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After purchasing my Range Rover, I was only 2 weeks into ownership and one of the biggest known problems of the P38 reared it's ugly head: the heater core and it's o-rings leaking inside the cabin. Luckily, the task of changing out the o-rings on a Left Hand Drive (LHD) Range Rover is fairly easy using the shortcuts posted here: http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13985, but after sucessfully changing them I discovered that the coolant leak was actually coming from the heater core itself. :evil: After frantically searching the main site and this forum, I found a brief mention that the entire dash removal (along with the steering column) was NOT necessary for LHD vehicles if you "cut a bracket and bend something out of the way"... but... there were no detailed specifics or photos to elaborate the procedure further. So I'm posting my adventure of changing out the heater core without removing the dash to show the shortcuts involved with this task.

This is how far the passenger side interior needs to be disassembled. This includes cutting the rear passenger side duct in half and removing the lower half to access the heater core connections, as well as removing the passenger kick panel. Notice the plastic on the side of the center console has been cut out to give access to the upper duct screw and the heater core connection screw (with a long screw driver or extension).


One cut and a small notch needs to be made on a metal bracket under the dashboard so that the bottom of the dashboard can be bent out of the way slightly to slide the heater core out of it's compartment.


Three bolts at the bottom of the dashboard mounts need to be removed in the passenger footwell.


The bottom of the dash can now be pulled out just enough to slide the heater core out of it's compartment after the pipes have been disconnected and the lower distribution servo has been removed (two small screws).


Once the new heater core has been installed, the bracket that was cut is now braced with some aluminum flat stock and self tapping screws.


I'm not sure if this method would be of any help to the RHD owners, but i hope it's helpful to the LHD folks. I was very happy that this repair could be done in just a few hours time using these shortcuts. :)
 

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Excellent write up! Thanks for the picks. I'll send this on to John for posting on the main site.
 

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Excellent. We need to turn that into a page for the main site.

I looked a something like that for my RHD car but the steering column etc gets in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ka177ran said:
Superb handiwork - The centre console cutout finish is superb :thumb:

Did you use a dremel type tool?
Thanks for the comments everyone! :)

Yes, dremel tool to cut out the center console and then a small file to smooth it out.
 

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The ingenuity displayed in this forum never ceases to amaze me! :clap:

A small but perhaps helpful amendment if I may be so bold.... :wink:

Once the new heater core has been installed, the bracket that was cut is now braced with some aluminum flat stock and self tapping screws.
My suggestion for first timers is that prior to the bracket cut being made, the bracing is measured up, drilled and screwed into place on the bracket, :shock: then remove it and cut and bend the bracket etc. This will ensure that the dimensional integrity of the complete assembly will be as close to original as possible when reassembled, reducing any distortion which may occur from the bending and the width of the cut....just a thought!

well done & thanks again
 

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Gentlemen,
Thank you for your contribution to this issue! I am having some trouble viewing the pictures though. I recently purchased a 2007 RRS that is showing symptoms of this same issue. Is there any way you could email me the pictures? My email address is [email protected] I am from Bartlett, TN. Thank you in advance


Thanks for this great writeup -- I have adapted it for the main site at https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... rcore.html

If anyone has anything to add please email me!

Many thanks again

John
 

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I was in the process of following this shortcut to replay the heater o-rings when I discovered that the plate that holds the o-ring in place was cracked and causing the leak. So rather than replace the o-ring, I replaced the core with the Audi core and bypassed the o-ring altogether. You should be able to find the Audi replacement core information by searching, I can't remember but I followed the information provided in the posts and it still going strong years later.
 

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This shortcut is great but I highly recommend using it to go straight to the Audi heater core upgrade.

I was daunted by that project at first so tried replacing the o-rings. Of course the core was leaking from elsewhere so I tried a new heater core with the o-rings. As I have read elsewhere it wouldn't line up correctly with those awful aluminum pipes.

So Plan-C was replacing it with the Audi heater core. It works great and no more o-rings ever again. Save yourself all the headaches I had and go straight for the upgrade!
 

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Hello,

I am a frenchi so sorry for my bad english...
I have to change my heater core and thank's for the explanation here.
I have done exactly what is explain here but i can't move the dash after removing the three bolts and cut the dash. It is very hard to move and just few milimeters.
To slide the heater core the dash have to be push down but before it have to be pull rear to escape the 2 screws and it s nearly impossible.
What s wrong ?
I put 3 photos of my situation :

the right side move a litle when i trie to pull it

283161


the left side : move only with a screw driver and only for 2 or 3 milimeters

283162


And the cutting done :

283163


thank's for advices !
 

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I did mine over a year ago, so my memory is a bit hazy. I think there may have been a fourth screw I needed to remove. When you pull the dash forward, you do need to pull a bit, as you are bending the metal dash structure just a little.
 

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Hello,

I try to find a forgoten screw but nothing...

I am stopped by the fact that i can't bend down the lower part of the dash because of the threaded shaft.
Any advice ?
 
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