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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I purchased my 2000 registered 4.6 vogue with many faults a few months ago. One of which was a lack of radio code after a dead battery. I replaced the battery, reset the windows and sunroof (info found on this site) then applied for the radio code from my local dealer.
After several attempts to enter the code I realised I had an alpine unit and not a clarion! I then entered the code using the correct method and hey presto. It went in. Trouble is I only have sound through the subwoofer. None of the speakers are making a sound? The head unit seems to function ok and if I remove the brown plug from the rear of the radio all sound ceases. After reading several post on here I've figured and amp powers the speakers. Is it a seperate one for the sub? Someone has also pinched the cd changer prior to my ownership. Could this be causing the issue?

I've searched through all the HK sound system related topics but can't seem to find anyone with a problem the same as mine.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have been refitting my Harmon Kardon subwoofer in the back only this week.
It does have a built in amp. There are 5 wires into it - a twisted pair for the subwoofer signal, thicker red and black +/- 12v connections and a thinner black lead for on/off +12v.
The fact that it is working means the problem is with your head unit I think. I have got an aftermarket Alpine and in settings see if the internal IC is switched on. The CD player is a separate lead from the head unit to the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As far as I'm aware the head unit only gives out one left/right signal and that must be working as the sub works?
 

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Doesn't the Alpine have the DSP amp in boot, and Clarion uses Door Amps ?

Maybe somebody has mixed up the two systems ?

Pictures of what you have would help. . . . including the connectors behind the head unit.

Pete
 

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Hi,
Did you have SatNav there? I have similar issue when SatNav was dammaged - black screen issue (battery was unplugged when SatNav red light was still on). If you have similar issue, unplugging SatNav will help.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Doesn't the Alpine have the DSP amp in boot, and Clarion uses Door Amps ?

Maybe somebody has mixed up the two systems ?

Pictures of what you have would help. . . . including the connectors behind the head unit.

Pete
Not all of them - the '99MY versions had amps in the doors, and some of the later ones without navigation... though there is a part number for the DSP amp in the boot for vehicles without Navigation aswell.

Hi. No I don't have sat navigation. Just the alpine cassette/radio head unit
In that case you *might* have amps in the doors, or a DSP amplifier in the loadspace. If you can post a picture up of the brown plug, it will help identify which you have.

As far as I'm aware the head unit only gives out one left/right signal and that must be working as the sub works?
If you have a DSP amplifier, then yes - it just gets a left/right from the brown connector and then it does the processing and sends the signal out to the 4 doors. If you have amps in the doors, then the head unit sends out a signal to each door. The head unit is the same for DSP/Non DSP systems and I think it detects whether there is a DSP amp connected on power up and then decides how it needs to control the output.

If you have 8 wires in the brown connector, then you have amps in the doors (a +ve/-ve feed to each door) If there are 4 wires, (red + red/black and yellow + yellow/black from memory) then you have a DSP system, and it's entirely possible that the amplifier has failed - as the version with sat nav is known for failing randomly. Another check is that the small green connector has a Pink/Black wire in it on a DSP system (as it's the control line for the amplifier) and as far as I know, this wire isn't there on non-DSP systems.

In both Alpine systems (DSP and amps-in-doors) the subwoofer is fed out of the Orange + Orange/Black wires on the head unit which from memory are in the smaller yellow? connector towards the top of the head unit. In a non-DSP system the wires go straight to the subwoofer amplifier (black box on the outside of the box on some systems or mounted to the back of the speaker magnets on others). In DSP systems, the signal goes from the head unit, into the DSP amplifier where is is manipulated (boosted/attenuated depending on what the head unit is set to on the subwoofer/bass settings) and then sent back out to the subwoofer amplifier at low level. The DSP amp takes the signal in, but doesn't amplify it internally, but just spits it back out at a line level for the subwoofer amplifier.

I hope that helps identify what particular system you have.

Marty
 

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I've managed to pop out the stereo for id.
Well, from Marty's description you have a DSP amp in the boot, which are legendary for failing. I'm fairly sure the head connectors didn't come from the factory with black sticky tape wrapped around some of the cables so somebody's been tinkering as well.
Is there not a sticker on the top or bottom of the head unit with an AMR part number or similar?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I've managed to locate the amp and all connections are there so I can only assume that the amp is knackered. Its a XQK100340. There's a XQK100110 for sale at the moment that looks to be in the same casing. Will that do the job? I'm starting to get bored of no music lol.
 

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Well I've managed to locate the amp and all connections are there so I can only assume that the amp is knackered. Its a XQK100340. There's a XQK100110 for sale at the moment that looks to be in the same casing. Will that do the job? I'm starting to get bored of no music lol.
As far as I'm aware, yes it will work, yours is the sat nav unit, but if you don't have sat nav, should be good to go, mine when purchased, had the other way round, I had no sound from nav system, had the 110 amp, should of been the 340 amp,, maybe yours did have sat nav at some point ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's hard to tell but there's no obvious sign that the car ever had sat nav. It has the cubby hole and clock. I don't mind taking a chance on the amp if the money is right but I'm not paying near £500 for a set one hand unit that might last a month!
 

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I am looking into a post DSP amp solution to this, but not going to be able to look into it properly until I get home from work at the end of the month.

I'm basically looking at making a kit with fits a steel panel with standard P38 door amps on it, into the location where the DSP amp usually sits. Then with the addition of a couple of extra pairs of wires for the rear door feeds from the head unit, and a bit of soldering in the boot, and you should be able to get an easy-ish solution, but at what I would imagine to be about a third the cost of a 'hit and miss' DSP amp replacement.

I've got so many projects to be working on, but I'll try and bump this one up the list a bit since it seems to be a fairly common problem! And I am sure that a close to plug-and-play solution would make a lot of people's lives a bit easier (things are always better with music!)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Tbh I was thinking of making up a loom that would allow the fitment of a standard head unit hopefully utilising the original sub amp (however I am unsure of volume control).

I did consider attempting to replace the dsp amp with a standard car amp but as the original head unit doesn't control the volume by adjusting the voltage on the pre outs it wouldn't work unless a variable pre amp booster was wired in.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I'm looking at using the individual factory door amps in place of the DSP amp, which the head unit is capable of controlling as standard, as the same head unit part number is used on DSP and non DSP versions.

I've done a bench tested on it, and it works fine - it's just a case of making up a mounting plate, and wiring harness for it .

I changed mine totally when I was looking into the stereo system, as my DSP amp was missing when I bought it. I hadn't thought of retrofitting the door amps at the time, so went aftermarket and ran in extra wiring in for the rear doors, and made my own passive crossover to filter the audio signals to each door. The speakers are then driven directly from the aftermarket head unit's built in amplifier, which has been sufficient for what I've been wanting!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So there's no just x2 wires per door then? I assumed the crossovers would be in the doors?

What about fitting an amp from a BMW e46? I've read they can be modified to work?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Not on DSP systems, the amp splits out the low and high sides and sends them separately to each door.

The door amped systems only have 2 wires to each door, but they are a line level, full range signal sent to the amps.

I don't know if the e46 amp will work, but they used a similar system. From when I briefly looked into it, I think the BMW head unit actually sent all 4 channels to the DSP amp rather than the 2 that the range rover system does. I could be wrong though, as I have never actually tried it.

If you do give it a go, then interested to know now the results!
 
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