I see nothing in the owners manual about a TC fuse for neutral. Make sure the flatbed ONLY tows you forward. Leave the transmission in neutral, ignition on and smart key in the console. Yes... it will have to go backwards when being removed from the flat bed but that will fairly stress free on the drivetrain. Once on the flat you can shut down the ignition enter park and take the key out.
... just in case you don;t have your owners manual with you. :mrgreen:
Sorry I was a bit frantic when I posted. I'm on a busy road and JUST bought it 2012 RR Supercharged L322. Flatbed tow trailer has been called gonna load it now. Definitely a tranny sound where do I start in diagnosis to fix?
I'm having a friend's local heavy equipment company tow it to their shop so I can put it up on hoist. I can't afford to hand it over to someone else until I rule out every possible thing I may be able to fix. I really need to try to fix this myself if possible. I'm a mechanic and welder etc. but transmissions on Range Rovers I know nothing about.
It just got there. It can stay there overnight but not long term. They work on forklifts not vehicles. I've been reading about what the heck I need to do now and I'm afraid the transmission is done for. Rebuild needed? I don't know how to figure it out? I absolutely cannot afford to take it to the dealer and I haven't even made my first payment on it. I'm sick to my stomach. I read that tranny rebuilds could cost $25,000 in which case I'll be paying on a car I will Never be able to drive. I'm physically sick
What happened is - I stepped on gas to accelerate - it responded as if it were in neutral and the engine revved but did not go forward - if I put in D or R it makes grinding noise - no movement, cannot D or R. No codes before no issues before it just happened how do I diagnosis? Is this a tell tale situation of a specific part I need to check or replace? Or is my tranny shot? It's my wife's new "used" car and she's in tears absolute tears cuz she wanted it and I was apprehensive due to reliability so now she's blaming herself for this huge financial situation... Thank you for any and all help
Check all the CV joints in the driveshaft(s). Sound like one may have just come apart. If its a bad CV on any driveshaft, or axle the truck isn't going anywhere. Without codes I wouldn't think it was a transfer case issue, or transmission issue, assuming your using a decent code reader as most of them won't read many codes outside of the engine and emission codes.
The transmission was flawless before this? no hesitations or odd shifts? Perhaps your shift cable came loose. 2012 still has the lever shifter, not the pop up dial right?
Have you checked all the fluids yet?
Should still have the shifter, think 2014 was the first year of the rotary shifter in the RR's. You're going to have to get a code reader on the truck, even a generic one to see if there is anything there, then inspect the CV joints, check your fluid levels, etc. Does it grind if you start it in park and don't shift it into any gear? Does it only start grinding after you put it in either drive or Reverse (if so shut the engine off before putting it back in park or you may break the parking pawl off inside the transmission if its still spinning)? Can you spin any of the wheels while the car is on the lift in park?
Yup shifter not dial. We have storms rolling through tonight so I left it on the flatbed (indoors) for tonight. I have to give the guys their flatbed back so I'm going to take it off tomorrow morning. Won't be able to look at it until after work. I'll check fluids.
Mark - it only grinds when put into D or R. I hope I didn't break the pawl cuz I had my wife shift to D then to P when I was under it (on the road where it stopped) so I could listen. Crap really hope I didn't break that. Not sure if I can spin the tires I'll try tomorrow after work. If I can what does that mean? If I can't what does that mean?