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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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What boards are you changing? The dude in the original swap thread bought a 2009 steering wheel to steel the button for the heated wheel and installed it on the later wheel. You are all over the place here. Are you reading any of the threads I linked?
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Yes I have. All of them!

To Recap, I have bought a 2011 RRS wheel with heat and switches/controls. I know that I have to update my clock spring (although I have not checked what I have, but since it’s a 2007). I also bought the plug/pigtail/wires to power the heat for the clock spring.

As I understand it, I am being told to change the boards in my 2011 switches/controls with boards from BBS, including the heated steering switch to make the 2011 switches work on my 2007 L320. Per the BBS website and comments from forums, I am supposed to change the boards inside the controls for the 2011 steering wheel to work on my 2007 L320.

Yes I am as confused as it reads on my comments.

Thank you.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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510 Posts

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Registered
2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I have not ordered them but I will.

What happens while I wait for the boards and I install the 2011 wheel/controls/heat on my 2007? Which functionalities will and will not work? Should I wait until I get the BBS boards before changing the wheel because the car will not work properly and error out?

Thank you.


-John
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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510 Posts
I have no idea what will work or why you even need to change the boards. Sometimes I'm bored at work and try to help out.
The shipping from Cyprus to Canada when I have dealt with BBS before was fairly quick. I'm sure you can survive the wait.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
I’ll check the plugs to look at the differences between the 2007 and 2011 wheels/controls. If there is none, I’ll just plug them in and see what happens.

The downside I think is if I order these boards and end up not needing them, then I’ll be stuck with them forever, or take a loss

Thank you for being very helpful. I appreciate it.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Update!!!

I was able to do on this over the weekend, and i have some pointers for the next guy:

  1. Clock Spring - there is a sight glass at the ~ 4 o'clock position that shows if the clock spring is "in the middle"/centered in terms of rotation. There should be a white or yellow piece that shows on the sight glass, and the "middle" is about 3 full turns from either side. If you are "off center" and put the steering wheel back on, you will probably not able to feel the over-rotation when you are driving and ending up breaking the internals of the click spring which can damage the electrical connections between the car and electrical on your wheel, including the Air Bag.
  2. Disconnecting the Battery during Air Bag removal/Installation - there has been some people who have been removing Air Bags without this, and they say it is ok. The main worry for me from what I have been reading, is that if you have an Air Bag error, you might need it reset at the dealer.
  3. Removing the Air Bag - make sure that your tool has something good to pull on (like a T-Handle). Since your Air Bag as been there since you bought the car, they can be a bear to remove. The guides on the back cover of the steering wheel are angled down, so follow that all the way with the tool, them come up to hook the clamp that hold the Air Bag to the steering wheel, and pull.
  4. Power for the Heat for the Wheel - the website where I bought the connector from, has a note that the power to the heat for the wheel to be at 10A, and has a "Plug and Play" version, which piggy-backs to the cigarette lighter power, which is through a 15A Fuse. I spent the extra time routing the power towards the Interior Fuse Box P101. I ended up removing the center console and tapping my ground on the Cig Lighter's, but kept going to said Fuse Box.
  5. The Fuse for the cigarette lighter is directly connected to the Battery 12V (the Relay is after the Fuse) - you can accidentally leave your Heat SW on after you get out of the car, which to me is not good. I dug through the schematic and found Fuse 34, which is for interior accessories. This fuse has a relay before it, meaning that the car has to be on before power is available at the fuse. I bought a piggy-back fuse and added a 10A for the power to for the Steering Heat. Fuse 34 is also a spare fuse, but it looks like a lot of digging and disconnecting has to happen to be able to find a factory-type way of using the stock wiring for the wheel.
  6. When applying the Piggy Back fuse such as THIS - MICRO2® Fuse Adapter - 32V DC, 10 Amp - make sure that the flow of power follows where the wire/pigtail goes so you do not end up bypassing the fuse on both the wheel and the Fuse you are piggy-backing on. You bypass the Fuse from the hot side to the Heat Power Wire and having both new and old Fuses in parallel if you apply the Piggy-Back upside-down.
The install was relatively easy. I read some guides along the way. The 2010 - 2013 steering wheels look great and the heat is better than i expected.

Thank you again for the help of everyone here, with special mention to Rayodunne. I will see how i can add some photos of my install.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
PS

I just noticed the there is no Voice Command button on my 2011 wheel! Is the button/loom/function from my 2007 wheel transferrable?
 
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