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Still rebuilding my original grey import Texas 1984 Range Rover V8. Making good progress currently working on rebuilding the sagging headliner (and equally sagging headliner board). Getting close to having her on the road.

I upgraded the original dual carbs to a Holley 390 CFM carb. It works well but car stalls when cold and placed in reverse and the idle is a little too fluctuating (have not even repaired the AC yet). Also I am concerned about vapour lock in the Texas heat. I had a Series Land Rover with a carb a few years ago and had all sorts of starting issues in the heat. So before I spend too much time faffing around with the carb I pulled the trigger on a Holley Sniper EFI self-tuning throttle body injection system ($1250).

Will report back how it works out. Installation looks dead simple, I am currently not yet planning to extend the installation to include timing which is possible, but requires some modification to the distributor. One step at the time.
 

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on defender forum there is a guy by the name of Kent, his user is 85red110. he has installed one of this efi systems on one of his trucks. he may be a good source of info as he performed the install himself.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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on defender forum there is a guy by the name of Kent, his user is 85red110. he has installed one of this efi systems on one of his trucks. he may be a good source of info as he performed the install himself.
Yeah, Kent’s really happy w/ his setup over the 14cux he tried before.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Ok well so far I have not been able to purchase a system yet. I placed an order at the Holley site, but my card never got charged and now it seems they don't have them is stock. Should have gone to Amazon...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IMG_2841_Canon EOS 5D Mark II_0_45mm_5.0_15s_resize.JPG

Well it is fitted and works beautifully. It is absolutely amazing! Transformed the car with easy start (cold or hot), real steady idle (650rpm) in or out of gear with or without AC. Runs great as well although I think I need to adjust the auto cable as it seems to shift up a little to soon and gets bogged down in low rpms.

A few things to note:
- The only real change was the temp sensor which is pipe threat while all the LR threads are UNF. This is the same threadsize, but I had to buy a tap to make it pipe so I could fit the sensor. I have a thermostate housing which as a fitting to relocate the original temp sensor for the gauge.
- The throttle cable was a bit of a fiddle I had a 4 barrel Holey carb before and the home made cables did not transfer over. I had to modify all my bracketery again
- The setup was so easy and running was instant
- The PCV valve I had installed turned out to let a lot of air through as I had to turn the butterfly valves amost entirely closed to get the idle down. I changed to a different valve and the settings are now a bit more standard. Unlike carburetors such a massive air leak is not a problem for the Sniper as it adjusts the mixture. This explains why I never got my Holley carb to work quite right at idle
- There is a strong injector pulse going through the fuel feed line and mounting that to anything on the body gives quite a loud knocking sound. I wrapped it in foam pipe insulation and tie wrapped it to the fender. All quiet now.
- Currently the Sniper does not control timing which is left conventional (weights and vacuum). It all works fine, but eventually I would like for all of this to be controlled through the sniper as it provides more low end torque. I bought my distributor from Simon BBC in the Uk and I need to find out if it has a magnetic pickup, which the Sniper should be able to read. I then need to lock any advance movement and index the rotor, after that it should all work.. will see.

I know my 84 is quite rare in the US (original import though), and I have not kept it spec (too many parts are missing), but I do recommend the Sniper EFI, it does make the car much more useable!
 

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wonderful update, for further technology take a look at "trigger wheels dot com".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Actually I am not getting much further with the Sniper ECU ignition control situation. I have not done anything yet but research so far indicates it will be 'experimental' at best. Car is running fine so it is really a case of "if it ain't broke, it needs more fixing", but at one point I am just going to try and connect my SimonBBC magnetic trigger to the Holley Sniper do all the modification to lock out mechanical and vacuum advance, index the rotor and just give it a shot. Worst case I need to buy a new distributor..

I looked at the trigger wheels, but it looks a little complicated to get a standard 36+1 trigger to deliver the 4 pulse per rotation which the Sniper EFI is expecting. I have found 4 pulse trigger wheels, but nothing that matches the Rover engine. In any case I would have to remove the main pulley etc etc..

There comes a point it is just too much fixing..

I did swap the vacuum advance from ported to non-ported to get the idle temperature down (lean idle mixture requires more advance timing than just static). Here in Houston with the heat and AC load, the British cooling is a little strained as it is. Idle is not as smooth now, but still perfectly acceptable..
 

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This is great. I'm struggling with my 1993 RRC 4.2 with wiring corrosion. I've cut out and rebuilt sections of wiring that has resistance to find that it's corroded internally. I'd like to sidestep this issue completely and replace the EFI with throttle body injection. This thread sounds very promising. I've sent Holley an inquiry. Anyone with additional suggestions for alternatives, I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Rhinob, as the OP I can give you plenty of direction here. In fact I have improved my Sniper EFI setup significantly since I wrote this post and it has been flawless since.

The good news is that you can buy all the required parts from Holley since the Rover V8 is based on the Buick 215 V8. Some mods are required but it is minimal. You can go full controlled timing reliably no need to string different systems to together.

I have also got the whole tuning under control and can share my configuration files with you no problem.

My main advise is NOT to go for the 4 barrel, instead opt for the smaller 2 barrel which is the same unit just two barrels. The 4 barrel struggles with air flow at idle and overrun. I find the 2 barrel is much more stable especially when the engine is cold and the mixture needs to be richer and atomisation is struggling a little with minimal airflow over 4 barrels

For the intake the recommendation is single plane, I believe there is a 2 barrel manifold for the Buick/Rover V8, but you can use an adaptor on a 4 barrel. Personally I had a manifold that came with the car (Offenhauser 7001DP) and just used it. At least it is low and height might become an issue if you are not careful.

Let me know if you need a Holley parts list I can dig up all the parts I purchased
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh hell, I might as well list it out for anyone interested in the swap:
  • Sniper 2300 - don't buy the master kit, the parts are not very good and cheaper to buy loose ($950)
  • Sniper EFI HyperSpark ingition coil ($39)
  • Sniper EFI HyperSpark ingition box ($205)
  • Sniper EFI HyperSpark distributor HyperSpark Distributor - Buick V8 215-350 ($250) slight modification required.
  • Set of ignition leads (MSD) ($70)
  • Fuel pump (I would recommend Bosch), filters and hoses ($70)
The above set gives to spark timing easy to install and as Holley intended (supported). So that adds up to ~$1600 +tax

I don't know the Range Rover Classic EFI fuel supply system - possibly you can just plumb in the feed and return, power it through the sniper (has a relay) and all is good.
 
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