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Thanks for the write-up/pics - I just hardwired my V1! As MakeItSo said, there are two green/white wires, so make sure you go for the one that's not connected to the sunroof controls. Anyways, after talking to a Porsche fanatic and friend of mine, I mounted the V1 in a slightly different spot, below the rearview mirror so that it's more centrally located and can "see" more clearly out the rear window. Plus, I tested mounting it up high, and I don't like how the visor can hit it and knock it upward. If anyone is wondering, the wire is barely visible, as it's easy to tuck behind the mirror bracket. Here are two pics (sorry for the iPhone pics):


 

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Discussion Starter #22
I actually tried that position myself at first after reading some similar recommendations on other forums. Didn't like it for a couple of reasons: interference from the touchscreen (don't know if they were reflections off the monitor or the white hood of my car, but I was getting lots of false laser alerts there.) Also, it was a long stretch to reach the mute knob in case of false alerts, and if you have a V1 you're going to get plenty of those, trust me.

Finally, having it smack in the middle of the windshield made me so "obvious", both to a cop following me and to detector thieves, that in the end I decided for the higher and less conspicuous location to the left of the mirror. The eye of the V1 can still see through the rear window as far as I can tell.
 

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umbertob said:
Didn't like it for a couple of reasons: interference from the touchscreen (don't know if they were reflections off the monitor or the white hood of my car, but I was getting lots of false laser alerts there.) Also, it was a long stretch to reach the mute knob in case of false alerts, and if you have a V1 you're going to get plenty of those, trust me.

Finally, having it smack in the middle of the windshield made me so "obvious", both to a cop following me and to detector thieves, that in the end I decided for the higher and less conspicuous location to the left of the mirror. The eye of the V1 can still see through the rear window as far as I can tell.
The false alerts are a huge pain, so unless I'm on the interstate I keep the volume pretty low. As for interference, I'll keep y'all updated as to whether I get false laser alerts with it here. The spot is definitely more conspicuous, so I'll have to see how I feel about it in the next week or so (less worried about cops following than about theft). Also, how do you turn X-band off? I've literally never noticed an actual cop using X (and no cameras in my area so can't comment there).
 

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i have a 07 RRS and I do not have a green/white to the harness that feeds the light console. I have a red/blue, white/brown, brown, grey red, and red/yellow and only red/blue has power with the light on and using a power indicator on the brown/white actually flips the lights on and off.

where am I missing the green/white wire? (other than the one on the sunroof switch)..

thanks!
 

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I notice the detector is mounted to the left of the dark shaded area directly behind the rear view mirror. Is this done for a reason?

Does the detector not work if it is mounted directly behind the rear view mirror in the dark "tinted" area?

It seems like in the sample photos,the radar would be in the way of the sun visor?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Couple of reasons: The shaded / tinted area above the rear view mirror is a bit textured and not smooth like glass, so getting the suction cups of the detector mount to stick would be more challenging. You'd have to smoothen that textured surface with some layers of packaging tape or something similar to get the suction cups to stick securely. Also, the V1 specifically (this may not apply to other detectors) needs the rear firing radar/laser sensor to have a view of the rear of the car (through the rear window) as unobstructed as possible to spot bogeys approaching from behind with plenty of advance notice. With the detector mounted so high above the mirror, the view of that sensor would be partially obstructed by headliner and overhead console, decreasing its coverage and effectiveness.

The detector doesn't get in the way of the sun visor when mounted to the left of the tinted area, thanks to the slanted windshield of the Sport it sits quite a bit forward of the visor.
 

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Update: I've had no issues with the V1 mounted below the mirror and haven't gotten any false laser readings. I'm not sure if this has been posted anywhere, but, from here on out, RRS's won't come with voice control, meaning there's a blank button on the steering wheel. I'm thinking of turning it into a remote V1 mute button. I'm hoping the button is still powered, meaning I could have it etched with the V1 logo...
 

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Has anyone had experience hardwiring a radar detector into wiring under the dash on the driver's side or behind the center console with the ventilation controls?

The reason I ask is that I have a Passport 9500xi Directwire Connector with the mute button attached to the cable and it only has 3 feet of cable between the mute switch and the fuse connection to the electrical system / ground (and 8 feet of cable from the mute switch to the detector). So I need to wire it under the dash so I can mount the switch with velco under the steering wheel within reach while driving. I will then run the wire the detector and mount it under the mirror.

If you have done this before, please advise on which wires you connected the detector to (my connector is similar to the V1 and connects by puncturing the existing wire cover) and how to access that area in the SUV.

Any suugestions would be appreciated, thanks
 

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I don't see a green/white wire in the 09 RR HSE. Anymore info on what switched source was used, i.e. sun roof switch? or light console? something else. I found plenty of sources that are +12v while the truck is on, just looking for a short cut instead of waiting for them to time out to verify an ignition wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
You should ask on the MkIII forum instead as someone may have found a better power source, but there is a red / yellow striped wire in the dome light harness of the big Range that's switched 12v (although it will cut off juice to the detector several minutes after you turn off the ignition and lock the doors remotely, not instantly like in the Sport.)
 

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Even though this thread is pretty old, i just want to say thanks Umberto for your instructions. Following your instructions made the installation pretty easy. I just finished up wiring the 9500ix gamer edition and the only thing i had to do was to extend the hard wiring kit from Escort so that the power and ground cable reached the map lights from the smart wire module i installed underneath the drivers side dash. 6 ft of 20 gauge speaker wire did the trick. Only thing i noticed was that my radar detector never turns off if i don't lock the car which is weird since that means that green/white wire on my car stays hot unless i lock the doors. I waited about 10 minutes to see if it turns off but never did. I don't know if anybody else is experiencing the same issue. I would also love to mount the radar to the mirror but my search came up with nothing on mounting brackets that fits specifically the Range Rover Sport mirrors. Even the blendmount ones didn't seem like it would fit by the mirror stem. Other than that everything looks good. Best part about the detector is it actually matches the interior green. Here are some pics of the install if you guys are interested.



 

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I have a 2010 RRSC and cant get the light cluster down. I took out the 2 bolts under the sunglasses holder and it still doesnt want to come down. Are there any other bolts? I dont want to force it and break it
 

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I have a 2010 RRSC and cant get the light cluster down. I took out the 2 bolts under the sunglasses holder and it still doesnt want to come down. Are there any other bolts? I dont want to force it and break it
I did this and i don’t remember taking bolts out to remove the Internal light cluster -- I think its a snap in fit -- After the cluster is removed I undid A bolt to use as an earth only
 

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I hardwired my escort in my 2008 RRS. The Blendmount DID work just fine, but the little cable you plug into the escort has to be routed through the rear-view mirror cover (the huge black plastic piece behind the rear view mirror). It pops off, then you have to carefully drill a hole in the two halves of the plastic so the hole is in the center of the two halves. Then the wire goes right up BEHIND the rear view mirror and disappears into the black plastic rear view mirror cover (where it then goes up into the headliner, but completely hidden as it goes up into the headliner from within the black plastic cover.
 

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Just did this last night and the pics speaks thousands. Very helpful and now it works. V1 close to roof. Thanks umbertob!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I'd like to use this tutorial to hardwire a dashcam as the instructions seem to be pretty straight forward for a novice like myself to follow. The blue clips used to join the wires together would be ideal for me to use.....Does anyone know what these clips are called or where I could get them online? I am guessing they come with the radar detection unit that you guys have been installing, but I am hoping someone might be able to point me to where i might grab some for my dashcam instal. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The dash cam will work just fine in lieu of - or in addition to - the radar detector, I have my front one wired the same way to the overhead console lights and it works very well, unless you want your dash can to continue recording while parked: Just like the radar detector, a dash camera will stop recording and shut off when you turn off the ignition and lock your doors with the remote. T-tap connectors are easy to find at many auto parts stores, or online. Example: http://www.wiringproducts.com/quick-slide-connectors#prettyPhoto. For the very thin wiring above our overhead console that you are going to tap into, you may actually want to use a connector for thinner (22-18 AWG) wire than the blue one supplied by Valentine with its detector kit, which is ideal for for slightly heavier gauge, 16-14 AWG wire.
 
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