RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've just taken my door latch apart, in order to replace the microswitches, but found some other problems!

Maybe I should mention why I wanted to replace the microswitches first (as it is listed ind my other thread): Randomly locking and unlocking, interior lights won't come on, when drivers door (LHD) is opened, but switch on, when other doors are opened or unlocked with remote, if not superlocked, it won't stay locked... BTW: It's a MY 2000, so it has the new latches with the microswitches mounted together...

So i managed to get the latch out (very fiddly), opened it and found out, there where some loose parts, especially one plastic axis, broken off the housing (#1 in the image, referring to both the axis and the place, it should be), the spring (#3), and the plastic part (#2). I guess, I can manage to refit the axis with epoxy, but I don't know where the spring and the other plastic "tongue" is going...

IMAG0478.jpg

Just to be sure, the #4 arrows, one pointing to the locking motor, the other on the gear wheel, am I right to assume the motor spins, and the spring-loaded pin on the axis is slung out by centrifugal force and picks up the brown gear wheel (also #4)? It just sits loose on the motor-axis, when not spun (I haven't tried to put current on the motor, to see if it works).

And the little motor, I assume, is the superlock-motor, and engages the #5? And i have the suspicion that the spring (#3) has to be fit into there?

Is it a total, do I have to buy a new lock (a bit expensive) or can I get it together again?

Does anyone have pictures of the latch inside, knows where to fit the spring and the plastic-tongue?

Edit: Unfortunately the picture is very small, how do I attach a bigger one?

Edit again: Took out the passenger door latch and opened it, found the placement of the broken parts. The thing now is, is it possible to glue...

IMAG0479.jpg

Next thing is to get the microswitches replaced, I have 5 single switches, and I've seen a thread with pictures how to do it on an new type latch - just can't find it... If it's necessary to change them, the broken "tongue" could have something to do with my problems.

Anyone done this? Images? Tipps? Which contacts on the switches do I need to connect (there are three - but I could test with a multimeter)?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Doesn't work - the plastic bits are too brittle to glue, even with epoxy...

So ordered new one from the Island.

Turned out, the middle switch was not working, the #5 was lying around in the bottom of the latch (hence the cracking sound, when superlocking) and the door ajar switch didn't work because the contact glider (#2) was broken off (the right arrow in the second image).

Bummer...
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
Just seen this,

Probably could have supplied all the parts you are requiring as I've got a fair number of latches in bits and spare parts lying around.

The microswitches are a pain to do though - all of the ones that are moulded together that I replace, I use some m2.5 threaded rod through the holes, and then put new holes in the casing and the plastic piece where the motors are to secure the switches in the right places. The older latches are actually easier to work on from that respect!

Marty
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hi Marty - I actually thought of you (and GilbertD), but I understood, last time we wrote about funny (and unexplainable) lock behaviour, you didn't have any parts for the new latch. And I was kind of in a hurry, having all the bits and pieces and not sure, I could get them together again. And I didn't like the prospect of driving around in a car I couldn't lock. Or would superlocj itself and not to be opened again...

I probably could have sorted the switches (would have to get some M2.5 screws or similar (as you mention), but friday was a holiday in DK (and living far out in the country, slightly special things like that can be hard to find here).

I'm quite curious if it solves the problem with the interiour lights. As I see, at least two switch functions were compromised (tested them in the passenger door, no faults), I don't know if you remember, the cabin lights wouldn't come on, if drivers (LHD, LH) door was opened, but display complaining about door open.

When I get the new latch, I'll experiment a little further with the switches on the old, maybe I can find a way to get them in the right place - and keep them there. Could be the constant locking-cycle was too much for the plastic, so it broke and made the problem worse.

I managed to glue the axle of the superlock arm, so it's in place again, when testing it superlocks after the 15 seconds delay, but without the grinding sound, it made before.

BTW, I had some trouble finding the right latch type, as Island4x4 claimed the new one to be for MJ 2001-2002, and mine is 2000 (first registered december 1999), but according to VIN, mine has the new types (as seen on the images). And found a price at a German parts pusher: around 280 € compared to the Island's 100 €!
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Just checked Microcat for you and it appears that all of the earlier latches have been superseded by FQJ103250.

VIN From VA351307 - ALR6955 superseded by FQJ103250
VA351308 to WA403803 - ASR2463 superseded by FQJ103250
WA403804 to WA410481 - FQJ102010 superseded by FQJ103250
XA410482 to XA430701 - FQJ103250
YA430702 to end - FQJ103290

So FQJ103250 is the correct one for everyone except those with a very late car.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hi Gilbert

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree...

I ordered the FQJ103290 because my VIN is YA432XXX, one of the, as you put it, very late cars. Despite this, my car has been registered first time December, 1. 1999, which makes it a MY 2000 (as I understand model years). So Microcat and dealers must be wrong.

This suits the fact, that I have the new type of latch in the car (can't remember the specific differences, but checked it earlier and Marty agrees).

What the heck is wrong here, I don't know - and as the latch arrives and I'm going to install it, I'll see who/what is right.

I'll let you (all) know i guess monday (given the weather is all right)
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
The one you have ordered should be correct, the first letter signifies the model year, so:

V is 97MY, built 96-97
W is 98MY, built 97-98
X is 99MY, built 98-99
Y is 00MY, built 99-00
1 is 01MY, built 00-01

Meaning your car is a 2000MY but registered at the end of 1999.

Model year changed around October in each year so that any changes for the year could be in the dealers for the start of that year, a customer buying a car on 1 Jan 2000 wouldn't want a 99 model after all.

The rest of the VIN can be decoded here http://www.expeditiongear.co.za/cu5/Decoding-your-Land-Rover-VIN-Number.aspx
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Gilbert, calms me a bit.

BTW, off topic, is there a way to identify the trim level of my car? There wasn't any badges on the tailgate, yet it's pretty well equipped. As many others, I'm having a hard time to decifre SE, HSE, DS and what ever there is. Or is it a matter of comparing the model year listing on the homepage (of rangerovers.net)? I guess there's a difference, since I've got the Diesel (and it's a Swiss car)
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
The trim levels are hard to tell on the later models. As they were getting closer to the runout at the 01/02 MY I think it became a bit of a mish-mash of what went in vs what they had left...

If I could get my version of Microcat to work again, then I could punch the VIN number into it and it would show all of the trim level options that it was shipped with from the factory.

Regarding the latch/parts... I could have supplied individual internal latch parts most probably - I just don't have the electrical board with the wiring and connectors from the later model LHD - I've only go the earlier style electrical boards.

The other plastic parts are all fairly interchangeable.

The latch you have ordered should be correct - as Gilbertd says, the Model Year changes towards the end of the year (I thought it may be as early as August/September), so your YA registered in 1999 is a 2000 MY. My 01 is a 1A or 2001MY but was registered pretty early in January 2001, though the build date shows actually shows it coming off the production line a few months earlier.

Once you have replaced the latch - if you don't want the old one anymore, then I am happy to pay for postage to get it to me here - having the later style wiring for a LHD would be quite useful as it isn't one of the ones I currently have.

Regards,
Marty
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm sure we could work something out, so you can get a newer LHD latch. I have fiddled aa bitwith the mould around the switches, so it's not in pristine condition. But if you only need information about the wiring, I can take pictures and draw you a diagram (isn't there one in the Rave?).

I know from German manufacturers, they start a new model year after summer vacation, "Betriebsferien". So I guess they are taking the opportunity of summertime to make changes to the production line according to face-lifts and modifications.
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Yes, it might even be earlier. Mine is a 98MY with a build date of 15 November 97.

The differences in trim levels are, as Marty says, a bit odd. You could order one trim level but specify other options to get it closer to the higher one. The early SE (or DSE if a diesel), didn't have leather seats but almost all customers ordered it as an extra cost option as it was much cheaper to buy an SE with the optional leather than it was to buy an HSE (or DHSE) with it as standard. Then you had the other oddball ones, the Vogue, Vogue SE too before we even start on the 'limited editions'. The one that amuses me is that in the UK the County was about as basic as you could get with virtually no options at all yet in the US the County was a much higher spec. If you ask a Land Rover dealer for a printout for your car, as well as giving you all the useful stuff like EKA code, Radio code, paint code, etc, it will also tell you what trim level it is and what, if any, options it was ordered with.
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
I'm sure we could work something out, so you can get a newer LHD latch. I have fiddled aa bitwith the mould around the switches, so it's not in pristine condition. But if you only need information about the wiring, I can take pictures and draw you a diagram (isn't there one in the Rave?).

I know from German manufacturers, they start a new model year after summer vacation, "Betriebsferien". So I guess they are taking the opportunity of summertime to make changes to the production line according to face-lifts and modifications.
I would be after the whole latch... I know how the electrical side all works - but it's more having the physical connector and housing for it all. I am not bothered about bits that have been damaged as I have all the various parts to make the latch whole again, and when fitting the new microswitches, I carve out a couple of chunks of the plastic anyway to fit the nuts on for the threaded rod.

I am still trying to find what the later style connectors are - the older ones are all Tyco Econoseal, which are easy to source if one is damaged - but the later style where it's just one single connector is proving to be a pain to find!

Yes, it might even be earlier. Mine is a 98MY with a build date of 15 November 97.

The differences in trim levels are, as Marty says, a bit odd. You could order one trim level but specify other options to get it closer to the higher one. The early SE (or DSE if a diesel), didn't have leather seats but almost all customers ordered it as an extra cost option as it was much cheaper to buy an SE with the optional leather than it was to buy an HSE (or DHSE) with it as standard. Then you had the other oddball ones, the Vogue, Vogue SE too before we even start on the 'limited editions'. The one that amuses me is that in the UK the County was about as basic as you could get with virtually no options at all yet in the US the County was a much higher spec. If you ask a Land Rover dealer for a printout for your car, as well as giving you all the useful stuff like EKA code, Radio code, paint code, etc, it will also tell you what trim level it is and what, if any, options it was ordered with.
And don't forget that in around 1997, Land Rover started the Autobiography program too, which you could then take a bog standard vehicle (be it SE, HSE, Vogue, DSE, DHSE or whatever really) and then add any manner of other bits to it which weren't in the 'standard' optional extras catalogue... things from different custom pain colours, leather colours, more wood - be it gearshift, handbrake, top of the cubby box etc... Some of the Autobiography items were included in other special editions - but not as options from standard production models...

Pretty much any way LR could make a few hundred extra ££ on top of the list price, and they would :)
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top