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I have a 2006 Range Rover sport L320. I have had horrible experiences with the electronic parking brake system over the past few years. The first time the parking brake failed to disengage and locked up my passenger rear wheel, destroying everything. Had to replace hub, spindle, brakes... Over $2500. I chose not to have the parking brake or pad reinstalled into that hub and brake system. I also had the switch on the center console unclipped so no chance of reactivating it. I have gone about a year without any problems. Now I'm getting a very loud screeching sound from the EPB Actuator. I want to disconnect or completely remove the EPB actuators or at least cut all power to it so it no long works at all and makes no noise.

Can I safely remove the EPB actuator? Can I just unclipped the wiring on the actuator? Can I just pull a fuse to turn off the actuator?

What should I do and what will work? I live I vegas and have no hills. I've lived here the entire time I've had my L320 and I've never used or needed to use my parking brake. I don't ever plan on selling this L320 so I'm always looking for new ways to alter my L320 to work for me.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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799 Posts
The one thing many mechanics have told me about the electronic parking brake is that you have to use it all the time or it will seize..... much like a regular cable pull E-brake. The cable which comes prelubed dries out because the grease inside dries out and the cable seizes in the jacket. Use it or you lose it is the best way to describe it. So, if you never use it with the logic that you have no hills so therefore don't need to use it then of course it will seize up on you.

I live in an area with very few hills and no need to use the e brake but my wife and I always try to remember to use the E-brake on both our cars if anything, to save money. At first she didn't get it either but every E-brake cable replacement due to seized lines wil probably cost her 300+ dollars to fix. On my rover it will probably cost 1000+ to fix and when I explained it to her like that she agreed that it's more cost effective to just use it every time we park. Now it's second nature....

And besides, it's illegal to disconnect it. Well, here it is.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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141 Posts
I have been told the same thing. Use it or it will seize up.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I was told the opposite by my non-dealer Land Rover mechanic (who trained and worked at Land Rover). He said it is a common problem that Land Rover has never sought to resolve. The electronic parking brake actuator is nothing more than a winch pulling on the parking brake cable. He said the winch uses nylon plastic gears that eventually strip. He is not sure if eventually the gears strip on all RRS's, or if somehow manufacturing is related to it.

He recommends that his customers do not use the parking brake (!).

I park on incline, so I need to use the parking brake. I guess I just have to keep my fingers crossed. This definitely should have been a Land Rover recall issue, but they have ignored it. I had to fight Land Rover to get it repaired when it happened weeks after my warranty expired (despite my complaining about it multiple times during the warranty period). It is crazy that I am facing yet another $1900+ repair bill ($1100 parts, ~$800 labor) that will add absolutely no performance to my vehicle.
 

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Complete rubish. The issue stems from lack of use not over use. The cables seize in their housings so once activated after a long period they do not retract fully. Parking brakes must be cycled on a regular basis just as the low range selector must be cycled.
 

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2013 RS, 2017 FFRR
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4,482 Posts
I have been living w/o an EPB now for several years. After having 3 of these EPB actuators fail...it does seem to be the nylon gears which strip and cause a howling like a screeching cat. I used my EPB all the time, and it still failed on 3 occasions...I do have to agree, this design some seem to be puzzling, not sure why they would use nylon gears instead of metal ones...but oh well. Luckily it's flat here in Houston, so there's minimal need. If there were way to keep the system greased so the cables wouldn't seize...that would be great.

I wonder if the later model EPB's hold up better than the original ones. Did they do a redesign?
 

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I change my own brakes and have gone through the EPB procedure when doing so - one I bet not many mechanics outside of the dealer end up doing - I wonder how much this contributes to the issue.
 

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2013 RS, 2017 FFRR
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4,482 Posts
I change my own brakes and have gone through the EPB procedure when doing so - one I bet not many mechanics outside of the dealer end up doing - I wonder how much this contributes to the issue.
First and 2nd one failed under warranty...repaired at the dealer and Indy (ex dealer mechanic)...3rd one...I just said...screw it. Total waste of money for something with that failure rate.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Attn: PJPRO1, <br>  Did you do anything else besides disconnecting the cable to the parking brake module? Did the dash warning alarm and lights stop flashing and stop sounding?  Advise, and much appreciate your reply.
 

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Just had to do my actuator and PB shoes.. Replaced the rotors and pads while it was all apart. $2400 later, things are back in order. I still dont know if it is better to use it or not use it.. Seems to be conflicting recommendations on here.
 

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2013 RS, 2017 FFRR
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First and 2nd one failed under warranty...repaired at the dealer and Indy (ex dealer mechanic)...3rd one...I just said...screw it. Total waste of money for something with that failure rate.
Just removed the EPB actuator and disconnected all the cables, I do have a solid yellow warning light...
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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69 Posts
Dang ! I just had mine replaced by an indy. Cost me about $2,500, with some fluid changes at the same time. I sure hope this doesn't happen again. The shop had the car for a week. They said some thing about having to update their software and calibrate the darn thing. Supposedly they have done these before.
 
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