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What I mean is, has anyone done enough remodeling on the P38 systems to get it to the level of reliabillity/fixability that you need in a vehicle used in the bush in the middle of nowhere?

This entails getting rid of all the electronics that can bog down the car, and the list would look like something of this nature:

- EAS to coils
- Install carb or swap engine (carb is cheaper and easier)
- Rewire and get rid of ECU/BECM, etc. (Full loom rewiring probably way to go)
- Strengthen falling/breaking bits

Any other idea or suggestion welcome.

The point is, here you can get a 1999-2000 P38 for half the price of a 1992 Cruiser, and I love the RR drive... But there is simply no way that you can take a stock P38 for bushwork. Which is one of the reasons behind the price difference!
 
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You have probably answered your own question Kano.. Once you take off all the parts that go wrong on a P38 ( and that give it its characteristic 'ride') you may as well use another vehicle entirely.

The P38 electronics are just far too 'sophisticated' to be trusted in 'the middle of no-where' (whereby 'sophisticated' = over-complicated and hence unreliable).
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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look at my build. i have removed a lot of the crap that can strand you and it has been very reliable. i've spent a lot of time 4 wheeling with my p38. i just did a 1800 mile round trip to Moab, ran some pretty difficult trails and made it back without a problem.
 

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i personally having lived in that area would relish the chance to prove it can hack it bone stock - which [well maintained/prepared] it probably would. Its almost certain that you/i/previous owners will be the reason for any "unreliability", that will let 'it' down rather than the other way around.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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i think the electronics have and always will be dodgy without any help from us. thats the way land rover designs electrics. ready to burn and not work at any time they like.
 
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