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Discussion Starter #1
Had to get my car towed today. Got smashed on the fwy by a clown on his phone :oops:

Red airbag light came on. Tried to erase things with my VAG tool but am afraid it's not capable. Does anyone know if there is another way to delete this code? Afraid I may have to tow again to the dealer ugh.

This is the tool I have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQOKA4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On another note can you guys recommend some good sites for used or new rear end parts. Dug around on Ebay,CL, and roverparts but didn't find what I need (giverny green). Looks like I'll need a new rear hatch,lower tailgate,bumper,and rear tail light lens.
 

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Had to get my car towed today. Got smashed on the fwy by a clown on his phone :oops:

Red airbag light came on. Tried to erase things with my VAG tool but am afraid it's not capable. Does anyone know if there is another way to delete this code? Afraid I may have to tow again to the dealer ugh.

This is the tool I have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQOKA4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On another note can you guys recommend some good sites for used or new rear end parts. Dug around on Ebay,CL, and roverparts but didn't find what I need (giverny green). Looks like I'll need a new rear hatch,lower tailgate,bumper,and rear tail light lens.
Did the guy behind you not have insurance or something?
 

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Did the airbags deploy (normally they only deploy on front or side impacts)? If so then the bags that deployed need to be replaced as a minimum. Does it crank? Theres an explosive squib that severs the battery cable in the case of a front side or REAR accident that exceeds the SRS limits, It severs the big battery cable going to the starter and power to the ECM to kill the fuel pump and obviously you can't crank the engine to start it, this device needs to be replaced just to get power back to the truck, and you will probably have to replace the SRS ECU, it contains a non volatile memory chip (can't erase it) which contains the info about what bags deployed, speeds and other such crash info. It's not resetable.
 

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Hope you're OK from the wreck and that the person who rear-ended you has insurance (and that you can confirm that with their insurer). Did the Police attend and is there an accident report? If so, make sure you get a copy, especially if there's a chance the other driver may be cited. This is going to get expensive (for somebody).

Does the car crank but not start? Does it crank at all? More info needed.

The airbag [diagnostic] module also controls the signal to the fuel pump.

From the very limited info you've provided, IF you need a new airbag module don't be tempted to purchase a "good/used" item as it cannot be re-coded/re-written to your car's VIN. New, they are available in the $550-$900 range, depending on vendor. Make sure you include that expense in your repair estimate plus shop time to code.

FWIW, when the yellow airbag light illuminates, the system is telling you that there is a sensor or trigger that's not meeting the diagnostic circuit's correct volt or ohm parameters. These "yellow" issues can usually be traced and remedied and the yellow light, once the diagnostic circuit's happy with the responses it receives from the various components, will extinguish. A red light is a recorded event which cannot be erased (over-written) as far as I'm aware even with dealer equipment.

The airbag [diagnostic] module is unique to your vehicle's VIN once it's coded to your car. A dealer level diagnostic is required to code the new module, which is located directly under the gear shift.

Hope the person who hit you has decent insurance - they'll need it.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did the airbags deploy (normally they only deploy on front or side impacts)? If so then the bags that deployed need to be replaced as a minimum. Does it crank? Theres an explosive squib that severs the battery cable in the case of a front side or REAR accident that exceeds the SRS limits, It severs the big battery cable going to the starter and power to the ECM to kill the fuel pump and obviously you can't crank the engine to start it, this device needs to be replaced just to get power back to the truck, and you will probably have to replace the SRS ECU, it contains a non volatile memory chip (can't erase it) which contains the info about what bags deployed, speeds and other such crash info. It's not resetable.
Thanks for the replies guys.. me and my lady are pretty banged up. Neither my lady or me slept well at all last night and have neck,shoulder blade and lower back pain. Tried getting into two different hospitals today 2-3 hour wait at both ugh. Will be chewing pain killers I think for some time. Saving grace here is my 5 yo is still bouncing off the walls and seems to be ok.

Luckily he has insurance. He had a '14 Ford suv that got totaled. I'm real surprised at how well the L322 held up compared to his car. I bought this car to be a strong all weather family car, glad I made the choice.
20190310_173328_resized.jpg
Screenshot_20190311-152202_resized.jpg



No the airbags did not deploy thank god.

It won't crank all I get is dash lights and the red airbag light. Two dealers told me they cannot erase the air bag light because of liability and said it needs to be handled by the collision repair place I choose. This falls inline with what you're saying about the explosive squib. Thanks for the piece of mind.

An adjuster is coming out in the next few days. I'm thinking the damage is going to go over the 75% of my blue book value $8-10k. Luckily my insurance agency said in the event that I keep it and it's been totaled I can keep my same policy, they just have to document all the damage. That's a huge relief.. as I love this car and it has fairly low mileage still (93k).

I pulled the following codes today. Some may have been existing but it's hard to tell.

U0248 Lost communication with remote driver utility module
C1130 Air spring air supply
B1101 Comfort Relay
B1b01 Key transponder
U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster
C1A62 Rear right wheel module
0x3004 Air quality sensor line- line interuption
P0562 System voltage low
u0073 Control Module Communication bus off
U0126 Lost communication with steering angle sensor




Hope you're OK from the wreck and that the person who rear-ended you has insurance (and that you can confirm that with their insurer). Did the Police attend and is there an accident report? If so, make sure you get a copy, especially if there's a chance the other driver may be cited. This is going to get expensive (for somebody).

Does the car crank but not start? Does it crank at all? More info needed.

The airbag [diagnostic] module also controls the signal to the fuel pump.

From the very limited info you've provided, IF you need a new airbag module don't be tempted to purchase a "good/used" item as it cannot be re-coded/re-written to your car's VIN. New, they are available in the $550-$900 range, depending on vendor. Make sure you include that expense in your repair estimate plus shop time to code.

FWIW, when the yellow airbag light illuminates, the system is telling you that there is a sensor or trigger that's not meeting the diagnostic circuit's correct volt or ohm parameters. These "yellow" issues can usually be traced and remedied and the yellow light, once the diagnostic circuit's happy with the responses it receives from the various components, will extinguish. A red light is a recorded event which cannot be erased (over-written) as far as I'm aware even with dealer equipment.

The airbag [diagnostic] module is unique to your vehicle's VIN once it's coded to your car. A dealer level diagnostic is required to code the new module, which is located directly under the gear shift.

Hope the person who hit you has decent insurance - they'll need it.

Rob
Thanks for the heads up. The police did come along with paramedics. The state trooper said she's gonna have to finish the report and it'd be available in 5 days or so.

If you guys have any leads on parts outside of what I mentioned I'd appreciate it.
 

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I'm confused why you need leads on parts... Just have it towed to the dealer and let the insurance work out the bill. This shouldn't be your burden to bare. Tho, ideally the car is just totaled (I'm sure it will be given it's age) and you can just get something that hasn't been previously stuffed. As for parts there was a guy in another thread contemplating parting out his range, maybe drop him a line? I'm going to assume you own the car, so can do whatever with the insurance money, but if you have any sort of loan on it the bank/insurance isn't going to allow you 1.) disperse the funds 2.) allow you to fix your own car. If it is totaled and for whatever reason you still want the car, you can buy it back for likely next to nothing then repair it. I'd keep my fingers crossed it's totaled though, you'll get a nice check and again given the age of that car can probably buy something newer no out of pocket... Also if you're not happy with the figures they give you, you can argue your price. Maybe you just had a bunch of work done? New tires? etc as leverage to reap a bit more payout from the insurance company. An aside, since you're injured I'd also suggest having a lawyer take over ASAP and take a hands off approach to the whole ordeal. Glad to hear you guys are okay!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think we're thinking along the same lines is why I asked about parts. I can't see this being below a 6-7k job.

I still owe 2k or so on the note and wanted to keep it open to keep building credit up.

If I find the parts I have the ability to do my own painting so that will open up different avenues for used parts.

I may hire a lawyer still but wanted to get checked out health wise and get some piece of mind around the car.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Thats quite a statement as to how well these trucks are built, obviously there may be some hidden damage beyond the dent in the rear door and scrapped up bumper, but they didn't even break one of your backup lights, while pushing the front end of the ford back about a foot. Most of the codes you mentioned above are pretty normal for an 06, the air quality one and drivers remote utility one (don't even think an 06 has this feature) are present in mine all the time. The loss of comm ones may be because the squib went off and killed power to some of the modules. the air spring supply and Rear wheel module might be related to the accident, but I don't think there is anything there to really be concerned with. Even if the insurance Co totals it (because the parts are going to be so expensive going thru a body shop) I would give serious consideration to buying it back as long as there isn't anything bent, its cheap to do and it doesn't get a salvage title. The dent in the tailgate could probably be mostly pushed out just by going thru the inside cover. Probably wouldn't get it all out unless you've done something like that as there looks like there's going to be a crease below the license plate indent.

You can bypass the squib by jumping from the battery positive post to the jump start post on the front of the firewall under the plastic cover (not the negative one on the top of the shock tower) to get power back to the starter, alternator and the rest of the computers that are shutdown now.

For parts on Ebay I use these guys called EuroChopshop, they seem to be some kind of high end wrecking service, and usually have alot of suspension, interior, and exterior parts for relatively cheap money, you may be able to contact them and ask if they have tailgates or bumpers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right? It's hard to believe. I will say it felt like he pushed us up a foot or so in the air and and 3' over to the right when he hit us. Pretty **** violent. Both my lady and I saw it coming so I think we tensed up quite a bit.

Thanks for the input on the codes.

With regards to buying the car back I thought if insurance totaled the car it would end up being a salvaged title?

Bypassing the squib would that be a matter of just using jumper cables to start the car?

Thanks for all your help. I'll put a word into the chop shop.
 

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If you never turn the truck and title over to the insurance company you don't get a salvage title, just have them deduct the buyback value off the payout and never let them have the title, and it won't be tagged as salvage. If the bank has it just pay them off from the remaining money and have them send you the title directly. If the insurance company pays them and gets the title it will get flagged as salvage.

Yes, just use a jumper cable temporarily to see if it starts and runs. Don't do it until the insurance guys are done looking at it though.
 

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I think we're thinking along the same lines is why I asked about parts. I can't see this being below a 6-7k job.

I still owe 2k or so on the note and wanted to keep it open to keep building credit up.

If I find the parts I have the ability to do my own painting so that will open up different avenues for used parts.

I may hire a lawyer still but wanted to get checked out health wise and get some piece of mind around the car.

Thanks for the help!
I'd def make a few calls to local ambulance chaser lawyers asap... The person who hit you, their insurance company is going to have lawyers working on chiseling the payout down, ideally you lvl the playing field with that given you/your wife sustained injury, possibly lost sleep/work/diminished way of life for the time being. I'd let their insurance pay off the vehicle, your bank will cut you a check for the remainder and you can buy a new car. Also since the bank still owns part of the car, it is highly unlikely they'll let you do the work on it yourself. They're going to want to make sure it is put back together the way it was. You most likely won't see the insurance money as it'll be a monitored claim handled by your insurance company. As in the person who hit you, their insurance will call your insurance to see if there is a loan on the car... since there is a loan on the car they'll disperse the money for repairs then cut you a check for whatever is left over. Or you can trying paying off the vehicle, getting the title, but the timeline may have you sitting around quite a while. I'd just turn the truck over and buy something else, you'll be investing quite a bit of time into this otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you never turn the truck and title over to the insurance company you don't get a salvage title, just have them deduct the buyback value off the payout and never let them have the title, and it won't be tagged as salvage. If the bank has it just pay them off from the remaining money and have them send you the title directly. If the insurance company pays them and gets the title it will get flagged as salvage.

Yes, just use a jumper cable temporarily to see if it starts and runs. Don't do it until the insurance guys are done looking at it though.
Looks like I owe $1800 I could pay it off now to make things less complicated, but I've got a funny feeling about paying off something at this stage haha
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'd def make a few calls to local ambulance chaser lawyers asap... The person who hit you, their insurance company is going to have lawyers working on chiseling the payout down, ideally you lvl the playing field with that given you/your wife sustained injury, possibly lost sleep/work/diminished way of life for the time being. I'd let their insurance pay off the vehicle, your bank will cut you a check for the remainder and you can buy a new car. Also since the bank still owns part of the car, it is highly unlikely they'll let you do the work on it yourself. They're going to want to make sure it is put back together the way it was. You most likely won't see the insurance money as it'll be a monitored claim handled by your insurance company. As in the person who hit you, their insurance will call your insurance to see if there is a loan on the car... since there is a loan on the car they'll disperse the money for repairs then cut you a check for whatever is left over. Or you can trying paying off the vehicle, getting the title, but the timeline may have you sitting around quite a while. I'd just turn the truck over and buy something else, you'll be investing quite a bit of time into this otherwise.
I agree I compiled a list of local lawyers that are familiar with this stretch of fwy. Always accidents in this area of the fwy it seems.

Problem with giving up this rover is I must have driven and looked at 15 L322's over the course of 6 months and found this gem. Low mileage, deep service records, new air shocks, and very clean interior and exterior. I'd really like to keep it after a few searches in the last few nights I've not found much in the same range.

Is it worth asking my claims dept on my insurance side for advice with regards to keeping this title clean and maybe buying it out? Or would that work against me. Forgive me I'm not experienced in the least bit with car accidents.
 

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Before you go any further you must investigate your state's insurance claim thresholds and their impact (sorry for the pun) on the viability of any continued ownership of this currently damaged vehicle.

Each state sets thresholds for whether a vehicle is declared a total loss or not. Many states have that level set at 75% of the book value, some are up at 80%. Such vehicles are usually sold with a title listed as "Salvage", often with a second comment listing the reason for the salvage (water damage, front end collision, rear end collision, vandalism etc).

The next important issue is that some states have a second threshold which results in a VIN being issued with a "Certificate of Destruction". Some states use a slightly different wording but it has the same effect. I highly doubt your vehicle meets that threshold but just be aware of the possibility.

It's critical to understand the difference between the two before owning or investing time and money, and what your realistic expectation is for the pile of parts that currently look like a car.

A vehicle initially issued a salvage title may be repaired and, once the state accepts the submitted paperwork, it will be issued a rebuilt title. That paper trail will follow the car for the rest of its life and will forever lower the value of the vehicle. There is a national database which, once the VIN is entered, tracks all salvage/certificate of destruction VINS. No exceptions, no title-washing (a good thing for the consumer imho).

A vehicle issued a "Certificate of Destruction" can never be re-registered/titled for road use again. It is basically just a parts car.

If one's looking for a parts car that's fine (so long as one's not using the body or cab with the CoD VIN). But if one buys a CoD VIN'd vehicle, repair it then try to title it as rebuilt (or any other title) they're going to be one upset hombre.

So, accepting that you have an emotional tie to this vehicle (and that the repair doesn't seem too bad on the surface) investing your time and energy in completely understanding your options regarding clean/rebuilt titles would be the best next step, imo.

Cheers, Rob
 

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The very same thing happened to me on I4 in Florida a few years ago. I was driving my then P38 and stopped for traffic in the fast lane. About 30 seconds later a guy in a mini-van (texting) bounced off the back of my P38. Barely any damage at all to the P38, the bumper took most of it but the mini-van was a write-off.
 

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...
Luckily he has insurance. He had a '14 Ford suv that got totaled. I'm real surprised at how well the L322 held up compared to his car. I bought this car to be a strong all weather family car, glad I made the choice.
...
No kidding. Those 2 photos speak volumes. I'm actually surprised the rear end took the hit so well, too. Looking at the big Rover's rear end, I wouldn't have ever guessed another car smashed right into it the way it did.
 

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I agree I compiled a list of local lawyers that are familiar with this stretch of fwy. Always accidents in this area of the fwy it seems.

Problem with giving up this rover is I must have driven and looked at 15 L322's over the course of 6 months and found this gem. Low mileage, deep service records, new air shocks, and very clean interior and exterior. I'd really like to keep it after a few searches in the last few nights I've not found much in the same range.

Is it worth asking my claims dept on my insurance side for advice with regards to keeping this title clean and maybe buying it out? Or would that work against me. Forgive me I'm not experienced in the least bit with car accidents.
I'd seriously just hire a lawyer... you can tell him/her the trouble you went through looking for this car and he'll/she'll use that as fodder to bolster the claim payout. I'd honestly just forget about keeping the car, you have zero idea how deep the damage runs, if they decide to total it out that'd be ideal for you. If you go through all the trouble of buying the car out, then buying it back only later to find it isn't legally road worthy that'd be a worse situation for you. If you hire a decent lawyer it'll most likely be nothing out of pocket and you'll be totally hands off. A check will just show up to cover your medial/time/vehicle vs your doing all the leg work and possibly putting yourself into an even worse situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Before you go any further you must investigate your state's insurance claim thresholds and their impact (sorry for the pun) on the viability of any continued ownership of this currently damaged vehicle.

Each state sets thresholds for whether a vehicle is declared a total loss or not. Many states have that level set at 75% of the book value, some are up at 80%. Such vehicles are usually sold with a title listed as "Salvage", often with a second comment listing the reason for the salvage (water damage, front end collision, rear end collision, vandalism etc).

The next important issue is that some states have a second threshold which results in a VIN being issued with a "Certificate of Destruction". Some states use a slightly different wording but it has the same effect. I highly doubt your vehicle meets that threshold but just be aware of the possibility.

It's critical to understand the difference between the two before owning or investing time and money, and what your realistic expectation is for the pile of parts that currently look like a car.

A vehicle initially issued a salvage title may be repaired and, once the state accepts the submitted paperwork, it will be issued a rebuilt title. That paper trail will follow the car for the rest of its life and will forever lower the value of the vehicle. There is a national database which, once the VIN is entered, tracks all salvage/certificate of destruction VINS. No exceptions, no title-washing (a good thing for the consumer imho).

A vehicle issued a "Certificate of Destruction" can never be re-registered/titled for road use again. It is basically just a parts car.

If one's looking for a parts car that's fine (so long as one's not using the body or cab with the CoD VIN). But if one buys a CoD VIN'd vehicle, repair it then try to title it as rebuilt (or any other title) they're going to be one upset hombre.

So, accepting that you have an emotional tie to this vehicle (and that the repair doesn't seem too bad on the surface) investing your time and energy in completely understanding your options regarding clean/rebuilt titles would be the best next step, imo.

Cheers, Rob
Really appreciate you clarifying the two scenarios. Thanks.

The State Farm accessor came out today and he actually used to be a Rover service manager ironically. He said just on the surface things added up to well over the "75%" threshold for a salvaged title in Washington. He was guesstimating around $8-10k for repair work depending on if he can find a used part from one of their limited salvage yards that guarentee's their parts. A second outside party needs to review his estimate but the ball is rolling and I should hear something in the next 24-48 hours as to getting an offer.

I did call my local State Farm agent again to clarify my situation and retaining my policy with a salvaged title and things are getting a little foggy now with possibly and maybe in the equation ugh. Waiting for a manager to call me back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No kidding. Those 2 photos speak volumes. I'm actually surprised the rear end took the hit so well, too. Looking at the big Rover's rear end, I wouldn't have ever guessed another car smashed right into it the way it did.
I think things may have been different if the tow package wasn't there. The accessor said he hit that and it got bent as a result. I'll need a new one to tow my boat now unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'd seriously just hire a lawyer... you can tell him/her the trouble you went through looking for this car and he'll/she'll use that as fodder to bolster the claim payout. I'd honestly just forget about keeping the car, you have zero idea how deep the damage runs, if they decide to total it out that'd be ideal for you. If you go through all the trouble of buying the car out, then buying it back only later to find it isn't legally road worthy that'd be a worse situation for you. If you hire a decent lawyer it'll most likely be nothing out of pocket and you'll be totally hands off. A check will just show up to cover your medial/time/vehicle vs your doing all the leg work and possibly putting yourself into an even worse situation.
You raise some good points but in searching for other l322's I cannot find anything close to mind for around this price. Having these service records was huge for me.

I am leaving to meet with a local lawyer here today. They're asking for 33%. Seems about the going rate.

The doc visit today was fairly uneventful. We're both in pain and around a 7-8 out of 10. All they prescribed was muscle relaxers and ibuprofen. Slept about 4 hours total the last two nights ugh.. hopefully things get better.
 
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