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LEGACY VENDOR
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I finally got the time to have a look at my LH Bi-Xenon headlamp yesterday which has been playing up for ages – intermittently refusing to ‘ignite’ until the second or third attempt on the switch. The Xenon bulb costs over £150 from Land Rover and the gas discharge control module £230 so I had my fingers crossed that a dodgy connection might be the culprit.

Anyway, I took a few photos along the way in case it might be of interest/help to others. (The process is the same for the RH light but the air filter must be removed first).

There are enough warning stickers on these headlamps regarding high voltage (28,000V) that I decided I’d better disconnect the battery first. I find it easier to do this (& anything else under the bonnet, for that matter) with the bonnet raised to its ‘service’ position. Also, by the time I’d sorted the bonnet out, the required 2 minutes had elapsed from removing the key to disconnecting the battery negative lead to ensure there’s no damage to the sat. nav. computer & fuel gauge.


Difference between ‘normal’ & ‘service’ open bonnet position


Hinge with bonnet in ‘service’ position

Next step was to remove the front grille (just 3 screws and the ambient temperature sensor connector) and then the side/indicator light. The side/indicator light is held in position by the plastic nut shown below :



Remove this (best to make sure you keep hold of the three-winged nut because, as I found to my cost, it can be a pain to retrieve if you drop it!) and the light can then be unclipped & slid forwards (protect the bumper to prevent it getting scratched) to give access to the two multiplugs that need to be disconnected :



and then it can be removed completely.

Next step is to remove the headlamp wiper. First, the wiper arm end cap is pulled back to reveal the locking nut :



Once the nut is removed the wiper arm should waggle off its spline.

Next off is the plastic embellisher that surrounds the wiper drive spindle – just held on by the three clips that you can see in the picture :



So finally we get to the headlamp itself, which is held in situ by four screws :



Once the screws are removed, the whole headlight unit can be manoeuvred forwards, again protecting the bumper with a cloth to prevent it getting scratched, and the two multiplugs (main beam & dipped beam) disconnected allowing the complete unit to be removed from the vehicle.


Quite a lump. Costs £600 from your Land Rover dealer.

My Vogue is fitted with the halogen main beam :



and the Xenon dipped beam :



For the sake of completeness, at this stage I’d better include this quote from the Owner’s Manual “Replacement or maintenance of Xenon lights should only be carried out by qualified personnel. Used Xenon lights contain mercury, which is hazardous and can be injurious to health. Handling of the DS2 Xenon bulb must be performed using suitable protective equipment, e.g. gloves and goggles. The glass part of the bulb must not be touched”. Ho hum.

You can see below that the Halogen & the Xenon bulbs look quite different :


The Xenon DS2 bulb is over 30 times more expensive than the Halogen H7U one, from your Land Rover dealer!


Also visible in the Xenon side of the headlamp is the white lever at the top on the photo that allows ‘driving-on-the-left to driving-on-the-right’ beam adjustment (for Brits taking Rangey on holiday to the Continent) and also, to the right on the photo, the (silver coloured) solenoid which is the shutter controller allowing the Xenon bulb to be used for both dipped and main beam (i.e. Bi-Xenon).



I swapped over the Xenon bulbs from the LH & RH headlamps to see if the problem transferred over, in an attempt to determine if it were the bulb or the Xenon control module that were causing the fault. The control module can be seen below :


3 Torx screws secure the gas discharge control unit to the headlamp assembly


Headlamp assembly with the gas discharge control unit removed

This is the hole that’s left once the headlamp assembly is removed. Provides great access to the bottom of the coolant header tank, oil filter housing, etc. You can even spot the elusive alternator through it!



At the bottom you can see the mounting bracket for the headlamp :



For anyone with a cracked lens, the good news is that this can be replaced relatively cheaply (£40). The NAS lens is slightly different to ‘other markets’ and costs a bit more.



These are two of the clips that hold the headlamp lens to the headlamp body. These clips will scratch the bumper when the whole light is reinserted if you don’t protect the paintwork first.

Re-assembly, as they say in all the best manuals, is simply the reverse of removal. The fiddliest bit I found was getting the headlamp assembly back on to its mounting bracket – it’s very close to the bumper.

Once everything was back together I reconnected the negative lead to the battery, dropped the bonnet back down to its normal opening position and reconnected the bottom of each strut, started the engine & turned the steering wheel to full left & then full right-hand lock to allow the DSC system to relearn the steering wheel position and extinguish the warning lights.

Then, the moment of truth. I was pleased to find that both lights fired up immediately so I may have hit lucky and just had a dodgy connection all along. Fingers crossed - time will tell.

Phil
 

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Excellent guide, Phil. Thank you! So much clearer than the RAVE version. (maybe you should speak to Haynes about that missing RR manual of theirs ;) )

Fingers crossed you have that problem fixed now.
 

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Thank you for this timely post. My new lens arrives today and now I have detailed instructions on how to install!
 

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You for got the one warning that states "staring at exposed bulbs for extended period over 2 hours may cause blindness" you gotta love it. Ps. good tip on that wing nut for some reason when I put my halos in I believed my owners manual that the " Retention nut is secured to the fender via retaining strap to prevent it from becoming lodged in the engine compartment" so had to buy new ones
 

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Phil,

Thanks again for the instructions. I replaced the cracked lens on my RR this weekend. Total time was about 20 minutes.

Best,
 

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Phil,
Did this solve the problem? I have the same problem and took it to the dealership (Cadillac) where I bought the car, I sent them the link to this thread and they bought the ballast then installed it but when I went to pick it up late last week it did the same thing (right side went out until a few turns of the switch) So they called up the only RR dealership with 50 miles of me, where the car was kept for 48hrs and they returned it to me this afternoon supposedly fixed but when I started it in their presence and tested the light, it did the same thing again.

I'm actually starting to feel bad for the folks at the Cadillac dealership where I bought the car because they are stumped.

Malcolm
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Malcolm,

Yes, in my case I was lucky and I haven't had a recurrence of the problem since. On the other hand Ace95, for example, wasn't so lucky : viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33778

I hope you can get it sorted out without spending too much - both the xenon bulbs and the control module/ballast are very expensive.

Phil
 

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RRPhil said:
Hi Malcolm,

Yes, in my case I was lucky and I haven't had a recurrence of the problem since. On the other hand Ace95, for example, wasn't so lucky : viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33778

I hope you can get it sorted out without spending too much - both the xenon bulbs and the control module/ballast are very expensive.

Phil

Phil,

It is still doing the same thing and since I have a document from the dealership indicating that they owe me the repairs until it is fixed and I'm satisfied, I'm temporarily taking a break from that problem.

Malcolm
 

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maverixz said:
Phil,
Did this solve the problem? I have the same problem and took it to the dealership (Cadillac) where I bought the car, I sent them the link to this thread and they bought the ballast then installed it but when I went to pick it up late last week it did the same thing (right side went out until a few turns of the switch) So they called up the only RR dealership with 50 miles of me, where the car was kept for 48hrs and they returned it to me this afternoon supposedly fixed but when I started it in their presence and tested the light, it did the same thing again.

I'm actually starting to feel bad for the folks at the Cadillac dealership where I bought the car because they are stumped.

Malcolm
Might just try switching the bulbs from right to left just to confirm that it's not the bulb itself.
 

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RRPhil said:
This (broken) rubber strap dropped on the floor when I removed the headlamp and I couldn't work out what on earth it was for - but now I know. Thanks sweetwater!

Phil

Phil,

Excellent write up. I Just replaced my drivers (UK) side glass this afternoon. Started in 28 degrees heat and then had to stop after a 'mini typhon' hit us - well it rained loads. All done now.

A little tip regarding that plastic wing nut that holds the indicator/light unit in place - I found that if I only inserted the unit just enough so that the thread was visable through the clip of the headlight unit that it made starting the wing nut on the thread a lot easier as I was able to get more of a angle on it. ....I dropped it three times before trying this and it was easier.

Hope that helps someone in the future.
 

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Actually, my headlamps are not so fixed in their position. If I gently press on the lower corner, the lamp moves slightly! And by sight, I can notice that there is a little space between the lamps and the body of the car...any suggestion? Do I have to remove the lamps and to set it back to the original position?
 

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Great post Thanks. Just replaced my drivers side light and indicator unit - bought both on ebay for £180. Only note re your description - I didn't need to remove the airbox. As long as you are right handed it is easy to put your arm down the side of the rad and under the big pipe to get access to the wing nut. I put gaffer tape on the bumper to protect it, and I agree with you - the worst part is getting the sliders in position when putting the new unit back in. Adrian - 04 322
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I don't quite understand this. Are all units Halogen main beam or can you convert to Bi Xenon?

Do they all have the adaptive control or was that an option?

Mine is a 2005 Vogue and I don't think I have the adaptive control.
 

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I don't quite understand this. Are all units Halogen main beam or can you convert to Bi Xenon?

Do they all have the adaptive control or was that an option?

Mine is a 2005 Vogue and I don't think I have the adaptive control.
The Bi-Xenon lights have a "helper" high beam halogen light. I too was stumped by this as no car I've ever owned with a proper Bi-Xenon operation has needed such a thing, but parked in front a store-front glass I could definitely see the solenoid operating AND the halogen main beam come on simultaneously. In the States, the 2003 to 2005 model was never offered with adaptive lighting. Moreover, the halogen only (i.e. a halogen reflector where the dipped beam xenon is situated in the above) models are virtually non-existent here. I have seen a grand total of 1 ever in a car dealer ad from Miami, and that truck was VERY suspect looking so it may have even been put back together with Ebay parts after an accident.

For those who have replaced the ballast AND the bulb (capsule) with no love, your problem could in-fact be the ignitor which, if I am not mistaken, is located within the lamp housing and is not individually replaceable.
 

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The igniter is inside the lamp housing. It is possible to get in there by taking the lamp housing apart by removing headlight and then removing the front glass in order to change the ignitor - and it is still a bit fiddly.

My problem started when a bulb failed. After replacing the bulb, the light would go out after anything between half a mile and 10 miles (it seemed to be better when damp). Changing the balast made no difference. Rather than change the ignitor, I got a 2nd hand light from e-Bay. At £50 it was cheaper than buying the ignitor separately, easier than taking the light apart (which I did with the old one to see how it worked), and now I've got a spare bulb, spare balast and spare headlight glass.
 

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It's also important to note that one or all of these components can also cause a significant degradation in light output as they age. My E38 had the FAR better combination Bosch ballast/ignitor unit which I replaced after my xenon light would not come on reliably, and when it did it was a pinkish hue with virtually ZERO light output. Replacing the ballast brought even the old bulb back to like new status, but I replaced it with some GE private label bulbs that were about 60.00 for the pair and it was a tremendous improvement in light output.

So it seems that the part IS individually replaceable but simply not available from LR as an orderable part number separately. For the life of me I can not figure out why they didnt just use the combination part in the LR headlights. There's more space in the Rover. On my E38 I didn't even bother removing the headlamp assembly. I literally just disconnected the harness off the existing ballast, mounted the new ballast in a safe location in the immediate vicinity of the headlamp, and plugged the new end into the xenon bulb. Then I snipped the bulb lead off the old ballast so it wouldn't just be hanging there in the engine compartment not connected to anything.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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For Low beams:
If they use reflectors (on the '02 L322), they will come as Halogens from the factory (not available in the U.S. The L322 only came out for '03.).
However, if they come with the projector lens (the glass ball), it'll come with the factory HID (High Intensity Discharge) lights which are also referred to as Xenon lights.

Bi-Xenon means that there is a motor in the headlight that moves the low beams up when the high beam switch is engaged to give you a further range of view.
That's why when you start your car sometimes, you can see the lights go down and up (low beams).

High Beams
The high beams will always use halogens because HIDs are not meant to be flashed (strain on the bulbs + ballasts).
An HID will last longer if you leave it on as opposed to flashing them on and off frequently.
Also, with HIDs, there is a warm up period (5-30 seconds) so trying to flash someone on the highway with HIDs will be highly ineffective.

Hope this helps!
 
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