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HELP ME 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

5K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  big-t 
#1 ·
Hello everybody, in January 09 I bought a 2001, very cherry, 4.6 HSE that looks like it just came out of the showroom, :dance: but I have already had my fair share of BUGS TO DEAL WITH :crybaby2: In the first week my wife was driving it to work and the EAS went crazy, and dropped it on the bump stops after hitting a little bump on the highway, and it sat in the garage for a couple of months (just long enough for the car lot warranty to run out) while I researched the problem (I'm deathly afraid of taking it to the dealership and say "go ahead and fix it" as I am not a millionaire) :snooty: I finally found RSW Solutions.com (Storey Wilson) and bought a EAS Buddy Box for $200 usd and it worked beautifully, haven't had a problem with the EAS since. Thanks Storey Wilson. After we got that fixed my wife and I went for a cruise and realized the air conditioning wasn't working, so back under the hood I went. After getting several price quotes of $1000 - $1500 for a new compressor and recharge of the system I thought I would check the basics first. It turned out to be a FREE-FIX :D The compressor plug was fouled, so all I did was cut it out, and hard wire it together with a little solder and some shrink tubing, now the air works perfect. ( Didn't even have to recharge) And to clear the testbook symbol off the message center I turned the key on and off rapidly about 10 times, and that cleared it. So there was another FREE-FIX. :lol: Again, thanks Storey Wilson, I can't say enough good things about this guy. He returns my e-mails promptly and has even called me a couple of times with helpfull hints and advice. He lives in the USA and I am in Calgary Alberta Canada. I've been tearing cars apart and putting them back together since I was 8, and helped my Dad rebuild his '57 Ford Ranchero and I turn 50 on July 11. Have built several hotrods and basically do bumper to bumper repairs and customizing myself, right down to the paint and upholstery. So the wife and I took it for another victory cruise last week, and on the way home I noticed at 54 - 70 MPH the front diff started going "WHOOOOOOOO" (imagine a long note on a cello). It doesn't pull, it doesn't slow the vehicle down, still drives straight, so I don't think it's coming from one side or the other. It seems to be coming from the whole diff. I've had parts guys try to sell me hubs, and have heard horror stories of people replacing their entire front diff to no avail. I think it's either the output shaft bearing on the front of the transfer case or the input shaft bearing on the front diff. I just read that Land Rover had a recall on the front diff on 2002 and newer Rovers, because of issues with the imput shaft on the front diff being out of alignment. Looks like I missed it by one year. I'd rather replace a $35 bearing than a $650 hub, and of course you can't just replace the front wheel bearings, as the hubs are sealed units. Tell me they didn't engineer them that way on purpose. Anybody out there who has experienced this and found a fix, I'd really appreciate knowing about it. I've always wanted a Range Rover, and this is my first one, once I learn all of the noises that they make when they break I wont have any problems fixing whatever it can throw at me. Keep the Faith :think:
 

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#2 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Have you checked the fluid in the differential and are you sure it is not the transmission? The recall for the 2002-2005 range rover is for the MKIII (L322 or BMW range rover) not for the P38a like yours. Make sure there is enough fluid and check the breather tubes as well.
 
#3 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

I also would check the fluid...I had a similar sounds occur in mine. It started as a whosh whosh sound and before I had time to diagnose it I went on a lovely spur of the moment off-roading adventure. At one point in the trip I got stuck and a combination of the no fluid/stress caused the internals of my front pumpkin to basically explode...please check the fluid; it is not a fun or easy fix!
 
#4 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

I will check the level right away.Thats funny because that is actually the first thing I thought of and dismissed it after talking to a couple of (experts?) here in cowtown. I had a corvette years ago and had to put the additive in the diff to make it work right. Do the rovers take the same stuff or is there any special gear oil for them?. In my Rave CD it says to use Texaco multigear, does Texaco even exist anymore? thank you very much, I think this truck was maintained by monkeys before I bought it, so far all the things I have found wrong are simple maintenance issues. Ya gota love those cheap, easy fixs. :roll:
 
#5 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

I can only say that there is a full list of 'Legacy' vehicles' lubricants and fluids stored on Jim's sever. I have a hard copy of it but it is at the workshop at the moment and I am home right now. It is a NAS version dated 2005 so it is pretty accurate except that some of the products are no longer available in the UK but may still be available in the US.

Since about 2005, Land Rover have been moving closer to Castol products and away from Havoline/Texaco etc...

The only other help I have here with me now is the Morris Lubricants catalogue for October 2008 which states a 4.6 Thor (post mid '99MY) should be using an EP80/90 in front and rear diffs. They work closely with Land Rover so it would be a very suitable lubricant. That is for the UK market only though. It should be the same for NAS vehicles. :think:
 
#6 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Well I checked the diff and its full and the fluid is clean so I guess I'm gettin out the wrenchs tomorrow, :pray:I guess you can't always get what you want, hopefully it's just a bearing. Thanks again, I really appreciate the advice, ya'll have a good night and I'll keep everyone apprised of the outcome.
 
#7 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Well, I'm back, took the front driveshaft off, went for a drive and the vibration is STILL THERE :lol: I am stumped. I have been sitting here surfing and can't find anything that jumps off the page at me. One sight I read suggested adjusting the play in the strearing box and that's my next step. That makes sense for the high pitch vibration I'm feeling in the steering wheel, it's like I've got a big vibrator tied to the steering column. :pray:
 
#8 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Nope, that didn't do it. Still vibrates, the steering box was nice and tight, didnt have to adjust it at all. anyone?, come on, this must have happened to someone out there or are the gods singling me out just to screw with me? I may be changing my address to the local loony bin soon. :lol:
 
#9 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Howls are usually related to wheel bearings or backlash. I would suspect a pinion bearing or a carrier bearing. So if you have limited skills and a lack of toolage just bring it to a pro. There are no cheap alternatives to quality diagnostics and repairs. Try to pay attention to the frequency of the vibration, is it driveshaft or axle speed related, try running it on a rack or jack stands if you can, it will aid your diagnosis greatly.
 
#10 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Thanks Jim, you confirmed what I have been thinking because it is definitely attached to rim speed and I have been checking prices of those bearings today and hopefully that will be the end of that. Back to the shop I go, I have all the tools, it's the diagnosis thats elusive. I've been suspecting an axle or pinion bearing, just wanted to eliminate the simple first before tearing it down. Now it's time to get dirty, again thanks.
 
#11 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

My rover lightly vibrates at exactly 55mph and then imdiatley goes away after I hit 60. It doesn't rattle the whole vehicle and nor does it cause any reason for alarm, so I'd rather not rip apart the drive line :wink: . I am pretty sure mine is related to the front steering stabilizer bar because it is dented and leaking, my front tires are also a bit bald on the insides aswell which, I think is contributing to it. I hear a very suddle howl in my diff or transmission (don't know where it is coming from) right at 40mph and will go away the moment I get 1mph under or over 40, I am also not to concerned about this because, my other vehicle kinda does the same thing. When you get new diff fluid make sure it is for the right application. I used 80-90w synthetic vavoline gear oil (as per manual instructions). Check your breather tubes, make sure they are not restricted at all or have holes in them. Is your pinion seal leaking any?
 
#12 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Maybe inpect the tyres and brakes? Take each wheel off and check it is even and regular all around. Look to see if the rims or tyres are damaged.

When the wheels are off, just inpect the rotors/discs. Look for cracks in the rotor and make sure they are not warped. If everything checks out, replace wheels and consider and wheel balance, even if you have only done one 5k miles ago.

The vibration must be due to a rotating unit/part somewhere in the front of the car so start with these basics.
 
#13 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Well here's something interesting. I took the front driveshaft off yesterday to see if it would make a differance in my vibration problem and it did'nt and I did'nt have time to put it back on before the wife had to go to work so I just told her to drive it easy and besides she only works a couple of miles away but the thing is when she went to leave work she went out to the truck and it had rolled out into the middle of the parking lot. My question is, should'nt the rear diff lock have held it in place or do you have to have both driveshafts installed for the parking gear to operate? Does it lock with one front wheel and one back wheel? :doh:
 
#14 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

To answer scott's question, I checked the diff level on thursday night and it was clean and topped right up and all my seals are nice and clean and dry. I'm pretty sure Jim at goatwerks had the right idea about it being a bearing in the front diff so I'm going to replace all the bearings in it, it's an easy job to do for me as I have rebuilt many a rearend in my time and I have the tools and bearings are relatively cheap.
 
#15 ·
Re: HELP MEEEE 2001 4.6 hse front diff howl

Any possibility that front diff had seal and flange replaced and bolt [nut] retorqued other than spec. One of our posters had issues with his [massive heat build-up] due to overtightening. He did not mention a noise but problem resolved when torqued properly. Any possibility that ball joints were done and the axles got misaligned in the process. There is an adjuster that if moved could alter the axle from rotating at the same centreline as the axle at the diff unit end. Just a point of interest for me. Keep us informed and good luck.
 
#16 ·
To Jim at Goatwerks: I put it up on jack stands and ran it up to 75mph and no noise was present. It ran completely smooth and quiet. I am thinking it's a wheel bearing because I had the jack stands sitting under the diffs in all 4 corners, so all I did was take the weight off the wheels, everything else acted like it was riding at normal ride height. Then I drained the front diff to pull the axles and I found metal chips and flakes stuck to the magnet on the drain plug, so now I'm thinking Pinion Bearings. The only reason they didn't howl at 75mph was that they weren't under load either. When I drive the truck on the freeway it doesn't seem to be coming from one side or the other, but right in the center of the truck. I've got everything disconnected on the axles, and ready to pull them out, but they wont budge. Do I need a special puller or a B.F.H. to get the axles out? (Heat? cold? W-D 40? or what? ) How do I get these things out??? :think:
 
#19 ·
As you can see, when you compare with the above picture there is 2 bolt holes on top and 2 bolt holes on the bottom. And that's all there is holding my axle in. In every repair instruction list that I've seen it says "remove the bolts and pull the axles out" My question is "How big of a hammer do I need to pull them out?" :lol:
 

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#20 ·
Ok, you are not going crazy. According to my RAVE CD there is only 4 bolts. It must just be stuck on. I would have thought maybe a gasket sealant may be holding it together but there is only an oil seal. By all accounts it should just pull out. Sorry I can't help more, perhaps belt it some more carefully but forcefully. :)
 
#22 ·
Well I did it. I used a 4 lb sledge and just tapped the wheel hub a few times as I spun it and it popped right out in my hands, so I win. :dance: Now for the fun part, to pull the diff and pinion out and pray I caught the bearings early enough to NOT have to replace the races. :pray: I'll be back to let everyone know whats up. :thumb:
 
#23 ·
You will need an inch lb torque wrench to set the pinion bearing preload, and not the clicker type.
Most diffs go 25-35 in lb rotating torque on new bearings. You will also replace the carrier bearings if you don't wish more problems. One last tip inspect the gear facings for damage (dual wear pattern) chipping. Good chance you may replace your howl with a slight whine at times due to wear pattern on gears. That is why most Techs will also replace the gear sets.
 
#24 ·
Just a thought, Big-t.

Have you any record of the parts replaced by the previous owner. I'm wondering if there is a poor quality part in there which is packing up. Are you using the 80w90 diff oil to an API GL4 standard? I'm sure you've checked all this before, but it sounds like you may need to re-check everything. While there, just check the axle breather is ok and clear, all the way up to the top.

The p38 uses a drum handbrake BTW (RE. the info you sent via WSLR website) so it requires the propshaft in place to work. If you are finding the vehicle still moves when 'Park' is selected when both propshafts are in place, then there could be a gearbox issue, but it sounds like yours is ok.

Again, I'd be more inclined to strip the whole axle down as you intend to keep the vehicle a while. The bearings and the upper and lower ball joints are cleap enough if you are already ripping into the axle. I'd still suspect an iffy bearing though. Previous poor quality one? Wear due to incorrect, low or contaminated oil?

If I get chance (or somebody has access to the LR GTR today) I'll check for any TSB's relating to this noise.
 
#25 ·
to anybody still checking this thread I fixed my howling problem. Go to: vibrations in my 01 4.6 HSE drive train: and check out the videos and pics of the solution. :clap: :clap: :lol: :lol:
 
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