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I am so sorry about your truck. I have a 2004 RR HSE and had to replace my transmission two years ago at 140k miles. The dealer quoted 12+K for a new transmission + labor and told me my car was totaled. I contacted an independent just outside of Chicago and they put in a rebuilt transmission with a 1 year warranty, installed for 5.5k. I have the BMW 5 speed automatic transmission. You may have an 8 speed transmission. Please let me know if you would like the name of the shop I used;they are very reasonable with pricing. Good luck!
 

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If the transmission is quiet when the engine is started and the gear selector is in park, and then starts grinding when you put it in drive or reverse I would look at eh CV joints/transfer case as the culprits. If the transmission makes a whiring/clicking noise that slows down after you put back into park, thats a sign that the transmission output shaft are still spinning, and the parking pawl is trying to extend. The parking pawl is just a pin that goes into a notch on the output shaft of the transmission to hold the truck in one place. Thats a definate sign your issue is somewhere after the transmission, either the transfer case is stuck in neutral, which should have an error message displayed on the dash, and maybe a flashing mountain looking light on the bottom right side of the dash. After that is could be any or the numerous CV joints, there are three on the rear driveshaft, 2 on the front and two on each wheel axle shaft. Anyone of those could have come apart, or one of the shafts could have backed out of the axle housings. Not common but it does happen. There was also some kind of a recall on the front driveshaft joint at the front differential. don't know if that extended all the way up to the 2012s or not though.
 

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If you have access to a lift. There is always the option of buying a transmission from a wrecked vehicle, and installing it yourself. If you can't do it an independent transmission shop could install a salvage transmission, and they often offer a warranty.

I have done this on several cars, but not a Range Rover.

Hopefully it's something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Can a transfer box be stuck between H/L

2012 RR L322 Supercharged this is a follow-up to my post yesterday...quoted here..."What happened is - I stepped on gas to accelerate - it responded as if it were in neutral and the engine revved but did not go forward - if I put in D or R it makes grinding noise - no movement, cannot D or R. No codes before no issues before it just happened." This thread today is to ask...it seems the transfer case / motor? Is stuck between gears. Can that happen? How do I further diagnosis / determine? Thank you for your suggestions and information.
 

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Re: Can a transfer box be stuck between H/L

You should keep everything together in the same thread, easier to follow when these two different threads get separated. But saying that, yes they can get stuck in neutral, but unless you were trying to shift between high and low ratios when this happened it wouldn't be trying to change gears and should not get stuck. It shouldn't happen out of the blue while your driving along, and you can't shift from high to low (or low to high) unless the transmission is in neutral. If you can turn either driveshaft by hand, with the transmission in park then either the transfer case is in neutral or your front CV joint on the rear driveshaft (or rear CV on the front driveshaft) has failed. Any failed CV joint will allow all of the engine power to go to the broken CV joint axle or driveshaft and the truck won't go anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
CV joints, etc. all good. Sounded like noise was coming from transfer case so I took it apart everything seems okay. Transmission? If I take off the pan and look for metal and don't find metal fragments can I rule out transmission?
 

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With all 4 wheels hanging (not on the ground) on a frame lift or jack stands none of the wheels or driveshafts can be rotated with the trans in park? Gear indicator on the instrument cluster matches the position the shift lever is in on the console, P=P, R=R, N=N, etc. thru all the gears? Can you cycle the transfer case from low to high and back again from the switch on the console? Do you know if the truck was towed anywhere just before you picked it up? Check to see if there is a fuse in position 37 in the glove box fuse panel (there shouldn't be one - thats the one that forces the transfer case into neutral for towing). Did you get anykind of code reader on it to see if it has any DTC codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Mark hey thx for info. The shift matches console. Other questions I'll have to double-check after work. This morning I was looking at transfer case b4 work and the noise is in the case. Verified with another mechanic that the tranny is trying to shift don't think it's tranny hopefully. So me and another mech took the clutch assemblies out of case and opened up the planetary gear assembly. On the schematic it shows that as one unit but it only had few bolts so I figured I'd take it apart. Inside one of the (rods? there are 3) one was down others were up. And two little ball bearings fell out. One of the mechanics (here at my work, they've all been helping after work to try and fix it.) Anyway he asked me to put it out here on the forum to see if anyone can tell us how far apart the clutch assemblies need to be spaced? How much play? Thank u Mark and everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Mystery solved. Bad news. The output shaft on tranny and input shaft on transfer case are stripped. I need a new transfer case and tranny. Just really crappy news. Haven't even made the first payment on the Rover yet. Really bummed.
 

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Might be cheaper to by a salvaged RR and take the trans and t/c from it and part out the rest. Probably should be exact same year to keep the computers from freaking out though.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Gadzooks yeah I was thinking about the possible computer issues. I also thought about even selling parts that are still good of the stuff I need to replace cuz it might help someone who needs to find a used part but I would have no idea how to get that stuff out on web or whatever where anyone who needs it could buy it. Craigslist doesn't cut it for that. LOL
 

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This JUST happened to us 3 weeks ago. Transfer case is "bald" inside and the output shaft is damaged. Used transfer case and transmission installed by local independant shop. Now it will not go into gear. Does anyone know if the newer transmission has to be programmed to work?

Thanks in advance!
 

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What year? Typically yes they do, the Mechatronics unit (the electronics part on the valve body inside the pan) is matched to your VIN. You can use your old one in the new transmission to avoid this kind of problem. I don't know if you can program a new VIN onto one already containing a different VIN.
 

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My 2012 may have had the same problem, but I'm waiting the dealership's prognosis. It does sound like the same symptoms though.
I was pulling out of one parking lot at work with no problems. Came to a stop where the parking lot goes to a roadway. As I began to pull into the roadway, the engine rev'd freely and I was able to coast to a safe place about 40 feet away.
After stopping I shut it off, with no dashboard fault indications at this point.
I then started it up, and when I put it in gear, I just get the ratcheting sound in reverse, and a slightly different ratcheting sound in drive, but no movement.
When I put it back in park, I can hear it slowly ratchet against the parking pawl until it what ever is ratcheting slowly comes to a stop.
It sounds like something's broken in there to me, but I'll see what the dealership says.
The service advisor took a listen to it when I got it to them, and said it sounded familiar to him, like when there's a parking brake failure. Not the case here though, since it rolls freely in neutral (and maybe when in gear too?).
But they'll be able to look at it in more detail on Monday.

How can a transmission break like arrukiddenme (and maybe me) experienced?
In my case, no aggressive acceleration at all, no rough terrain, nothing other than low speed, calm driving in my case, and just driving on the highway in arrukiddenmes case.
Why would his trans output and transfer case input shaft strip out? Has anyone else heard of this happening?

Granted, I've only had this for almost 3 months, but it's otherwise in good shape and well taken care of.
 

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Mystery solved. Bad news. The output shaft on tranny and input shaft on transfer case are stripped. I need a new transfer case and tranny. Just really crappy news. Haven't even made the first payment on the Rover yet. Really bummed.
Sorry to hear that!
May I ask where did you purchase the vehicle and did you check the Carfax, service records and get an inspection?
 

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As it turns out, it looks like the same thing is what happened to mine.

Not real happy with LR if a 2012 can have something so basic fail under normal or even light use.

Please, anyone that experiences this, report it to the Department of Transportation. It is a safety issue to suddenly lose propulsion in traffic.

Report it or any other potential safety-related failure to the NHTSA here:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
 
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