clear the fault but doesn't tell you what the fault was so you can't deal with it. All that will happen is you need to use the Kicker more and more often as the fault gets worse. Far better to buy or make a cable (see Range Rover P38a - Making The EAS Serial Cable) and download the free EASUnlock software from RSWsolutions.
 

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If you are "building pressure at the dryer" then the pump must be putting out something. As others have said get a gauge from eBay & check the pump. It should quickly rise to >> 170 PSI.

Also buy some adapters for 4mm - 6mm, and check the pressure at the dryer input & output when the pump is running.

This diagram explains the air path for charging the tank. The attached PDF explains the EAS system.

Screenshot 2020-11-19 at 14.08.13.png
 

Attachments

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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323 Posts
This is what I bought on eBay. Cable, software and a good quality USB to Serial port converter. Cheaper than the Kicker.
RANGE ROVER P38 KIT RESET DIAGNOSTIC WIRE EAS AIR SUSPENSION LAND ROVER 95-02 .
Used it to reset my heights and clear faults.
 

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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Hi Brody, If you haven't reset the EAS fault it won't matter if the block, etc. are perfect, the system will be disabled. It sounds like you picked up the car with the fault so am assuming that's the case.I use an EAS Kicker tool. Carry it in the car and it's saved me a number of times.
Hi, I cleared all codes in the EAS system and still no results.
 

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If you cleared the faults and it still isn't working, what faults did you see? Most don't actually mean what they say (most are leaks meaning things don't happen within the timeframe the ECU expects it to) but knowing what they were will help narrow things down. Check any stored faults again and see if any have come back.
 

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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
If you are "building pressure at the dryer" then the pump must be putting out something. As others have said get a gauge from eBay & check the pump. It should quickly rise to >> 170 PSI.

Also buy some adapters for 4mm - 6mm, and check the pressure at the dryer input & output when the pump is running.

This diagram explains the air path for charging the tank. The attached PDF explains the EAS system.

View attachment 290231

This diagram really helped me. I checked out my diaphragm valve and also my non return valves. I must have made a mistake in putting in the NRV because one was in backwards from how it should be.

The EAS is working now, rising quickly, dropping quickly. Thanks everyone for you help!
 

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1996 P38 SE 4.0, 92,000km, GEMS
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Now on to fix the other issues...

-Air conditioning reported not working by prev. owner
-Gear lever wont go down into 1, XYZ switch i think.
-Seat belt really difficult and slow to retract.
-Heated seat not working, maybe this one is too much to fix...
 

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AC, check if it has refrigerant in it. If not it may just need a re-gas or it has a leak, most likely top right corner of the condenser.
Gear lever cable needs adjusting but if the dash accurately displays what gear you are in, XYZ switch is fine.
Take seat belt drum out and clean it.
Heated seats stop working because people will insist on sitting on them and the elements break......
 
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