RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought my Rover 4 years ago with a leaking heater core from a Rover mechanic. He got tired of replacing the heater core. I swapped in the Audi heater core as recommended. and went straight to the engine block, eliminating all of the aluminum pipes, o-rings, and connections. It has always used a little coolant and recently got worse. I realized it was a bad heater core (Audi). I went and swapped it out under warranty and installed it as if it were made of the most delicate material. It leaked worse and instantly. I was fortunate to not have put everything back. The core was made by Murray part number 94652 MHT. I am going to look for a different supplier and will test the new one prior to installation. Hope I didn't cause worry in some and hope to help others thinking of the swap to do so but to test the core before installation.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
218 Posts
I used a Nissens core. All good 12 month in.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
164 Posts
What model Audi and what part number from Nissens? I had good luck with their products so far, be they radiators or AC condensers.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
126 Posts
Thanks for the info, please keep let us know what you end up getting.

Mine broke also a couple of months ago. I installed in December 2018 and only about 4,000 miles ago. I have not removed the glove box to investigate yet but just did the bypass and will get to it later.

When I searched for the Audi heater cores to buy I searched for 70230 and 70230 and purchased one that came up on ebay. I went back to my records but could not find the one I got or anything that showed the manufacture.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
OK...so I finally got one that hasn't leaked for a whopping 100 miles and 2 weeks. It is an OSC 98652 from ebay for $65. It looks just like the others but hasn't leaked yet. I am not sure what is causing the problems other than poor manufacturing. I thought it might be too high of pressure from the Rover, but I looked up a replacement radiator cap for an Audi, and the pressure is much higher than the Rover. I will look at getting the Nissens next time. By the way, my P38 would every several months have an error that would stop the EAS from functioning. I bypassed the EAS timer a year ago with a toggle switch and have not had that happen since. Also rigged a momentary switch to re-mobilize the engine when it randomly becomes immobilized. Might eventually be a reliable vehicle someday!
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
126 Posts
"I will look at getting the Nissens next time." - classic, only a P38 owner would subject themselves to this :)
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
It is one mod I don't like. I think it is potentially dangerous having hose clips behind the dash.
Clips can fly off suddenly ......... think of it, boiling water under pressure spraying out causing scalds.
What is the worst that can happen with o-rings? It starts to drip. I would stick with the OEM design.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,428 Posts
+1, the original design worked for many years. Just because the O rings need to be replaced after about 15-20 years doesn't seem like a massive design flaw like some seem to suggest. You wouldn't try to re-engineer the entire steering system because track rod ends needed replacing after 10 years would you?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Klondike ken

·
Registered
Joined
·
571 Posts
My original heater had issues with the molding where the o-rings sit so abandoned trying to get it to seal.

As I needed the replace the core, went the Audi route & installed it in 2014. Used good quality jubilee clips on the pipes, and no issues since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
My original heater had issues with the molding where the o-rings sit so abandoned trying to get it to seal.
As I needed the replace the core, went the Audi route & installed it in 2014. Used good quality jubilee clips on the pipes, and no issues since.
Same here, I tried multiple times to get a new o-ring to seal then realized the metal housing was cracked. By that point I was sick of working under the dash with coolant soaked carpet everywhere. I feel that the issue was that the connection wasn't built heavy enough. There's quite a bit of leverage if the pipes aren't perfectly aligned. I didn't see it as re-engineering to change one connection and add a short section of hose. I double clamped it with quality clamps, don't see them randomly flying off. My passenger side carpet never really recovered from that little drip.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The jubilee clamps and hoses have been used on cars for many decades without as much failure as what I've seen. Eliminating metal and hoses/clamps was not to make the cars better or safer....it was simply to cut cost. All of these new plastic bits get crumbly after several years of heat from the engine bay and coolant. Copper and stainless steel don't do that, but they do cost more.
I have replaced 5 heater cores in my time. One was on a 1957 Pontiac, which only blew because it was a 60-year-old original and I put a radiator cap on that had too high of pressure. The other 4 have been on the same &%*&$ Range Rover which I think started leaking again. I am stupidly thinking "it must be antifreeze that's just dripping out from the previous heater core leaks." This same Rover was sold to me by a Rover mechanic because his customer/owner was tired of replacing heater cores on it every other year (with factory plastic/aluminum). I bought it with the core bypassed. So how many heater cores has this one eaten? Not really sure, but I'm going to ignore that problem for now and enjoy replacing the front airsprings. Again....or just look for a cool sticker to put on it.
 

·
Registered
95 mad max disco 2000 P38 4.0 upgraded to 4.6
Joined
·
39 Posts
Changed my heater core with an audi unit.
Went through passenger footwell..All clamps and hoses appear dry.
Got 400 miles on it now
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ken,
Where is your core from (part number and supplier)? Mine seems to be leaking erratically...some days a slight drip and other days bone dry. I was excited about the Nissens until I realized that it is plastic and aluminum. I know they will likely last several years, but that's not long enough. In the meantime, I found a pinhole leak in the radiator near the fitting that goes to the overflow. I'm going to cut off a piece of extra plastic from the radiator and melt it there. Hopefully it will work.
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,224 Posts
I went the Audi core route too - and use a Nissens 70230. On the V8, I've run 19mm hose direct from the heater core outlets, through the firewall into the engine bay and onto the metal pipework. Only 1 clamp on each hose inside the vehicle, and I went with heavy duty Mikalor worm drive clamps rather then cheap knockoff jubilee clamps. I think I even put a dab of loctite on them to stop them from loosening with the heat cycling. I remember having to nip the clamps up once after installation and running it for awhile (which is probably when I put the loctite on). But all good since then.
 

·
Registered
95 mad max disco 2000 P38 4.0 upgraded to 4.6
Joined
·
39 Posts
Ken,
Where is your core from (part number and supplier)? Mine seems to be leaking erratically...some days a slight drip and other days bone dry. I was excited about the Nissens until I realized that it is plastic and aluminum. I know they will likely last several years, but that's not long enough. In the meantime, I found a pinhole leak in the radiator near the fitting that goes to the overflow. I'm going to cut off a piece of extra plastic from the radiator and melt it there. Hopefully it will work.

Got mine on ebay
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,449 Posts
Marty_nz,
I remember you got badly scalded earlier on this year when your heater blew behind the dash. Trying to drive at night on the motorway while being sprayed with boiling hot water is pretty traumatic in my book. You were lucky to walk away from it. I asked you on another forum was it caused by this Audi heater mod? and you said it wasn't, so not the hose that flew off. Correct? It was the heater core that failed. Is that right? If so what make? and any lessons to be learned? How did the boiling water spray out ? The heater matrix is surrounded by the plastic case.
Sorry to bring it up mate, but this subject needs airing. I don't like the Audi heater mod, or jubilee clips for that matter.
Dave
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top