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Discussion Starter #1
Help!

I'm in the middle of my way home from New York, NY to Iowa and my rover said EAS fault and lowered itself to the bump stops. Is there anybody in Youngstown, OH area or along I-80 in the direction of Chicago who could meet me today or tomorrow morning with EAS serial cable/EAS buddy box so I can quickly diagnose the system and patch it somehow so I can get back home?
 

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Well, I'm definitely not near you, but if you happen to have your laptop w/ you, why don't you download EASUnlock from RSW, and fix it that way?

All you need to do is to buy some cable from hardware store, stop by computer store to get a serial port connection, then get an OBD connector(auto store, truck stop, etc). Worst case, I suppose you can buy the cheapest OBD you can find and take it apart to get the desired connections. You can probably achieve this, McGyver style for under $50. And, once home you should place an order for the EAS Buddy.

Good luck.
 

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tow it.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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hey Tomasz I just left you a phone message..

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the advices and offered help. The funny thing is that I have the cable for the suspension - I just left it at home this time.

Anyway - after about 10 minutes of waiting the EAS somehow jacked up the car to the highway position so I pushed as far west as I could and I almost made it to Illinois. But then I had to fill up and it did not raise itself then so now I'm a little bit stuck in La Porte, IN. I hope it will lift itself in the morning so I can continue. From what I was able to diagnose the compressor is running fine, there is a pressure in the system (my gauge is showing up to 150psi) but the valve body is malfunctioning - I can hear regular clicks there but I don't feel anything on the valves and obviously nothing happens :-( Looks like stuck valve or something. 16 deg F probably did not help either. Oh well, we'll see tomorrow.
 

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it's a bit of a back-track, but check out PT schram, btlrovers.com, in fort wayne.

don't tell him I sent you, he hates p38's, especially the EAS, although he can/will fix it.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Try to find a NAPA, they sell a fitting that is a schrader valve on top, and a 1/4" airline fitting on the bottom. Install the fittings and air it up.
The fittings are by the equalizers and air fitting they sell for dually's etc.
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
leftlanetruckin said:
Try to find a NAPA, they sell a fitting that is a schrader valve on top, and a 1/4" airline fitting on the bottom. Install the fittings and air it up.
The fittings are by the equalizers and air fitting they sell for dually's etc.
Martin
Yes, I saw them and thought it's a great idea. But all in all I did not needed them - the Range made it almost all the way home. We were less than 100 miles away so I just called a friend to come and pick me up. Then I took my laptop and cable and went back to the Range.
The initial fault read said:
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : FR valve stuck closed

Then I turned the compressor manually, went to calibration tab in the software and commanded it to go to normal height which it nicely did for me so I got back home without any further incidents.

Now I need to rebuild valve block (which BTW was already exchanged for a used one by previous owner). Funny thing though, when I tried to read fault codes again after getting home this is what I got:
0 : FL signal incorrect
1 : F8:2_Hidden
2 : FR signal incorrect
3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
1 : Vehicle speed fault
2 : Pressure signal constantly high
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : Cannot lower FR
2 : Cannot lower RL
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
2 : RL valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden
0 : FL signal incorrect
1 : F8:2_Hidden
2 : FR signal incorrect
3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
1 : Vehicle speed fault
2 : Pressure signal constantly high
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : Cannot lower FR
2 : Cannot lower RL
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
2 : RL valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

That got me thinking a little bit. My only hope is that this whole set of crap is because the car was driving with cable and EAS software connected. We'll see later.

Thans again for any help.
 

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Hopefully, Shupack'll chime in to offer advice as to what the codes(initial ones) mean. As for the latter set of codes, I'm pretty certain that it was due to bad cable connection. Happens to me all the time.
 

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because the car was driving with cable and EAS software connected
yes, that will confuse the ECU and it will vomit lots of codes. driving with the cable connected isn't a good plan unless you're watching sensor readings etc..

the original code, FR valve stuck closed typically points to a weak compressor, especially if the FR actually came up right after that. 90% of the time it's combined with leaks in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
shupack said:
because the car was driving with cable and EAS software connected
yes, that will confuse the ECU and it will vomit lots of codes. driving with the cable connected isn't a good plan unless you're watching sensor readings etc..
the original code, FR valve stuck closed typically points to a weak compressor, especially if the FR actually came up right after that. 90% of the time it's combined with leaks in the system.
I'm not sure it's a weak compressor as it pumps strong and is able to quickly get the system from empty to prescribed 120 psi (actually it stops around 140 on my gauge). Anyway, yesterday I took the EAS module out of the car and started disassembling it. Right now I can say for sure that somebody was previously messing up with it without proper 'technical culture' involved - some bolts holding body together have partially stripped heads, the bolts holding driver module were only hand screwed about 1/2 way in and after taking just two valves apart I was able to see o-rings not really flat lying in their places. Oh well. Now I wave to wait when you ship me my order so I can continue rebuild.

I ordered suggested above air intake valves (6mm pneumatic on one end, shradder valve on another). I'll mount them on airbag lines at the valve body end and will test bags and tank this way before putting everything back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Tomasz said:
I ordered suggested above air intake valves (6mm pneumatic on one end, shradder valve on another). I'll mount them on airbag lines at the valve body end and will test bags and tank this way before putting everything back together.
Small follow up - after I installed the valves and pumped the car up it turned out that both of my rear bags are leaking badly - the front ones lowered less than 1/8" over the night, the rears - more than 1.5". I assume that due to the habit of lowering it to access mode every single time I park the car I had no chance of noticing it before. So now Gen III springs are on order, hopefully will get here before weekend.
 

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You did check your fittings at both the bags and the valve block correct? An automotive stethoscope is a nice addition to the Rover toolbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
NorCal RR said:
You did check your fittings at both the bags and the valve block correct? An automotive stethoscope is a nice addition to the Rover toolbox.
I don't have a stethoscope but I have soap and water :) I was able to eliminate some remaining leaks on the line connections which _almost_ cured one spring - it went down only about .5" over night. The other one still leaks badly - more than 1" over night (less than 12h).

Now when I think about it, when I bought this car earlier this year and checked the suspension the very same wheel was constatntly reporting changes in heights, like every 30 seconds. I atributed it then to failing height sensor, but apparently it was already leaking back then.

Anyway - I always wanted III gen springs, I just couldn't justify the cost when everything "was working". Now I could convince myself to buy a set fr rear axle. Unfortunately front springs are more than OK so those will have to wait for Gen III (unless I discover that changing just one axle will cause it to behave strange - but I doubt it).
 
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